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Author Topic: Nitro or Poly  (Read 1234 times)

Offline firstrebel

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Nitro or Poly
« on: July 09, 2015, 12:13:44 PM »
Just got my third Lakeside LSJ743STSK in two weeks and at last got a good one - I hope. First had scratches on the back as it was a shop display model; the second had ugly scuff marks on the top and a split in the neck.

Not done anything with this yet but it does not look like it was taken out of the box as it still had all the soft protective wrapping. Just going to let it breath on the stand until tomorrow.

It has a few very minor light marks on the top which leads to my question. Are these acoustics nitro or poly finish. I suspect you will say poly like the Epi's.

Bob
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Offline philpm

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Re: Nitro or Poly
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2015, 05:24:54 PM »
I'm pretty sure that all new Washie acoustics are poly finish.  You generally have to pay a premium these days to get a nitro finish.
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Offline Tony Raven

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Re: Nitro or Poly
« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2015, 12:21:08 AM »
A thin finish is better than a thick finish. That's the Big Secret.

Lacquer -- "nitro" ::) -- was once common because, well, that was the common furniture finish.

Then manmade plastics became common. At one time, to speed up production of solid-body electric guitars, the bodieswere actually dipped in sealer (rather than sprayed).

Then sprayed with paint.

Then sprayed with clear poly.

The result was generally pretty, & being all but bulletproof would last a century. You have to really put insome effort to destroy the shine of a poly finish.

Since that era, most poly-finished guitars have a VERY thin coating, especially those with a "natural" finish that doesn't resemble 1/8" of Plexiglas.

Lacquer not only dulls easily -- it rubs off. It's softened by sweat. It never actually cures. It therefore likes to do interesting stuff like melt together with some other rubbers/plastics, like the padding on some guitar stands & capos. Putting lacquer on a guitar releases a gallon or two of highly volatile carcinogens into the environment; what stays behind will continue to "cook off" for years, stressing your liver & kidneys while you play.

For tone, a good oil finish would kick lacquer's butt. It's so thin as to be nonexistent, & doesn't fill up the wood's pores.

If I were to finish an acoustic for my own use, I'd use flake shellac in alcohol: it's super-thin. Okay, it's NOT durable, but it's uber-easy to re-dissolve a damaged area.
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