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Author Topic: D100 Questions  (Read 8534 times)

Offline H3LlIoN

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D100 Questions
« on: August 22, 2013, 02:25:05 PM »
So some time around 2000 or so, my mom bought me a guitar so I could learn to play.  It was my first, and I still have it.  I'm rather attached to it, and I've been working on it lately, upgrading here and there.  I know it's not a "great" guitar by most standards, but it's sentimental to me, and I love the way it sounds.  It's also the guitar I have, which always sounds better than the one I don't.   That being said, I have a few questions to which I was unable to find answers via the search function.  First, does any one happen to have specs on the D100?  I tried using the serial number to date the guitar (G00090XXX,) but I couldn't find a D100 listed in the year 2000 archive.  I have sent an info request to Washburn, but I'm trying to figure out the appropriate size for saddle/nut replacements, among other things.  The machine heads look exactly like Grover's, but don't have the name on them.  Any one know who manufactured the machine heads for these?  Are they just non-branded Grovers?  Also, does any one know if the D100 will fit this case?  Thank you!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130961822845?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Edit: For those researching D100's in the future, I just got this information back from Washburn:

"Your D100 was built in China in September, 2000.

It has a plastic nut and saddle, and the machine heads are of Chinese manufacture.

The nut is 43mm wide, but they don't have the rest of the dimensions in their archive.

The neck is solid mahogany, the back and sides are laminated mahogany, and the

fretboard and bridge are made of rosewood.  The top is laminated spruce."
« Last Edit: August 22, 2013, 03:11:55 PM by H3LlIoN »

Offline evenkeel

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2013, 04:29:08 PM »
Welcome to the forum.  The case should fit your D100 just fine, as will most dreadnaught size cases.

If you want to upgrade the guitar my first suggestion is to replace the plastic saddle with bone or one of the high tech synthetics.  Tusq, Micarta, etc..  You'll need to carefully measure the saddle you have and order a replacement.  Here are a couple of sources.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Acoustic_bridge_saddles.html

http://www.guitarsaddles.com/

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/saddles_acoustic.htm

No matter what you buy or from whom you will need to do some work yourself to get the saddle to fit and the action correct.  Here is some info for that.

http://frets.com/FretsPages/pagelist.html

I do not suggest you tackle replacing the nut.  That requires special tools and it does not have the effect on tone like the saddle does.
 

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2013, 07:29:56 PM »
Thanks for the response!  As I've never played with the nut or saddle on a guitar before, I was considering having the local music shop do it.  Any thoughts on that?  Is it flat out not worth doing the nut at all, even if they do it?  My current nut is plastic.  I was planning on Tusq. 

I've swapped the bridge pins to the tusq with paua inserts, and  love the way they look.  I still need to pick up the end pin, as it wasn't a set.  I've also been string swapping lately.  I was playing a set of light Earthwoods and really enjoyed them when they were still crisp, but sound definitely deteriorated quickly.  I'm currently playing cl Markley Alchemy's, and I've got my eyes on a set of gold Grover rotomatic 's, because the Chinese knockoffs on here keep coming out of tune and coming loose.  Been playing guitarbots lately.  Also, I need to pick up a capo and I'm considering a clip in pickup as well for when I want to crank it up a notch.

As to the case, I did some more research, and the reviews I read said the above mentioned case isn't very good quality on the inside.  The Musician's Gear Deluxe hard case was recommended to me for a tighter fit and more protection.  Thanks again for the response.

- H3

Offline evenkeel

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2013, 06:16:10 AM »
Replacing the saddle is a very easy project.  And, a new Tusq, bone or Micarta saddle will make a difference in tone.  Just follow the tutorial in the link in my earlier post.  But if you are not keen on the  DIY approach it's fairly inexpensive for a shop to do it.  A new nut will require nut files and a few other skills.  Plus, the improvement in tone only comes from open strings.  If you play a lot of first position "cowboy" chords then you'll hear some difference.  Bar chords, or fretted string finger picking the nut is "out of the loop" so to speak.

If you replace the tuners check carefully for hole alignment and size. 

« Last Edit: August 23, 2013, 01:04:37 PM by evenkeel »
 

Offline t.y.

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2013, 10:40:24 AM »
:)  I politely disagree on the case, as I have a few. They are very nice, and that is a cheap price for one. And they fit the Dread very well,  as that is what they were designed for.   Tom.   :)   P.S.  I have bought from this place before, and gave them a E-Bay 5 star feedback.  And I would pay the extra few dollars and go for bone nut and saddle.  :)  :)
« Last Edit: August 23, 2013, 10:43:30 AM by t.y. »

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2013, 08:45:22 PM »
:)  I politely disagree on the case, as I have a few. They are very nice, and that is a cheap price for one. And they fit the Dread very well,  as that is what they were designed for.   Tom.   :)   P.S.  I have bought from this place before, and gave them a E-Bay 5 star feedback.  And I would pay the extra few dollars and go for bone nut and saddle.  :)  :)

Good to know...the reviews I read when googling were contrary, but I really like the look of the Washburn case.  Is the padding sufficiently thick?  Also, if I'm understanding you, you're recommending bone over tusq, correct? 

DIY is fine, but I'm reluctant because I only have the one guitar, and nobody has measurements for the saddle, so I'd have to break it down, bust out the caliper and measure, then order, wait for delivery, then install and reassemble.  No playing in the meantime.  We'll see.  I'm watching CL for something with a solid top, so we'll see how that goes.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2013, 09:38:57 PM by H3LlIoN »

Offline evenkeel

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2013, 07:32:52 AM »
DIY is fine, but I'm reluctant because I only have the one guitar, and nobody has measurements for the saddle, so I'd have to break it down, bust out the caliper and measure, then order, wait for delivery, then install and reassemble.  No playing in the meantime.  We'll see.  I'm watching CL for something with a solid top, so we'll see how that goes.

You do not have to go thru all that.  Just measure the length of the saddle and the thickness.  You do not need to even remove the strings.  Height is not important because you are going to sand it down anyway.  If in doubt get one that is a bit thicker and longer.  You can always make it smaller and thinner by doing a bit of sanding.  When it arrives, then remove the existing saddle and use it as a template and your done.  If you want to lower the action a bit, just sand a bit more off the bottom.  re: bone vs Tusq most prefer bone, but it's a subjective largely personal decision. 
 

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2013, 10:14:18 AM »
Sweet, thanks!  I did a bit of reading and DIY sounds like fun, so I've decided on the unbleached bone saddle.  I've already picked out the blank.  Another question...my bridge is gapped on the back side, I'm assuming from the strain of the strings.  I don't know how long it's been doing this...I just noticed it this morning when I was cleaning it.  I have a few questions:  A)Is this thing simply glued on?  B)does that mean I can just glue, clamp and let it set up?  I did see one replacement tek on that site you posted, but it was quite a bit more extensive, involving repairing a warped top.  I'm hoping mine isn't that bad.  C)Is there any benefit to going with one of http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Acoustic_guitar_bridges.html, while I'm at it? 

Links to pics are here...I'm not direct posting because I didn't downsize the pics in order to show the gap.  Thanks for the help guys! 

http://i40.tinypic.com/167mofk.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/2qml1ko.jpg

Offline t.y.

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #8 on: August 24, 2013, 11:38:37 AM »
I have Nu Bone also,  on paper they all make different claims, I use bone. I " think"  it will last longer and sounds better.      Search WMJ21S on here and you  will find Y.D.'s post that shows good pics of the same style case. I will see if I can find it real quick. Beautiful case in side and out. I would try glue & clamp, as I would guess the warranty is out dated, but not sure.   Tom.  :)

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2013, 01:45:36 PM »
I have Nu Bone also,  on paper they all make different claims, I use bone. I " think"  it will last longer and sounds better.      Search WMJ21S on here and you  will find Y.D.'s post that shows good pics of the same style case. I will see if I can find it real quick. Beautiful case in side and out. I would try glue & clamp, as I would guess the warranty is out dated, but not sure.   Tom.  :)

Reading the warranty booklet that I still have, it looks as if it WOULD still be under warranty, except I have no idea where the receipt is and I didn't fill out the little card and mail it back in all those years ago.  C'est la vie.

Offline evenkeel

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #10 on: August 24, 2013, 01:47:38 PM »
The bridge is glued on.  In order to repair this properly you will need to remove the existing bridge, clean off all the old glue, scuff the surface of the guitar and the back side of the bridge, clean then clamp and reglue.  Do not try and inject glue into the gap.  You will also need some special clamps.  Check around the stew mac site and you'll find them.  You do not need or even want to buy a new bridge.  First issue would be covering the footprint of the old bridge and getting the holes to line up.  Much better to use the existing bridge.
 

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #11 on: August 24, 2013, 02:24:45 PM »
I called up my local music shop to inquire as to them fixing the bridge for me.  I asked a few questions to feel him out and, in response to what glue he uses, he said that he had talked to some luthiers and they recommended titebond as the most accessible, best holding product that's easy to come by.  Is this a red flag, or is titebond acceptable, and why?  Thanks

- H3
« Last Edit: August 24, 2013, 03:13:46 PM by H3LlIoN »

Offline evenkeel

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2013, 03:26:13 PM »
Yes titebond is acceptable, preferable in fact to many other glue products.  It adheres well, has a fairly long dwell time and is easy to work with.  I've used it for a bunch of repair projects.
 

Offline t.y.

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2013, 04:48:15 PM »

Offline H3LlIoN

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Re: D100 Questions
« Reply #14 on: August 24, 2013, 09:35:41 PM »
Thank you guys for the speedy responses, and for all the help.  I'm still up in the air about what to do for the case but, in the meantime, I ordered up a set of real Grover tuners to replace the Chinese ones that came installed.  I got the 102-18G's, which are the gold plated 18:1 rotomatics.  I believe them to be a direct replacement, but I'll post back with the official word once I install them.  The stock ones weren't bad, but they don't stay tuned and the nuts don't stay tight. 

Also, I ordered the unbleached bone saddle blank as mentioned earlier, and I'll be shaping and installing that myself as well.

Lastly, I have an appointment on Monday to drop off my D100 to the local music shop to have him re-bed the bridge and shape/install a bone nut.  I backed off the tuning to ease some of the strain on the bridge until then...I saw horror stories of the bridge twisting up the whole top of the guitar.  Hopefully it's all good.

I'm super excited, thank you guys for the help!

H3