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Author Topic: Two Way Truss Rod  (Read 10004 times)

Offline mswhat298

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Two Way Truss Rod
« on: March 31, 2010, 01:29:05 PM »
So what do they mean by two way truss rod?

http://www.washburn.com/acoustics/wd7s-series/
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Offline Pike

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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2010, 01:33:24 PM »
« Last Edit: March 31, 2010, 01:34:31 PM by Pike »
 

Offline gregjones

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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2010, 09:16:35 PM »
Sawn scalloped bracing???[}:)]
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Offline WB-Nick

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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2010, 08:22:47 AM »
1/4 sawn scalloped bracing.  We actually have someone in the factory hand picking the bracing to make sure we are only using really straight grain 1/4 sawn braces.
 

Offline nogin007

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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2010, 08:52:44 AM »
So what do they mean by two way truss rod?

The truss rod can be adjusted both ways. Not only in one direction to offset string tension. But the other way to straighten the neck. I don't fully understand it, but a lot of the newer guitars have it.
 

Offline mswhat298

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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2010, 09:12:01 AM »
That's good to know.  I need a slight adjustment and am debating doing it myself.  I don't think i'm gonna mess with it for a while though.  The action and playability are a huge improvement over what I had, even right out of the box.
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Offline Remnar

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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2010, 10:11:52 AM »
Hey Nick, so the bracing is quartersawn?  The website says 1/4 inch sawn bracing, and until now, I didn't know if that was a mistake or that the bracing was 1/4 wide.  People might mistake 1/4 sawn as the same as spruce top and that is not what you want to advertise.  It would be much clearer to me if the website spelled it out as quartersawn.  



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Offline WB-Nick

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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2010, 10:54:16 AM »
I didn't notice the .  That would be confusing.  I'll fix it.

thanks
 

Offline mswhat298

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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2010, 01:38:31 PM »
Thanks for the link Pike, I think you had sent that to me a while back too.  Very informative but I'm a little confused as to which way to turn the 2-way truss to do what I need.

For example, if I lay my guitar down and hold the body still, then press down on the head slightly the neck bends back a tad and the strings up on the high frets (12, 14, etc) are closer to the fretboard.  That's what I want and my life will be complete.  (if only it were that simple...lol)  

So I'll loosen or tighten the truss rod?  I assume I'll loosen it by turning counter clockwise and it will push the rod out further, causing the neck to resist more.

Don't worry...I'll catch on eventually.

Mike W.
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Offline Pike

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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2010, 02:18:37 PM »
Here's what you're looking for Mike...

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/trussrods.htm


Tightening a truss rod forces the neck back and should reduce forward bow.  
Loosening a truss rod decreases resistance and compression to the back side of the neck allowing the strings tension to pull more relief (forward bow) into the neck.

Dual action truss rods These rods can add relief as well as straighten a neck. When turned counter clock wise the rod bends forward creating forward bow (relief) to the neck. These rods have small hex nuts that are welded to the end of the rod and unlike a tradition rod, the nut can not be removed.

Dual / Double truss rods Don't confuse these with dual action (meaning a rod that can be bent both directions). Dual or double truss rods are most commonly found on 12 string or bass guitars for additional strength and rigidity. They are two individual truss rods laid side by side in the neck.
 

Offline mswhat298

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« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2010, 04:34:23 PM »
Good stuff...thanks Pike.

Mike W.
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Offline gregjones

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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2010, 07:53:08 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by WB-Nick

I didn't notice the .  That would be confusing.  I'll fix it.

thanks



It's much better now.  I was wondering---sawn--like with a saw, as opposed to what, gnawed by a beaver.[:D][:D]
If it's got tuners, tits, or tires----it's gonna cost you.

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Offline mswhat298

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« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2010, 09:52:20 AM »
Now that I've had my new guitar a few days, the neck has settled down and now the adjustments needed are the total opposite of my first thoughts.

I'm getting a little buzz around the 1st fret or so.  The neck relief test in the article link above in this thread (1st fret and 14th fret fingered) shows there's no space at all between the string and the fret.  

So, from what I've read (and learned here) I actually need to tighten the rod a bit to increase neck bow.  That will provide more clearance and stop the buzzing.

For the high fret string action, shave a little off the bridge.

Sound like an accurate accessment or do y'all need more info?  

Thanks!

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Offline Rocket

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« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2010, 11:26:49 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by mswhat298

So, from what I've read (and learned here) I actually need to tighten the rod a bit to increase neck bow.  That will provide more clearance and stop the buzzing.

That's backwards.
First of all, adjusting neck tension is only to straighten the neck. The neck should always be absolutely flat across the frets... never a bow either way. Adjusting for string height should be done at the saddle.
Really!

Offline mcloud10

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« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2010, 11:58:32 AM »
What Rocket said.  Ditto.

You want to loosen the truss rod if there is no clearance.  This will relax the neck and allow string tension to pull the neck forward slightly.  The truss rod works against the tension of the strings.

Also, did I understand you correctly - you have high action in the high frets?

Mark

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