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Author Topic: strings  (Read 3152 times)

Offline m0dest0

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strings
« on: February 12, 2014, 05:59:50 PM »
Hi, The strings of my Washburn D10 (electroacustic) got broken and now I see a lot of options to buy ... any advice? Thanks,

Offline t.y.

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Re: strings
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2014, 06:51:50 PM »
Welcome. Any good quality .11 or.12  will work fine.  It probably has .12 on it, but .11 would be a little easer to play if your new to guitar.  My choices would be Elixer  polywebs or Ernie Ball Earth Woods mediums.     I have owned lots of the D10S's. like 10 or more.  My faves are the Poly Webs.  Last a very long time and easy on the fingers. Don't buy cheap strings as you will wind up unhappy.  In my opinon the D10 series of guitar is the best bang for buck guitar there is.   Just my .02    Tom.  :)

Offline m0dest0

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Re: strings
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2014, 10:34:03 PM »
Welcome. Any good quality .11 or.12  will work fine.  It probably has .12 on it, but .11 would be a little easer to play if your new to guitar.  My choices would be Elixer  polywebs or Ernie Ball Earth Woods mediums.     I have owned lots of the D10S's. like 10 or more.  My faves are the Poly Webs.  Last a very long time and easy on the fingers. Don't buy cheap strings as you will wind up unhappy.  In my opinon the D10 series of guitar is the best bang for buck guitar there is.   Just my .02    Tom.  :)

Hi Tom,

I have asked for the polyweb ones but the dealer said that polyweb is a old stuff, the new is nanoweb. I entered to the elixir site and I found this:

What's the difference between NANOWEB® and POLYWEB® Coatings?
The difference between our coating "flavors" lies in the tone and feel. Elixir® Strings with NANOWEB Coating sound and feel more like traditional, uncoated strings. They are bright and lively, and the coating is so thin that you can barely tell it's there.
Elixir® Strings with POLYWEB Coating have a balanced tone. They sound like strings that have been perfectly "played in". They are comfortably smooth and help reduce finger squeak.
While our POLYWEB and NANOWEB Coatings differ in tone and feel, both feature patented protection and deliver extended tone life.

I guess that I will have to get them from ebay. :)

Thanks,
m0dest0.

Offline t.y.

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Re: strings
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2014, 12:15:52 PM »
Try them both and see what you think.   I have used both, but like the Poly.    I like the coating, which is why I buy them even though they cost twice of what regular strings cost. Also I had a set on my Rosewood and they play like new at going on two yrs old.  Scott Grove has a set on one of his guitars that is like 6 yrs old and still sound good. my guitars are climate controlled.  And wiped down every single time there played. Take care of your guitar and strings, and they will last a long time.   :)  :)  Tom. 

Offline m0dest0

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Re: strings
« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2014, 08:45:09 PM »
Hi Tom,

I was changing the last string when the pin got broken, any ideas how I could get it out?


Offline t.y.

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Re: strings
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2014, 11:41:00 PM »
That happened to me once. I reached in side with a tack hammer, a few light taps it came rite out. Also if you can reach inside and pull the string  end down, that might release the pressure.   There is a plastic  string winder tool that most guitar stores have, for about one dollar, it has a end on it just for those pins.   I put a rag under the tool, to keep from marring the  guitar finish.   A screw driver or pliers handle should work, as a tap handle.   Also I just take all strings off at once, and wipe down the fret board with damp rag and clean the frets with a  Scotch Brite pad.  Once a yr or two, you could lemon oil it if you think it is nessicery. But most of the time a very lightly damp wash rag will work just fine.  The number one thing to remember here is slow and easy and be gentle in the tapping, you don't want to break anything else, but this is a very easy fix, you will do fine. Also since you need a new pin, most stores or eBay have wood pins, not any real change in tone to my ear, but lots of beauty.  I buy Ebony and Abalone inlay bridge pins for about 13.00 for six of them.   On your black guitar they would look so nice.  Tom.  :)

Offline psp742

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Re: strings
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2014, 03:57:44 PM »
m0dest0,

looking at your picture, I'd day its your bridge pin that broke if your able to slowly push in the E string, you should be able to loosen the broken bridge pin..  you can replace all the bridge pins for brass, buffalo, walrus, or Graphtech TUSQ bridge pin..  while your at it, you can also upgrade the nut for TUSQ.  I didn't change the saddles on my EA20 because they were the chicklet type.
Force 84 ABT B-30 MR
Festival 90 EA20B
Billy T 94 Bk
Bantam 96 XB400 Bttrsctch, 98 XB500 Bk, 94 XB600 BkFlam
Maverick  98 BTM MR/MB, 97 BT3 Rd, BT-4 Tobacobrst, 97 BT-6 MtlFlkBk
01 RB2000 Bk
04 WG587 MR
X-series 05 X-33 Bk
Idol 05 WI36 Bk, 05 WI64 Bk
Comfort 14 WCG18CE Na
Wing 84 T-bird Tobacobrst

Offline Manitou

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Re: strings
« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2014, 09:50:41 AM »
Unfortunately I had this happen with a Washburn guitar as well. It happened with three different bridge pins.
I concluded that the pins were put in at the factory (in Indonesia) before the glue was completely dry on the bridge.
Like t.y said, I loosened all the strings and reached inside with a small block of steel, and being careful not to hit the inside braces I tapped out the broken (and non broken ) bridge pins and replaced with bone pins.