Recommend best fitting Graphtech saddle and nut for EA20

[psp742]

Hello Washburn forum members,

With my two Fenders [Standard SSS and Fat Strat], i have made upgrades to all the components, from pickguard (Fender OEM pg), electronic (Toneshaper for Stratocaster), pups ([Fender Mod shop SCNs set] and [Seymour Duncan - HB TB-4, STK S-5 = 2x]), tremolo (Bladerunner), nut (Graphtech TUSQ XL), straplock (Dunlop Straplok) and tuners (Schaller locking tuner).  Kept my 2 Squiers original: 96' MiK Standard Stratocaster ' torino red', 84' MiJ Bullet S-3 'black'

Now i want to upgrade my lone acoustic, upgrade the plastic bridge pins and end pins, saddles and nut.  Has anyone upgraded their acoustic guitar?
http://graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=21
i am thinking of getting the - TUSQ White Bridge Pins with Paua Dot (7pcs)

http://graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=103
TUSQ White End Pins with Paua Dot

http://graphtech.com/products.html?CategoryID=1
Acoustic saddle and nut - which ones to get?

thanks.

[YerDugliness]

Hello Washburn forum members,

Now i want to upgrade my lone acoustic, upgrade the plastic bridge pins and end pins, saddles and nut.  Has anyone upgraded their acoustic guitar?
http://graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=21
i am thinking of getting the - TUSQ White Bridge Pins with Paua Dot (7pcs)

http://graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=103
TUSQ White End Pins with Paua Dot

thanks.

Depending on how "hard" the TUSQ material is, bridge pins might not be the best use for the material.  We have had members who used bone for bridge pins, only to have the bridge split when environmental changes caused the wood to shrink  .

I'd suggest you consider a wood alternative....rosewood, ebony, any of the harder woods would work well and they would also react to changes in humidity, thereby diminishing the danger of the bridge splitting.

Cheers from.....

[psp742]

hello Dugly,

thanks for the reply...  i put 2 humidifier in my case (one external n one in sound hole) would placing the  humidifier in the case help prevent wood from expanding and shrinking?  in my Fender MiM standard strat i have Graphtech TUSQ nut and String saver saddles..  kept her in her case and never gig or play her much.

this is 1st time i owned an acoustic, and not very familiar with instruments proper care, i did get a humidifier from prev owner (diy humidifier), then i got a planet wave humidifier to compensate.  are mahoganey wood durable?

thanks again.

Ric,

ps:  my friend pointed out that there is some disparrity in the string height (neck is nice and low but slightly higher frets) should i let GC tech lower the bridge saddle?  or its not a good idea?

[evenkeel]

Opinion alert!!  When replacing bridge pins, nuts and saddles you will most likely see little to no difference in tone from the pins.  A bit more from a new nut.  It only really changes things on open strings.  A saddle upgrade makes the most difference.  As to what will work.  Pins are easy, just make sure what you order has the same diameter under the skirt as what you currently have.  A bit bigger is ok as you can sand it down.  Re: the saddle.  Measure the width and length of the slot in the bridge.  Again a bit bigger is fine as you can sand it to fit.  With saddles no matter what you buy you will need to sand the bottom to get the string action correct.  Here is a good tutorial re: saddles.

http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/Saddle/saddle01.html

Re: the nut.  Be careful what you do here.  You not only need to make sure you have the correct width and string spacing, but then you need to adjust the depth of the slots to get the action at the nut correct.  This requires special tools and some experience.  Getting the old nut off can also be a bit dicey. 

[psp742]

thanks evenkeel, i bought some Martin bridge pin with  end pin set and also got John Pearse Brass pins...  i am a little concern on doing the saddles...  i have the separated 7pc saddle, i read in your previous post that you used a dremel tool to make the chicklet saddles, any advice you can give will do.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54785347@N00/6994544849/in/photostream/

thanks again.

[evenkeel]

thanks evenkeel,   i have the separated 7pc saddle, i read in your previous post that you used a dremel tool to make the chicklet saddles, any advice you can give will do.

Just noticed this question.  Sorry for the delay getting back.

The angle of the peak at the top of each chicklet is a bit different.  This is for intonation purposes.  So, you need to make sure that you copy the high E chicklet and get it back in the right spot.  Same for the B, G, etc..  The chicklet can be taller, then you just need to sand the bottom to get the action correct.  If the angle is wrong the guitar willl not play in tune, particularly on the higher frets.