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Author Topic: HB32 Truss Rod  (Read 1389 times)

Offline HaganR

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HB32 Truss Rod
« on: February 17, 2016, 02:13:33 PM »
Hi,

I have a 10 year old HB32. When I tried to tighten the truss rod I found that it was extremely hard to turn, so I lossened it a bit. I found that it was extremely hard to loosen as well. Since the neck is responding I don't think that the truss rod is stripped.

I'd like to remove the truss rod to inspect and lubricate the threads. Is it safe to simply turn it counter-clockwise untill it comes out? Is the internal nut fixed so that once I remove the truss rod the nut will not dislocate? I'd hate to remove the truss rod and not be able to thread it back into the nut!

Thanks for any advice!
 

Offline Tony Raven

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Re: HB32 Truss Rod
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2016, 01:07:35 PM »
I can't remember for certain, but most trussrods I've worked with had either a threaded bar or a weld-nut at the far end, so it shouldn't rattle around loose.

However... well, imagine holding up a two-foot dowel by one end, & attempting to set the far end exactly on a 3mm dot on the wall.

Complicating this is that the trussrod will generally have a slight bow to it, so shoving it back into the slot might rake wood loose from the slot, & you'd also be trying to reseat the threads through sawdust.

Given that I'd lubricate the threads with cutting wax (like Tool Saver or CoolCut) or maybe Never-Seez, that stuff would make the push a little easier BUT hold onto more crud.

It apperas do-able, & you might get lucky on the first try. Then again, you might have to be VERY patient & make dozens of attempts... & in the end still need to bring it to a repair tech & spend a couple hundred $$$ to have it fixed.
M1SDL; XB-400 (natural), XB-400 (burg), XB-500 (teal); X-10, X-33; D46CESP, WCSD30SCE; BT-3, BT-4, BT-6, JB-80; WS-4; WI-66V; Lyon LCT24; OS Autoharps

resident troublemaker: http://forum.frugalguitarist.com/

Offline Tony Raven

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Re: HB32 Truss Rod
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2016, 04:46:46 PM »
Oh, heavens, I can be such an idiot...

Yes, I totally blanked, & forgot about the "modern" trussrod where the nut is threaded. I cannot determine if that's what Washburn used; if so, & it's not a fancy "two way" trussrod, then replacing just his nut will be MUCH easier than trying to push a whole rod back in.

In any case, use something on the threads to reduce steel-to-steel galling, also aptly called cold welding, where the two metal parts stick together at a molecular level. This is a common risk with two stainless-steel parts, but I've encountered it in other steels as well. A little proper protectant will make future adjustments MUCH easier & pretty much eliminate binding.
M1SDL; XB-400 (natural), XB-400 (burg), XB-500 (teal); X-10, X-33; D46CESP, WCSD30SCE; BT-3, BT-4, BT-6, JB-80; WS-4; WI-66V; Lyon LCT24; OS Autoharps

resident troublemaker: http://forum.frugalguitarist.com/