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Author Topic: Some questions on custom work for a t24  (Read 3864 times)

Offline Mahutma

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« on: October 19, 2005, 05:13:37 PM »
So about 2 years ago when the Taurus line still seemed pretty new (i picked mine up from music123 for 420$, since ive seen it drop to about 270-350, but thats aside the point.)

Right now, im actually rather disapointed in my tonal clarity. Dont get me wrong, im in love with this bass. Its playability is amazing.

but back to my main ideas.
Ive been drooling over warwicks since the first time i heard ryan martinie play, did some reasearch and found many many amazing artists playing these.
Myself, ive only played a Corvette Rockbass, bout the same level as the t24.
It was the tightest instrument with its strings, almost no buzz, but i noticed i didnt like their neck design.
Right now im trying to rip warwicks structure onto a taurus.

One other thing about my bass,
its not the standard taurus wood design, it is much lighter, and when compared to a force 5, it is identical in grain. Now the electronics are a different story, i broke one of my audio pots, and attempted to repair it myself. After completely butchering the wiring, i decided to take it to a pro.
This bass confused the crap out of him. What he told me was that basically, the wiring setup was made in a similar fashion to a les paul, where you choose which pickup takes priority, or you can equal them out. He said that it was set up that way, only without the actual switch. So its the equivalent of two people talking into one mic.

Back to my main idea. Sorry i keep drifting. My idea is to replace my current pickups (anyone got any good links to research what different pickups effect on basses, both active and passive?) bridge/nut

My reason for wanting the new bridge, is because i really dislike the buzz that the stock one gives. Its the same bridge that is on my old p-bass, which i had no end of problems with. My reasoning for wanting a replacement nut, is because i prefer a really low action, on my slap and pop it gives me much more of a bounce, almost like when you tune all your strings dcwn one step. The stock nut give me a lot of buz below the 5th fret. So i plan on getting on to raise the low end of the strings a bit.

So as you can see, im trying to gank the signature warwick growl/tone, and toss it onto this t24, which i find more playable than my limited experience with warwick.

my main question is, am i fool for wanting to customize this bass in this way, and where can i find more information about it. I plan on having this done all professionally, but the parts i want to get on my own. The pickups are the thing i know the least about, so any information there would be appreciated.
~Mahutma
 

Offline Le Basseur

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2005, 05:10:56 PM »
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma


Right now, im actually rather disapointed in my tonal clarity.

I'm not surprised at all about your complaints...if you play the stock T24,there are alot of things to do with it as upgrades.I think you hit the nail about your further issues on what to change on the T24!
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

Ive been drooling over warwicks since the first time i heard ryan martinie play, did some reasearch and found many many amazing artists playing these.
Myself, ive only played a Corvette Rockbass, bout the same level as the t24.
It was the tightest instrument with its strings, almost no buzz, but i noticed i didnt like their neck design.

I can understand your tendency to compare the Warwick Corvette Rockbass with the T24,even though I'm not on the same side of the barricade.Why?There's a general hype about Warwicks in the bassists' world,especially amongst the Americans.Of course,there are some outstanding Warwicks out there,but,let's be honest,not all of them deserve the surrounding aura.Me?I have played almost everything that moves from the Warwick's production,older and newer,and settled on a Streamer Stage I from 1991 wich I modified myself.
In other words,my oppinion is that there's NO comparison between Warwick Corvette and the T24...the later is far superior regarding the woodenry,IF handled,upgraded and tweaked properly.
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

One other thing about my bass,
its not the standard taurus wood design, it is much lighter, and when compared to a force 5, it is identical in grain. Now the electronics are a different story, i broke one of my audio pots, and attempted to repair it myself. After completely butchering the wiring, i decided to take it to a pro.
This bass confused the crap out of him. What he told me was that basically, the wiring setup was made in a similar fashion to a les paul, where you choose which pickup takes priority, or you can equal them out. He said that it was set up that way, only without the actual switch. So its the equivalent of two people talking into one mic.

From your description,your T24 might have non-stained wood.This should explain the similarities with the Force.
The stock T24's electronics are a story of it's own.It's obvious that no one at the Washburn thought seriously about this aspect,otherwise they'd might put a Jazz Bass-alike pot config (2 volumes + 1 tone) instead of the silly 1 volume + 1 tone on each PU.Of course,this Washburn solution is maybe the worst meaning that each tone is interacting with the opposite PU and viceversa,leading to some muddy output and a reduced tone capability.
If you want the electronics' problem solved,just put an Aguilar or Bartolini (US) or Noll (Europe) active preamp (you should have enough space in the back cavity)and you're done.Choosing what kind of an active preamp you want is not an easy decision because there are alot of possible configurations out there (2-way fixed,3-way fixed,3-way with parametric mids and so on).Just take a look at these brands'websites and everything should settle in your head in a short time,assuming that you know what you want sound-wise.
Just be sure that you'll have the active-passive switching option available because,frankly,there's no electronic that equals a pair of good passive J-style PU's!

quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

 My idea is to replace my current pickups (anyone got any good links to research what different pickups effect on basses, both active and passive?)

Take a look at the Fender J-style noiseless series or DiMarzio Ultrabass.I had them both and they're very good on a T24.
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

My reason for wanting the new bridge, is because i really dislike the buzz that the stock one gives.

I think something's wrong with your bridge....the T24's stock bridge isn't bad at all (even if it's some OEM brand),so I'm pretty sure you made some error there.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma
[brIts the same bridge that is on my old p-bass, which i had no end of problems with.

Again,I think you make a confusion...the Fender stock bridge is made from a bent piece,but the Washburn's is a massive piece made of brass...or I'm loosing your point?!?
Anyway,if you intend replacing the stock bridge,go for BadAss (Leo Quan),it's a direct replacement,no additional drilling needed).I have one mounted on my beloved T24 and I'm very happy with it!
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma
[br My reasoning for wanting a replacement nut, is because i prefer a really low action, on my slap and pop it gives me much more of a bounce, almost like when you tune all your strings dcwn one step. The stock nut give me a lot of buz below the 5th fret. So i plan on getting on to raise the low end of the strings a bit.

Of course...the T24's stock nut is a cheap piece of soft plastic,wrongly filed and improperly mounted.
Just go for a brass nut or a bone nut.If you're on a budget,you'd should try a urea nut (hard plastic).Just google a little with these terms,you'll find alot of stores selling them.
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

my main question is, am i fool for wanting to customize this bass in this way, and where can i find more information about it. I plan on having this done all professionally, but the parts i want to get on my own.

You're not a fool AT ALL...I have to repeat,the Washburn T24 is a high-potential bass BUT it has to be tweaked accordingly.This is the only reason I got mine and I'd reccomend it to everyone able to invest  a little further.
One last word:about the fret buzzing you mentioned,there are two issues here:
1.If you're not sure how to fit your action,let a pro doing it.You'd want to ask some questions in order to be able to do it yourself in the future!Believe me,once you understood the process,it's not a big deal.
2.DO NOT ignore a necessary and delicate operation:fret levelling/fret crowning.This MUST be made by a pro and you'll have to pay him for that,but this operation solves once for all all the potential fret problems.
Good luck!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline Le Basseur

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2005, 05:24:54 PM »
Sorry,I forgot the last thing:
If you really want to get the maximum from your T24,just get rid of that stupid finish on the bass.I did it after I noticed that my hands are feeling very unconfortable on the laquered neck.The original (cheap!) finish went off relatively easy (...again,a pro's job...DON'T try this at home,unless you know what are you doing!).
Once having the bare wood,I put on it 8 (eight) layers of pure Tung-oil and buffered it manually (OK,the oil's polymerisation period took two and a half months,but it's worthed).
Now,my T24 looks like a BIG $$$$ bass (Jerzy Drozd basses,anyone?)and feels like human skin....well,like a Warwick!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline Mahutma

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2005, 09:42:23 PM »
Thanks for the input. that was a big boost.

Only one thing ill argue you on, is that the bridge is the same, i can lay them side by side, doing so now, and if i could find my phone ide take a photo.
The only reason i can contest this, is because on my pbass i had a lot of jury rigging to do, due to a popped pickup screw and a missing saddly screw (nails at angles and soda can tabs solved those)
but i learned how to fiddle with the action height and saddly spacing on it, and the way to do it is identical to my taurus.

And my only comment to the warwick deal, is i agree but disagree.
the warwacks ive heard have a crazy tone, but are too heavy, and arent *comfortable* to play. Thats why im willing to drop the $$ into this.

So tung-oil finish on the neck? Sounds fancy. maybe when i buy another bass ill try that while this one can be changed all around.

Again, thanks for the input. A lot of help.
 

Offline Mahutma

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2005, 11:06:31 PM »
Okay. So im back after the research.

Ive spent the last 3 or 4 hours jumping through different parts and looking different things up.
One big question arises:
(feel free the luagh) but is there honestly much difference between a pre-amp and an active pickup setting?
The electronics look *almost* the same.

What im looking at now is just a rough idea ripped from one my favorite bassists perspectives.
Im going off ryan martinie (mudvayne) setup, he uses an EMG active pickup set, so im looking around, fiond the right ones, looks olike 140$ or so. So i smile to myself and say *next paycheck* then i remember you saying preamp, or on-board to be specific.
Now, a few years back i was in the local music shop, and this pretty cool bassist comes in with what looked like a synth bass. He basically had this thing wired in through this wierd little box (later to find out its an external preamp) and runs it into an amp, Now ive got my bass with me and just played this amp a few minutes ago, he lets me plug mine in, fiddles the settings some, and this amp sounds like a million bucks as opposed to the 250$ it cost.
Needless to say i was impressed, and he was 250$ poorer.

Now you mentioned a bartolini onboard preamp, ive been told many good things about bartonlini from my tech sided friends. But im a little confused. I do my music for the fun of it, i dont know technical music thoery, and i fudge my way through it when needed. Nor do i know much of the technical side, so im asking you for the help there. This onboard preamp seems to override the pots in place. So wherein the active EMG's i was looking at, had three pots, two volume and one master tone (takes care of washburns befuddled wiring for the t24)
but leaves me with either one useless pot, or an empty hole.
Now the preamp i looked at, has a 3 band Eq for use on active or passive pickups. My wondering here, does this EQ act the same as would my amps?
the only comparison i can make, is i just jury rigged my PC through my old 15 watt bass amp for better speakers, and it has the 3 band EQ, and my music player has the full 7-10 band graphic EQ, would this work in the same fashion, adjust tone before it hits the manipulation stage of proccessers/ amp. (yes ive never played a bass with an onboard preamp, and had select experience with active pickups)

So my main question is, if i pick up this preamp, would it be worth jumping the pickups? my plan is to jump the other hardware first, Bridge and Nut work, possible fret balancing (depends on funds), then set up this preamp.
Just looking towards more input and proving how much of a fool i really am =)
Thanks
 

Offline Le Basseur

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2005, 06:44:30 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

Only one thing ill argue you on, is that the bridge is the same, i can lay them side by side, doing so now, and if i could find my phone ide take a photo.
The only reason i can contest this, is because on my pbass i had a lot of jury rigging to do, due to a popped pickup screw and a missing saddly screw (nails at angles and soda can tabs solved those)
but i learned how to fiddle with the action height and saddly spacing on it, and the way to do it is identical to my taurus.

OK,my mistake for not taking you by word![:)]Therefore,I appologise.
Just for the record...you didn't tell what kind of bridge you have on your P-bass:the thin one or the more massive one?[;)]
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

And my only comment to the warwick deal, is i agree but disagree.
the warwacks ive heard have a crazy tone, but are too heavy, and arent *comfortable* to play.

You were lucky enough if you heard only good-sounding Warwicks...as I said already,I'm rather picky about this brand because I had reasons for that.But,again,it's a matter of taste![:)]
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

So tung-oil finish on the neck? Sounds fancy. maybe when i buy another bass ill try that while this one can be changed all around.


Not only on the neck,but the entire instrument!The feeling is totally different regarding the neck-hand contact.You might try some Tung-oil based products,like Danish oil or similar for a much shorter polymerisation time.I choose the raw Tung-oil because I couldn't find anything similar and because...I'm a purist![:D]
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

(feel free the luagh) but is there honestly much difference between a pre-amp and an active pickup setting?
The electronics look *almost* the same.

Why laughing?I thought we're here to share some good stuff and experience,not to mock each other![;)]
Yep,there's a difference between these two notions:
1.Active PU means that a specific PU is current-feeded from a DC source (battery) through a dedicated wire (NOT the usual coax you see on average PU's,the one carying the signal) because that PU is a low-impedance (small numbers of turns in the bobbin) device and needs to be boosted.There are several reasons for justifying such a low-impedance PU (better coupling with the following preamp stage,better S/N ratio,etc) but I'd not insist on these aspects for now.
2.The onboard preamp consists usually from a active EQ stage (Baxandall or any other type) wich lets you choose what frequency domain should be boosted.Because of the construction's characteristics,an onboard preamp is able to delivery a much more output signal to the following stage (the amp's preamp),meaning that it has more dynamic headroom,BUT also that when improperly used in conjunction with the amps's gain,you could easily ruin your sound by overloading the amp's input.That's why most modern amps have two inputs:one for older,passive PU's (nominal gain) and the other for active PU's (attenuated gain).
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

Im going off ryan martinie (mudvayne) setup, he uses an EMG active pickup set

Nothing wrong with that,but...well,just read on:
It's a general tendency to follow our idol's setups.The issue is that,in fact,no matter how close (or identical) we get to a given god's setup,there's very little chance to sound like him because of a number of variables:the epigon doesn't have the master's hands/playing technique/live-or-studio sound chain.Just remember how many bass players are haunting for the Jaco tone,investing BIG $$$ in a Jazz relic and the other mythical stuff...in fact,the best Jaco emulators I heard used some totally different stuff than the Master!Once again,THE TONE lays in your hands rather than in your equipement.
Regarding the EMG stuff,I must confess that I totally hate it (no pun intended!) because it's the most synthetic,dry and lifeless PUs I ever heard!Again,it's a taste thing,but I'd say:don't kill your T24 with an EMG!
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

Now, a few years back i was in the local music shop, and this pretty cool bassist comes in with what looked like a synth bass. He basically had this thing wired in through this wierd little box (later to find out its an external preamp) and runs it into an amp, Now ive got my bass with me and just played this amp a few minutes ago, he lets me plug mine in, fiddles the settings some, and this amp sounds like a million bucks as opposed to the 250$ it cost.
Needless to say i was impressed, and he was 250$ poorer.

I'm not sure what you're talking about here...maybe it was something like a SansAmp box or similar?Anyway,this is another side of the story,because we're talking effects here,even if it's maybe only an EQ thing what you tried.Anyway,until I don't know for sure what was it,I'd rather not comment further.For now,regarding your issues,I'd stick  to the bass' tweaking itself,because depending on your signal source qualities,you'll easily shape/enhance further the sound.The ol' saying s**t in,s**t out applies to electric basses too![:D]
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma


So wherein the active EMG's i was looking at, had three pots, two volume and one master tone (takes care of washburns befuddled wiring for the t24)
but leaves me with either one useless pot, or an empty hole.
Now the preamp i looked at, has a 3 band Eq for use on active or passive pickups. My wondering here, does this EQ act the same as would my amps?

As I said,there's a wide configuration choice out there.Some brands offer less,some more...it's up to your needs and your budget what to choose.Of course,with the T24,I'd stick to the 4-hole config.Please take a look at the Noll preamps:
http://www.noll-electronic.de/sites_e/d_home.html
As you can see,they offer a wide variety of preamps in a more wider pot config variety.Just choose the preamp model you like most and then choose a 4-button wiring version.Also,please note that in some cases you deal with so-called stacked pots (two coax pots on the same axis,having two independent buttons).
About the pots issue,I'd order a complete preamp,pots INCLUDED,because the T24 original pots most surely don't match (Ohm values-wise) with the preamps'.Besides,if you have limited electronic experience,why bother with some headache soldering of the preamp's wires?
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma


Now the preamp i looked at, has a 3 band Eq for use on active or passive pickups. My wondering here, does this EQ act the same as would my amps?
the only comparison i can make, is i just jury rigged my PC through my old 15 watt bass amp for better speakers, and it has the 3 band EQ, and my music player has the full 7-10 band graphic EQ, would this work in the same fashion, adjust tone before it hits the manipulation stage of proccessers/ amp.

Yep,you got it...it's (almost) the same thing.That's why I said that wouldn't be bad if you'd choose an active preamp with the passive switch option (in the passive mode,the EQ is taken out from the signal chain,thus leaving bare signal from PU's).
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

 if i pick up this preamp, would it be worth jumping the pickups? my plan is to jump the other hardware first, Bridge and Nut work, possible fret balancing (depends on funds), then set up this preamp.

Again,it's OK that way.First upgrade the mechanics of your bass,and then the electric part.This way,you'll be able to hear every improvement you make and decide if a given mod leads to a good voicing or not.But,again,expect that the biggest improvement should be when you'll change the PU's and add the active preamp.
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline Mahutma

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2005, 12:03:26 PM »
Thanks again for the insight.
Right now im still sterring towards an EMG pickup, but im leaning towards passive, mainly because its the best one that i can compare a sound to. (my style steals a lot of different techniques from claypool and martinie, but with a rythm more based around rock, dont have the *funk* groove down yet.)
So the EMG's look most plausible to me.
im gonna go through the noll stuff and see what thats about.
Oh one other thing i forgot to mention, these preamps come with their own pots, these effectively replace all the old ones right?
IE, the EMG J's im looking at, have a 3 pot config. two volume, one tone. and the bartonlini i was looking at has a 3 band, 4 pot, i beleive it was blend - volume - meddle - then a bass/trable stacked. could be wrong on that-
but if i were to purchase both, i would basically chuck the 3 pickup pots, vol x2 and tone out the window, and just use the preamps set up, or would i be drilling more holes?
Thanks
 

Offline Le Basseur

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2005, 12:18:55 PM »
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma


Oh one other thing i forgot to mention, these preamps come with their own pots, these effectively replace all the old ones right?

Yep,that's right.As I said already,the stock T24 pots don't have,most probably,the active preamp's required values.Besides,these stock pots are of a doubtful quality as opposed to any pot wich comes with a branded active preamp.The Big Boys don't take the risk by installing any cheap component in their configs!
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

 the bartonlini i was looking at has a 3 band, 4 pot, i beleive it was blend - volume - meddle - then a bass/trable stacked.

Therefore,go with Bartolini,it has the 4-pot config as opposed to the EMG's 3-pot.
quote:
Originally posted by Mahutma

but if i were to purchase both, i would basically chuck the 3 pickup pots, vol x2 and tone out the window, and just use the preamps set up, or would i be drilling more holes?


I'm not sure I get your point here...you want to buy the EMG AND the Bartolini for a single instrument?!?
Anyway...just get the Bartolini wich has factory-wired pots,then get out the whole T24's stock mess (pots,wiring,all except the PU's wires and ground wire coming from the bridge) from the back cavity and,following the Bartolini's installation guide,mount the Bartolini preamp.No need to drill anything.It cannot be simpler than this,really!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
« Last Edit: October 21, 2005, 12:24:41 PM by Le Basseur »
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline Mahutma

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2005, 01:22:22 PM »
quote:

I'm not sure I get your point here...you want to buy the EMG AND the Bartolini for a single instrument?!?
Anyway...just get the Bartolini wich has factory-wired pots,then get out the whole T24's stock mess (pots,wiring,all except the PU's wires and ground wire coming from the bridge) from the back cavity and,following the Bartolini's installation guide,mount the Bartolini preamp.No need to drill anything.It cannot be simpler than this,really!
Regards,




what i meant is if i got the pickup setup, which most seem to come with their own pot setup, and the preamp. IE replacing my pickups and adding the preamp to the bass.
 

Offline Russell Sova

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2005, 06:50:55 AM »
My T24 had the string buzz out of the factory so I just adjusted the bridge screws. I've found leaving the tone all the way fat on both pickups with my Eden amp gives the best tone. With flatwounds I can get as close to an upright tone as any bass I've had.

As far as the neck is concerned, I've played mine one to two hours per day for two years without a problem. If your hands stick, try a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil on your hands,really, this will let you glide around on that Jerzy Drodz like neck. By the way this bass has 21mm at the first fret and 23mm at the 12th fret. The Jerzy Drodz are 19mm all the way, but since most of us won't be playing one of those this is good enough, right?
no frets?

Offline Le Basseur

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2005, 04:51:53 PM »
quote:
Originally posted by Russell Sova

My T24 had the string buzz out of the factory so I just adjusted the bridge screws.

OK,I agree,this is the first-aid setup in order to make a (cheap) instrument playable.However,please note that most bass players want a lower action,especially those who play slapping,tapping or have a soft touch.For these guys (me included),it's a pain in the b*tt when playing on higher action.The fret levelling issue I mentioned is a must when someone gets a cheap bass (as is the T24) wich,obviously,isn't made with the greatest attention to details.All the T24s,T25's and Force 4 and 5 basses I saw had the same factory flaw regarding the frets:they're NOT equally put in place,height-wise (poor manufacturing process or a lack of skill of the fret guy),therefore they had ALL to have the truss rods adjusted and the frets levelled.
The second issue is that if the action is too high (as it might be if you just raise your bridge saddles),the intonation will surely suffer.
quote:
Originally posted by Russell Sova

 If your hands stick, try a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil on your hands

This is the last thing I'd put to my hands because in the end I'd finish with a hand full of gunk...the point is that I don't need a slippery left hand,but a clean one on a natural-feeling neck.I don't have nothing against laquered necks,but there are some good finishes and some bad ones.Unfortunately,the factory T24 lacquer is a bad one,that's why I had to change it.Otherwise,do you think I'd invest so much work in an image issue?Not my style...
quote:
Originally posted by Russell Sova

 Jerzy Drodz like neck.

It's Jerzy Drozd.Polish (from Poland) luthier living and working in Barcelona,Spain.There was an issue about him and his basses when someone from Washburn came and took some pics of a Drozd Prodigy early model at a NAMM some years ago.After a short period of time,Washburn hit the market with the Taurus models.Jerzy Drozd had no patent on his instruments at that time,so,being just an independent luthier,couldn't take any law measure against Washburn.
So,practically,we're now playing some Drozd clones,right?
quote:
Originally posted by Russell Sova

By the way this bass has 21mm at the first fret and 23mm at the 12th fret. The Jerzy Drodz are 19mm all the way, but since most of us won't be playing one of those this is good enough, right?


I'm not sure I get your point here...first,there's no such thing as parallel strings,a bass having the same string distance from the nut and down to the bridge,as you said about Drozd basses.The string distance goes from narrow to wide on most stringed instruments,bass guitars included.
The string distance on the bridge is what counts the most.It's a matter of personal choice what distance someone likes at the bridge.Some with small hands favour even 16 mm,the average taste is around 18-19 mm.Therefore,I don't see a problem if someone decides to change the stock bridge with another one that suits better in terms of sound AND geometry.

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
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You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline Russell Sova

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Some questions on custom work for a t24
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2005, 07:16:36 AM »
The 19mm and the 21mm, etc., are neck depths.

No, the 3-in-1 oil does not turn to gunk on your bass neck. It just keeps slidin' away. I put the sticky hands question up on the Harmony Central forum and got the 3-in-1 oil answer from many people including one of the mods. It really works. A little oil, like a drop or two, is all you need.

My T24 strings are quite close to the neck. It does not have high action, it's just right. The frets are all the same height. Maybe I got a lemon[:D]. Adjusting the bridge screws is just what they're for! A fine tuning. Sorry your bass needs so much, but mine is perfect.
no frets?