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Author Topic: nut replacement on a taurus t25  (Read 4740 times)

Offline wundoc

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« on: March 09, 2006, 02:42:58 AM »
2 days ago i received my used taurus t 25. it is in good shape, the neck is, as far i can see, straight.
i read a lot of tweaking on this bass, and first of all i would like to replace the nut. here´s my question:
How can the nut be taken out?
does it have to be cut out, or it ist just remvovable by pulling it out?
bevor i am going to destroy something, i better ask first.
thanks

 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2006, 04:32:08 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by wundoc

How can the nut be taken out?
does it have to be cut out, or it ist just remvovable by pulling it out?


The nut is glued on place so it cannot be just pulled out (it has to be glued because when the strings are strung,an unglued nut would slip away).
The nut removal is rather simple:just use a sharp blade (cutter),as used for carpet cuttings.It's reccomended that the blade has a certain thickness (not the thinner ones,they might bend and crack and,besides,a thicker blade gives a more precise cut).
Open the cutter's blade a few centimetres ,according to the entire nut lenght,position the blade horizontally (directed from the headstock to the fingerboard,with the sharp edge positioned exactly where the nut meets the wood) and apply an EQUAL pressure...DO NOT try to begin from the nut's end,the cutter may slip and you might damage the wood!
As I said...it's rather a simple operation but you have to have a firm hand and good wood feeling...stop when you feel the blade entering in the wood,get it out and correct the cutting angle.If you go slowly,the nut should pop out when the blade reaches 1/3 or 1/2 of the overall cutting depth.After the nut is removed,you'll have to clean the remaining glue on both surfaces where the nut was placed (on the neck and fingerboard).Use a 150~220 grit piece of sanding paper and lightly,carefully,remove the remained glue until you reach the wood surface(s).You should get a clean,plain surface on both sides (this is necessary for a better contact when installing the new nut).
I suggest beginning this operation ONLY if you have the new nut on hand...removing the old nut/preparing the surfaces/installing the new nut should take no more than 45 minutes-1 hour tops.
For the Taurus,I reccomend a metal nut (brass is best,aluminium is another good option) instead of plastic/graphite/uhrea types.Be sure that the new nut fits perfectly on the empty place.If not,you'll have to adjust it BEFORE glueing it on the bass.The new nut can be glued with any instant glue (cyanoacrylate-based) you have on hand (Super Attack comes in mind).Apply SPARINGLY the glue(a very thin layer on each side that comes in contact with the new nut;put the glue on the neck,NOT on the nut!)and press the nut firmly in place for a minute.
Done![:)]
After that,be prepared for an eventual string slots' filing:if the strings are too high,you'll have to lower them by using an appropriate file (like those used by watchmakers or hobbists).
HTH!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline wundoc

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2006, 12:47:32 AM »
@ le basseur

thanks a lot for your helpful advice.  there is one more question, and i hope this will do it:
i realised, compared to my yamaha bb 1200 the the neck of the taurus is too straight. this causes fret buzzing on nearly every fret. i raised the bridge already, but this did not solve the problem. so i think i have to adjust the trussrod so that the neck gtes a littel upbow. any tricks or hints to do so?

again thanks a lot to all out there
best wishes from the lake of constance, germany.
 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2006, 09:13:23 AM »
Here are two great links:
http://www.fender.com/support/setup/basssetup.php
http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html
Take your time,don't rush!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline diceman

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2006, 11:37:31 AM »
hey wundoc ... how did the nut replacement go ?
i was thinking of making a new nut and a new bridge for my t24 out of solid polished copper ... i just think the copper would look pretty cool ... anyways ...rock on
 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2006, 02:14:06 PM »
Hey Diceman,
If you want a new bridge,look for a BadAss II (direct replacement,no additional holes necessary).Or any other brand bridge out there.Making a bridge might be a PITA unless you have the required machinery and skills.
Regarding the nut,no copper please! (as well as for the bridge).
I'm not convinced at all about copper's resonant properties;besides,copper oxidates pretty fast and the initial shine might not be preserved...except maybe a thin layer of sprayed nitro laquer or whatever.The biggest problem remains,though,the oxidation INSIDE the nut's string slots.This might kill your sound(strings) without knowing what really happened.
HTH!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline wundoc

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2006, 01:24:35 PM »
@ diceman
that´s what i bought:
http://cgi.ebay.de/Brass-guitar-top-nut_W0QQitemZ7402241014QQcategoryZ42455QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

so far the original nut is still in place, i will replace it when the new one arrives.

also i bought a noll preamp an an e.t.s bridge.
http://www.ets-hardware.com/
after all tweaks are done i will report again.
thanks again to the forum and esp. to le basseur for his helpful advice.

gerd
 

Offline diceman

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2006, 02:45:14 AM »
hey wundoc ... i made my copper nut for my t24 .. i also made a brass nut ... i like the copper one better .. it looks pretty sweet and sounds good too

i basically just coppied the washburn nut ... i didn,t glue it down yet though

i,m going to make a new one with the stringsspaced about .030 closer to each other which will bring the strings in a bit more from the edge of the neck , so that the strings are the same distance from the edge all the way up the neck ... i also made a copper tension rod cover ... it looks sweet too .... soon as i get a picture of it  , i,ll put it on here

what a diferance in the sound .. lot more twangy now

rock on
 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2006, 10:45:20 AM »
Hey Diceman,
Glad to hear about your improvements![:)]
Can you upload somewhere some pics your the copper nut,or share some audio samples?
In the meantime:it's OK to tighten a little the spaces between the strings...maybe you'll need something like this:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Measuring_tools/1/String_Spacing_Rule.html
HTH!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline diceman

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2006, 03:02:05 AM »
as soon as i get some pictures and install y new camaras software...i,ll post some pictures

i,ll try to get a good audio sample for yo if i can

copper is still harder than soft plastic....and looks real cool

just some advice...don,t ever make a copper nut...it sucks...lol

i just wanna be the only one with a copper nut ..... its a big hit with the girls

bassuer...just for your info...i,m a tool and die maker

a little lemon pledge...or some armour all will keep it nice ... i did plan to give it a clear coat..but since i,m going to make a new one....i,ll wait till i make the new one...till i claer coat it and glue it to the neck

i just like the look of copper..you see brass everywere....you don,t see copper...i wanted something unique....so i made it...looks awsome...sounds pretty damn good too

i,ll post the stuff as soon as i can
 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #10 on: April 09, 2006, 09:49:20 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by diceman


i just wanna be the only one with a copper nut ..... its a big hit with the girls


OK,got it![:D][:D][:D]

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline diceman

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2006, 04:58:41 AM »
ok ... i got my new camera working ... you can check out a few pics of my copper nut on my website  www.southwestcustoms.ca
 

Offline Le Basseur

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2006, 07:06:55 AM »
Hey Diceman,
Nice job![8D]
That polished copper looks awesome!(...would you mind if I borrow your idea?....not for commercial issues and NOT for stealing your female admirers![:D]).
On a serious note,I'll make a copper nut myself,just to be able to compare it sound-wise with any other known material for that issue (brass,aluminium,bone,uhrea,graphite composite,etc).
In a past thread,you mentioned something about twangy sounding.
I'm not sure what you meant by this but if it's an undesired effect when playing an empty string (either G,D,A or E),this twang comes from that string slot's depth.As I see in your pics,the strings are well sunken in their slots (presuming that you copied the original soft-plastic Wasburn nut,it's a bad idea even in this aspect).If so,you'll have to sand/polish down the upper nut's edge in order to get the strings out from the slots.A luthier's rule of thumb is that a string should be sunken about two-thirds of it's diameter.Of course,there are exceptions...
HTH!
Regards,

You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb
I can't give you any brains,but I can give you a DIPLOMA!
(Wizard of Oz talking to the Tin Man)
You're smart enough not to consider me a fool
Ol' Romanian proverb

Offline diceman

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nut replacement on a taurus t25
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2006, 02:17:23 PM »
hey ... if you want to try one out ... go ahead ... make one up

actually , at first , the strings did only go 3/4 of the way into the nut ... but after filing in the slots to the proper string hieght , thats where they are now

i,m still working on it ... its not even glued on yet ... i only have this one bass ... and need it for our saturday jams ... so no glue till its done

i,m seriously thinking about making a polished copper bridge and knobs to match now ... knobs wil need a clear coat for sure .. and the knurling on the knobs will be hell on my buffing wheel

but .... it will look cool

rock on