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Topics - YerDugliness

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1
I get a daily email from one of the online music stores and I was interested in buying a WG26S, so I went to their website to check their merchandise. I found the WG26S for a very nice price...and then I happened to look further and found a very unusual Washburn that excited me even more...a Southern Jumbo model!

Upon further investigation it became clear to me that I had to have one! My very favorite steel string guitar (not a Washburn) is a slope-shouldered "Southern Jumbo" size instrument in my favorite tonewood combination, cedar/rosewood. This WSJ60SKELITE has a solid cedar soundboard and laminate "cocobolo" sides and back. Turns out cocobolo is a very hard species of rosewood...after I found that out (it sure LOOKED like rosewood!) the GAS was too hard to resist. I have been looking for a decent camping guitar and the price was low enough (Washburn hardshell case included) that the decision was easy to make!

There WILL be a WG26S in "the crew" in a month. This SJ was just too attractively priced to pass up now...and I have VERY RARELY seen Washburn "slope shouldered" SJ models for sale.

Looks like I will need more guitar stands soon!!

Cheers!

Dugly 8)

2
OK...so an awful lot of traffic on the forum is Washburn owners wanting to know when their guitar was made (among other things, usually, like how much is it worth, etc.)

I thought perhaps a brief introduction to the manner in which Washburn serial numbers and model numbers can be decoded might help some new members figure this out for themselves, so I "borrowed" this next little bit of information (that is a nice way of saying I "stole it") from a recent post by one of our most helpful members, Evenkeel.

Here is what he had to say (most of the information that follows applies to acoustic guitars, electric guitars are quite another issue, altogether):

"Serial # info.
Either the first 2 digits, or the first digit, are typically used to identify the year of manufacture.
For example, 8901827 indicate the instrument was made in 1989, 1988, or 1998. Instruments with serial numbers that have 5 or more characters are from the late 1980's-2000's
Instruments with serial numbers that have 5 characters or less are typically from the 1980's.
Instruments with serial numbers that have 4 characters are from the 1970's and early 1980's.
For instruments produced after 2010, usually the first 4 digits can indicate the year of manufacture."


This should be enough to provide a good start. As for value...well, as another of our erstwhile members says, it's worth as much as you can get someone to pay on the day you sell it. However, for those who would like to know a ball-park figure, there is an item known as a "Blue Book" which lists prices when new and also prices for used equipment depending on condition. A lot of the industry shops that handle used gear (trade-ins on new stuff, that sort of thing) use this book to give them some vague idea of a value range. For that information, unless you have a subscription to the online "Blue Book" (or a "Blue Book" of your own), your best bet is to post a question in the appropriate forum...electric, acoustic, bluegrass...etc.

Furthermore, a suggestion that you use the search function...the link is on the grey bar at the top of the page, between "Help" and "Profile". Click on "Search" and you'll get an empty "field"...when I do a search I start with the word "Washburn" (after all, if you're here you're hoping to find out something about your Washburn instrument), followed by a model number. Once you have that information in the search field, click on search and you may be surprised just how many posts and threads there are in the forum.

Finally, a bit of guidance regarding model designations:

Most models are designated with a "body style", a model number, and some additional letters to give additional information about the instrument. I'll start with a few of mine:

My first Washburn was a WD32S, so here's what that means:
The WD stands for "Washburn Dreadnought" (other models dispensed with the "W" and the model numbers just started with the "D")...the dreadnought design was brought about by the advent of orchestras, where most of the instruments would drown out the volume produced by the then popular "parlor" guitars. The dreadnought was a large design guitar with squared off shoulders on the "upper bout"...its size gave it greater volume.
 
The "32" is the model number...generally, the higher the number, the better quality the guitar. For example, Washburn use to have a custom shop from which you could order very high quality handmade acoustic guitars...numbers like D62SW, D64SW, D70SW, D72SW...etc. Generally, as you went up on the number designation the price of the guitar increased, based on certain factors like tonewoods, build difficulty, etc.

The "S" designation indicates that the guitar had a solid wood soundboard, which is much more desirable than a "laminate" soundboard for various reasons related to tonal improvement that occurs as the wood ages.

So...my WD32S was a mid-level dreadnought with a solid wood soundboard. The backs and sides were laminated products...believe me, if they are Solid Wood it is a big enough deal that Washburn wants you to know about it, so a guitar with "SW" following the model number is usually (almost always) made of all solid-woods. All solid wood guitars are sort of the top-of-the-heap regarding quality, but they do have some issues that cause them to require more care than the models with just solid soundboards or all laminate construction.

So...other "abbreviations" occur on a pretty consistent basis, too...for example:
My C124SWK...the "C" stands for "classical guitar", the 124 indicates that it is pretty high in the product line, and the SW indicates that the guitar is constructed of all solid woods. That's all good information, but what does the "K" mean? It means that the guitar was shipped to the dealer in a dedicated case...so why not just use "C" instead of "K"? Read on:

One other common "suffix" to the model designation is "CE", which stands for "Cutaway Electric". Most "juiced" guitars (guitars with onboard electronics for plugging into amplifiers and PA systems) seem to come with a cutaway on the lower upper bout so that the player can reach the highest pitched notes more easily. These cutaways can have very sharp designs (like the Festival Series of guitars) or softer cutaway designs, without sharp points like the Festival series...but they all have both the cutaway as well as electronics. My WGOSCE, for example, is a Grand Orchestra model with a solid wood soundboard and a cutaway with electronic pickup. So, since the "C" was already in use to designate a "cutaway" bodied guitar, Washburn just chose to use "K" to mean it came with a case.

There are other "abbreviations", some of which designate "paint' color (B could equal blue or black, R could equal red, that sort of thing), and  others of which designate a specific type of wood used in the construction (such as "SP", which is the suffix used for "Spalted Maple", a very attractive wood which achieves its stunning appearance due to the effects of an organism that causes damage to the wood). This is one of the few times that the "S" after the model number (as in D46SP) does NOT mean "solid wood soundboard"...the damage the fungus causes to the wood results in a diminished strength to the wood, so all "SP" products are laminated, as the fungus-damaged wood would not be strong enough for a solid wood Spalted Maple soundboard to endure the stresses put on it by the string tension.

As with any industry that has been around for so long as lutherie, there are a LOT more "alpha/numeric" designations, but for the most part these are enough tips to get you started decoding your serial number information or model designation information. There will always be additional unusual alpha/numeric designations...different body styles, etc., and most of them are pretty easy to figure out...my WMJ21S model guitars are "Washburn Mini-Jumbo" models with solid wood cedar soundboards, for example, "SJ" stands for "Southern Jumbo", a dreadnought size guitar with rounded shoulders on the upper bout and a slightly larger lower bout than a dreadnought...there are obviously more than I can really remember, so as new ones crop up I'll come back and edit this thread so that the new information can be found here, too.

We hope you'll join in on our discussions...after all, by far the vast majority of us contributing members are here because we really love our Washburns...and we hope you'll join us!

Cheers, and happy hunting for the information you seek!!!!

Dugly 8)

3
It's been happening a LOT lately...I'll try to respond to a question posted on the forum and when I click on "post" the icon just spins and then I get a banner that says something to the effect of "...Washburn didn't send any information"

Of course, the reply is gone....just disappeared into thin air. The last time I was smart enough to copy the response before I tried to post it, but...well, how many times does it take for Washburn's forum to send info? 

Anyone know what's going on...or having the same problem?

Dugly 8)

4
I don't want to spam up your forum board with a duplicate post, so please visit my original post on the Acoustic Guitar board, and if you can offer advice I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks, folks! Here's the thread link:

http://forums.washburn.com/index.php/topic,26819.0.html

Cheers!...and thanks in advance for any help you can provide, I really am clueless (as you'll realize once you read the thread!).

Dugly 8)

5
OK, guys 'n' gals, I have decided that I have enough juiced acoustic guitars that I really do need to get an amp.

I have "chatted" with the technical support department of a few online music equipment retailers and they have all told me that what I want just doesn't exist...so here is what I was hoping for (doesn't sound too unreasonable to me, but what do I know...obviously NOTHING, that's why I am asking for advice):

I would like a single small amp so that I won't need a trailer to do solo gigs.

I would like for the amp to have separate inputs for a microphone and for a single instrument (one of my juiced acoustic guitars or my Epiphone ES335 copy, called a "Dot")

I really prefer the sound of Class A (Tube amps) over Solid State, so I'd like for the amp to be a tube type.

I don't need a large speaker, so a small speaker (6.5"-8" would be fine, I think) seems advisable. I am not going to be playing large venues, just small bars, that sort of thing. The larger bars have a PA system into which I can and do already plug in.

You'd think I had asked for the moon and the stars to hear the advice I got from online retailers.

What do you all use? I can't imagine I'd ever want to use distortion or pedals or any of that stuff...just make my guitar and my voice loud enough to be heard over the din.

So...what are you using, folks?

Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can offer!

Cheers!

Dugly 8)

6
I just heard that Bob Dylan was granted a Nobel prize for literature.

IMHO it could not have gone to a more deserving person. Dylan has been one of my musical heroes for most of my life and is one of the main reasons that, when asked how old I am, I respond "Well, the protoplasm may be older than aluminum foil, but the spirit is 32."

Dylan has stayed young forever...long may we all!!!

Cheers...and more cheers...for the Nobel prize committee for recognizing an American legend for his literary accomplishments. Well done!!

Dugly 8)

7
For those of you who may have your heart set on a new Washburn, I'd suggest you check out World Music Supply. They are offering some of the higher end acoustics at well under what is normally "street price", which is usually about 60% of MSRP, such as a WSJ50SKElite (with either a solid spruce soundboard or a solid cedar soundboard), complete with case, for 28% of MSRP.

I have no idea if WMS is an authorized Washburn dealer, so you might want to check that out. It makes a difference...no warranty if you don't buy it from an authorized dealer.

It's a Columbus Day special, so probably a very limited time frame for the offer.

BTW...I have no connection with WMS, just noticed their specials while I was surfing for other musical gear.

Good luck!

Cheers!

Dugly 8) 

8
Good day!  Back when I signed up for this forum in 2007 we had multiple forum members from England, including a member who was producing and selling items such as bone bridge pins, saddles and nuts. I can't seem to recall that individual's forum name and I'm hoping someone can remember who it was...

If you are THAT person who remembers the individual's forum name, would you please reply with that information?

Thanks!

Dugly 8)

9
General Discussion / RIP "The Artist Formerly Known as Prince"
« on: April 21, 2016, 12:52:51 PM »
I heard during lunch that "Prince" has died.

He was one who you either liked or you didn't...not much in between....but despite the impressions he left, his musical prowess could not be disputed.

We have lost another great one.....but hopefully we're developing more....although I doubt there will ever be another like Prince.

Dugly   :'(


10
I get a daily web message from World Music Supply and I notice they have a lot of Idol models at huge discounts.

I don't use the electrics I have, so I am not interested, but those of you on the "...dark side" might be. IIRC I even saw an autographed single offering, but it was fairly high priced.

Just thought Y'all might like to know...I have no connection to the company, just love my Washburns.

Cheers!!

Dugly 8)

11
Just today I was answering a newb's question and mentioned "...back when WB Nick was moderating..."

Well, in case y'all haven't noticed (as I had not until about 5 minutes ago)...he's baaaack!!!

Welcome back, ol' buddy...WEBgUy did a good job, but you were very much missed by many of us who were always pleased with your support!!

Cheers!!!

Dugly 8)

12
Washburn Dealers Section / WTB WD32S!
« on: November 13, 2015, 09:25:12 PM »
So, my first Washburn was a WD32S...one of the first all solid wood additions to the collection was a WD32SW, so I gifted the WD32S to a decent teenage guitarist who was playing junk.

I have regretted it ever since!! That WD32S had such a great, gutsy tone and my WD32SW can't hold a candle to it (although it is delightfully superior in other ways). I am now pursuing the purchase of another WD32S.

If you have one in decent shape for sale, please contact me so we can see if we can negotiate a transfer of ownership.

Thanks, all!!!

Cheers!!

Dugly 8)

13
General Discussion / Have y'all noticed this?
« on: August 30, 2015, 08:01:42 AM »
Lately I have been intrigued by the presence of guitars in TV advertisements. Sometimes the guitars are just sitting, sometimes someone is playing the guitar, but the advertisements are never about guitars.

Has anyone else noticed this? I do not see other musical instrument in advertisements, only guitars. Sometimes the view of the guitar is fleeting, as if viewed just momentarily as the camera pans, or in the back of a car as the driver passes.

Intriguing! If you have not noticed, take a look and soon you'll start seeing them a LOT!

Cheers!

Dully 8)

14
General Discussion / Please explain about the Buzz Feiten Tuning System
« on: October 18, 2014, 04:41:38 PM »
My WD32SW has the Buzz Feiten tuning system...or maybe it doesn't (anymore).

I ask because the BFT system must not have anything to do with the tuners, mine are Grovers.

It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the saddle...unless the factory does some sort of magic to custom fit the saddle to each of the guitars that are said to have the system. I have quite a few Wasnburn guitars and I did not see any difference in the compensation between my WD32SW and my other non-BFT equipped guitars.

The fretboard nut does not look any different, nor does it seem to have any "added" thickness for any of the strings (which would alter the scale slightly for an individual string and possibly efffect the tuning of that string alone). I know electric guitars often have individually adjustable bridges for each string to get the intonation just exactly correct....but acoustic guitars do not and yet there must be something about the BFT system, or Washburn would not make mention of it so prominently on the models that are so equipped.

So...I'm at a loss for understanding what the difference is between BFT equipped guitars and those that aren't...and certainly at a loss for understanding how it works.

Can anyone explain this in simple enough terms that I can understand it?

Thanks in advance for all your efforts....would also like to find out how those with more knowledge use it to benefit the sound of their guitars. It might be a lost cause for me, b/c my factory saddle and my factory nut on my WD32SW have been replaced with West African Hard Ivory from Bob Colosi, so if the nut or the saddle (or both) are responsible for the BFT's claimed benefits, mine went away with the old plastic stuff long ago.

Cheers!

Dugly 8)


15
Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Washburn on "The Voice"
« on: September 23, 2014, 08:15:25 PM »
Yep...one of the newer dreadnought CE models (first glimpse of the rosette gave it away). The guy playing it got all 4 chairs to turn around...he went with Team Pharrell...Team Adam would have been my choice.

We'll see how long the Washburn lasts...it seems like the producers put Gibsons into the hands of the contestants whenever they can.

Cheers!!

Dugly 8)


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