Do you know this guitar?

[tymbee]

Hello!

I'm afraid I know next to nothing about guitars but I have inherited a Washburn guitar and am trying to find out it's approximate value as I'd like to either sell or donate it. Inside the body of the guitar I can see the letters "D-62 SW" with a number below that "791756".

The guitar also has what appears to be two narrow cracks below the pegs that attach the strings, extending to the bottom of the guitar. Not sure how significant these might be in terms of overall value.

Any insights as to what I have with this guitar would be most appreciated!

[YerDugliness]

The D62SW is a highly regarded model...most likely produced by Yamaki in Japan, which has produced some very high quality guitars.

It is worth fixing, particularly since you recieved it at no cost. It might be cost-prohibitive to pay for both the guitar as well as the repairs.

Are you interested in keeping it?

Cheers!

Dugly

[tymbee]

Thanks for the info Dugly! Good to hear it has some value.

I've pretty much abandoned my aspirations to learn to play guitar at this point in my life so I think selling it to someone who would appreciate it and get some use from it is my best option.

[YerDugliness]

If you sell it in its current condition it would probably bring $250 +/- a bit.

The lines between the bridge and the "butt" of the guitar are  probably cracks in the soundboard. That is an unusual condition and the cause needs to be investigated. Do the lines coincide with the location of the pins that hold the strings in the bridge? If so, it is possible that the bridge pins may have been replaced with either larger pins or "harder" pins (replacing the factory pins with bone pins is not uncommon modification). Using too much pressure on bone pins has been known to "fracture" the bridge (particularly when humidity "swells" the wood the bridge is made of, resulting in a reduction of the diameter of the holes in the bridge, and, unfortunately, cracked bridges and soundboards).

I bought a D61SW  with a known cracked bridge, not at the pins, but at the saddle slot. That was a much easier repair and although it has been quite a few years ago, IIRC I paid in the range of $300-$325.

If I had to guess, the cost of repairing your guitar may well be significant...those cracks will need to be "cleated" to stop them from spreading.

My best suggestion is to take it to a luthier if you have one located locally and get an estimate on whatever is wrong and the cost to repair it. If it was just a cracked bridge it would be reasonable to replace it (<$100??). The cracks in the soundboard worry me...this may be beyond the skills of a shop technician.

Here's hoping it works out for you. Please let us know what you find out.

Cheers!!

Dugly

[tymbee]

Dugly,

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation! Since posting a musician friend of mine looked at the guitar and he thought that the cracks weren't that big a factor. I'll take some photos of what I'm seeing and post those here. Perhaps that will shed some more light what might be the cause/cure.

Thanks again.

If you sell it in its current condition it would probably bring $250 +/- a bit.

The lines between the bridge and the "butt" of the guitar are  probably cracks in the soundboard. That is an unusual condition and the cause needs to be investigated. Do the lines coincide with the location of the pins that hold the strings in the bridge? If so, it is possible that the bridge pins may have been replaced with either larger pins or "harder" pins (replacing the factory pins with bone pins is not uncommon modification). Using too much pressure on bone pins has been known to "fracture" the bridge (particularly when humidity "swells" the wood the bridge is made of, resulting in a reduction of the diameter of the holes in the bridge, and, unfortunately, cracked bridges and soundboards).

I bought a D61SW  with a known cracked bridge, not at the pins, but at the saddle slot. That was a much easier repair and although it has been quite a few years ago, IIRC I paid in the range of $300-$325.

If I had to guess, the cost of repairing your guitar may well be significant...those cracks will need to be "cleated" to stop them from spreading.

My best suggestion is to take it to a luthier if you have one located locally and get an estimate on whatever is wrong and the cost to repair it. If it was just a cracked bridge it would be reasonable to replace it (<$100??). The cracks in the soundboard worry me...this may be beyond the skills of a shop technician.

Here's hoping it works out for you. Please let us know what you find out.

Cheers!!

Dugly

[ship of fools]

usually only 1 cause for top to crack from other then dropping it lack of moisture sounds like it could use some cleats to stabilize the cracks and some moisture to prevent anymore drying out.
 these guitars are of great value to those that know them as fine Japanese made instruments but most will deduct a fair sum for the cracks which run around 20 - 25 per cleat so should run around a 100$ to fix the cracks then the guitar sells for around $250-400 with case

[tymbee]

Finally got around to taking some photos of the guitar. Do the images provide enough detail to get an estimate as to the cost of repair and/or the value "as is"? I'd really like to find it  a new home! 

usually only 1 cause for top to crack from other then dropping it lack of moisture sounds like it could use some cleats to stabilize the cracks and some moisture to prevent anymore drying out.
 these guitars are of great value to those that know them as fine Japanese made instruments but most will deduct a fair sum for the cracks which run around 20 - 25 per cleat so should run around a 100$ to fix the cracks then the guitar sells for around $250-400 with case

[Tony Raven]

Yes, definitely get yourself a decent humidifier insert ASAP. It will help stop further damage, & likely close the seams a little.

I don't like to diagnose a patient from a photo, but it looks like those splits have been around awhile, & in part might stem from hidden weaknesses in the wood (the mirror symmetry). The lighter-colored areas near the openings suggest that moisture has gotten in (whether condensation or sweat or cleaning liquids) and further dried out the wood. The darker stripes are probably some sort of contaminant liquid (hand oils or polish).

Though it does seem odd that the cracks run all the way to the butt, yet don't run out at all toward the soundhole.

Hopefully, it's never had a silicon "polish" used on it. If that damned stuff got onto bare wood, the contact area will be pretty much impossible to properly finish.

Though I've seen the Martin shop pull off some amazing restorations, I don't know this can ever again be 100% in looks. However, if the wood can be properly humidified, then maybe three cleats put in and the gaps properly filled and protected, that should restore most of the tone. Properly cared for, it could have another century of play in it. Still quite a pretty instrument.

Cost? Dunno; get quotes. Me, I'd rather cleat a top than try to repair edge separation. Stabilizing the cracks is MUCH easier than hiding them; up here, cleating & sealing would maybe be $200-$250 so long as you're more concerned with the sound than with making it look pretty.

[tymbee]

Thanks much for the input Tony. Really helps me narrow down my options.

Hopefully, it's never had a silicon "polish" used on it.

Pretty sure it hasn't. It was in storage for at least 10 years I believe and the former owner was pretty knowledgeable.

Stabilizing the cracks is MUCH easier than hiding them

I think that's the way to go-- stabilize the cracks. I believe I'll try and sell for around $200. Is the "Washburn Dealers Section" here an appropriate board to advertise-- IOW it's not for "dealers only"?