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Author Topic: Help Identifying my guitar  (Read 1521 times)

Offline Nitz

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Help Identifying my guitar
« on: December 13, 2017, 03:05:02 AM »
I have this Washburn guitar which I cant find on the Washburn site. Please help me identify this guitar. Inside the guitar it says EA16 but on the internet the EA16's are different. Mine looks way better. Attaching pics for help.

https://ibb.co/dtwUZb
https://ibb.co/fzLpZb
https://ibb.co/cWezZb
https://ibb.co/dOVHLG

Offline YerDugliness

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Re: Help Identifying my guitar
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2017, 02:54:40 PM »
Throughout the years Washburn has reused and revised the identifying model numbers for the Festival Series. I've tried to view your photos but the administrator for our computers routinely posts a response something to the effect of "your connection is not secure" and will not display the photos.

So...The Festival series is a very thin hollow-body A/E guitar with  a sharp cutaway. Yours may be a very unusual specimen because the cutaway on yours is a "soft" one. There is a special board on the forum for the Festival series, here is a link to it:

http://forums.washburn.com/index.php/board,28.0.html

If you want to find out about your EA16 I'd suggest you start your research there.

Washburn also has a large archive section, so if the search of the Festival Series board doesn't prove fruitful, I'd suggest you use the search function on the grey bar at the top of the screen and search for
"Washburn EA16". 

I managed to view your photos on my cell phone, and from the label inside the body it appears yours may have been produced in 2011, so it's a newer model. To narrow your search down a bit, you might try adding the date of production...2011. Here is what I came up with by doing just a Google search for "2011 Washburn EA16 Guitar":

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Washburn/EA16-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar-Natural-1274115030178.gc

My experience with the festival series is that because the body of the ones that I have played (which were different models than yours, they were much thinner) are rather shallow they sound rather "thin" when played as an acoustic, but when played plugged in to a PA or sound system they really shine. One of my favorite musicians says his plays better than any other guitar he's played when using a bottleneck slide. I can attest that it sounds great when played with a slide!!!

Hopefully this will provide some guidance for you to search further.

Cheers!

Dugly 8)



« Last Edit: December 15, 2017, 03:50:31 PM by YerDugliness »
YerDugliness,Esq./Post No Bills
Guitar Playin' FOOL, attempting to age disgracefully!
Washburns:WD32SW,D61SW,D62SW,C124SWK,
WMJ21S(2),WGO26SCE,WSJ60SKELITE,WG26S (2).
Other fine acoustics:Breedlove custom shop 000,Hippner #506 Hauser,Takamini 2005 LTD,Epi Masterbilt AJ500RC

Offline Nitz

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Re: Help Identifying my guitar
« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2017, 02:35:41 AM »
Wow! Thanks man for the insight. Helped a lot.

Offline Tony Raven

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Re: Help Identifying my guitar
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2017, 03:02:04 AM »
Per BlueBook, the EA16 was in two versions.

  • - single smooth cutaway thin unbound body, maple top/back/sides, 14/20-fret bound rosewood fingerboard, matching headstock with three-per-side chrome tuners, rosewood Butterfly bridge, B-Band electronics, available in Metallic Blue, Metallic Cherry, Pearl Black, or Pearl White finish, mfg. 2001-04.
  • - single smooth cutaway thin bound body, spruce top mahogany back and sides, mahogany neck, 14/20-fret bound rosewood fingerboard, three-per-side chrome tuners, rosewood Butterfly bridge, B-Band/WT-82 electronics, available in Metallic Blue (2005-08), Natural, Pearl Black, or Tobacco Sunburst finish, mfg. 2005-2010.
M1SDL; XB-400 (natural), XB-400 (burg), XB-500 (teal); X-10, X-33; D46CESP, WCSD30SCE; BT-3, BT-4, BT-6, JB-80; WS-4; WI-66V; Lyon LCT24; OS Autoharps

resident troublemaker: http://cheapguitars.boards.net/

Offline YerDugliness

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Re: Help Identifying my guitar
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2017, 08:24:57 AM »
Hey, Tony, here's another perfect example of how the production date codes in the serial numbers must represent the date of shipping to a dealer and not the date of manufacture. Bluebook says it was made only up until 2010...and yet the serial number definitely seems to indicate it's a 2011 model. The info fits...produced in 2010 and not sent out for sale until 2011, when the label inside the body of the guitar would have been printed and affixed into the guitar.

Cheers!

Doug
YerDugliness,Esq./Post No Bills
Guitar Playin' FOOL, attempting to age disgracefully!
Washburns:WD32SW,D61SW,D62SW,C124SWK,
WMJ21S(2),WGO26SCE,WSJ60SKELITE,WG26S (2).
Other fine acoustics:Breedlove custom shop 000,Hippner #506 Hauser,Takamini 2005 LTD,Epi Masterbilt AJ500RC

Offline Tony Raven

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Re: Help Identifying my guitar
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2017, 02:29:39 AM »
Oh, yah. The industry has got so loose with these dates that it's often beneficial to recall it is often more an estimate rather than some sort of "day of birth" or something.

Companies regular confuse "year of manufacture," initial ship date from factory, appearance in catalogue/pricelist, appearance at retail shops. Then the fans & BlueBooks of the world get involved & muddy things up more. ::)

So, it is quite possible a given guitar might be off by a year, depending on who's looking at which number.

(And I have my suspicions that some serial numbers in the late '90s were applied stateside when the guitars arrived without factory numbers. That would explain how the s/n on my BT-3 & BT-6 cannot in any way be interpreted to indicate date.)
M1SDL; XB-400 (natural), XB-400 (burg), XB-500 (teal); X-10, X-33; D46CESP, WCSD30SCE; BT-3, BT-4, BT-6, JB-80; WS-4; WI-66V; Lyon LCT24; OS Autoharps

resident troublemaker: http://cheapguitars.boards.net/