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Messages - YerDugliness

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Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Can anyone help me identify my Axe?
« on: September 22, 2017, 06:50:04 PM »
The model number may be on tbe neck-block inside the body of the guitar. That would help us a lot if you find it there.

Pics became almost non-existent here when Photobucket got greedy and demanded a $400 payment to host photos. Most of us just let Photobucket delete our photos rather than pay Photobucket's exorbitant ransom demands.


Dugly 8)

General Discussion / Re: used Washburns on the market
« on: September 19, 2017, 06:06:29 PM »

Will you be updating this thread as you run across new offerings?

That Folk guitar interests me...and just when I thought the frequent GAS might be ready to slow down  :o

Cheers for you, Tony  :D

Dugly 8)

Are you missing just one?

If so, you can send one of your other bridge pins to Bob Colosi at and he will reproduce it for you in your choice of materials (check out his website).

Otherwise, if you're just replacing a factory pin, I'd suggest getting hold of Washburn's customer service department.

I just recently received two new Washburn acoustic guitars...each of them came from the factory with an extra pin and an extra saddle. If yours is new, perhaps check the packet of stuff that came with it from the factory, there may be a nice surprise waiting for you there.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Oscar Schmidt OG2N
« on: September 13, 2017, 07:37:20 PM »
Cool review, Tony!!!

I am starting to give beginner/intermediate guitar lessons and will certainly encourage potential students to consider the OS offerings.

BTW...the party I mentioned using OS guitars for children in his family...Pike, the guy who posted the response to your review. He's not around much lately...he is sorely missed, I assure you.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Oscar Schmidt OG2N
« on: September 13, 2017, 03:43:35 PM »
The "Oscar Schmidt" line is Washburn's "economy" offerings...we don't have much traffic here on the forum about them. If I had to guess, I would say it is an all laminate guitar, but that assumes (and we all know about that) Washburn uses the same model identification for OS products.

Have you tried the search function? It's on the tool bar at the top of the forum...just put in "OS OG2N". This forum has been around for quite a while, so there ought to be some info there. I can tell you that one of our most knowlegable members uses the OS line for children in his family. He does some set-up work on them and speaks very highly of them.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: D44SW Golden Harvest
« on: September 13, 2017, 03:32:30 PM »

The Golden Harvest guitars are gorgeous!!!

Now that you are playing it, stick around and join in on our discussions  ;D

Almost all of us play guits from different manufacturers, but we're here because we love our Washburns  :)


Dugly 8)

Guitar Care, Repair, Modification & Lutherie / Re: Sanding a WM100
« on: September 11, 2017, 08:06:04 PM »
The WM100 is an all-laminate guitar (essentially, a specially manufactured plywood). The outer layers may be VERY thin, so if it were me I'd contact Washburn's customer service department to get some guidance. There may be NO safe amount of sanding... :(


Dugly 8)

If you sell it in its current condition it would probably bring $250 +/- a bit.

The lines between the bridge and the "butt" of the guitar are  probably cracks in the soundboard. That is an unusual condition and the cause needs to be investigated. Do the lines coincide with the location of the pins that hold the strings in the bridge? If so, it is possible that the bridge pins may have been replaced with either larger pins or "harder" pins (replacing the factory pins with bone pins is not uncommon modification). Using too much pressure on bone pins has been known to "fracture" the bridge (particularly when humidity "swells" the wood the bridge is made of, resulting in a reduction of the diameter of the holes in the bridge, and, unfortunately, cracked bridges and soundboards).

I bought a D61SW  with a known cracked bridge, not at the pins, but at the saddle slot. That was a much easier repair and although it has been quite a few years ago, IIRC I paid in the range of $300-$325.

If I had to guess, the cost of repairing your guitar may well be significant...those cracks will need to be "cleated" to stop them from spreading.

My best suggestion is to take it to a luthier if you have one located locally and get an estimate on whatever is wrong and the cost to repair it. If it was just a cracked bridge it would be reasonable to replace it (<$100??). The cracks in the soundboard worry me...this may be beyond the skills of a shop technician.

Here's hoping it works out for you. Please let us know what you find out.


Dugly 8)

The D62SW is a highly regarded model...most likely produced by Yamaki in Japan, which has produced some very high quality guitars.

It is worth fixing, particularly since you recieved it at no cost. It might be cost-prohibitive to pay for both the guitar as well as the repairs.

Are you interested in keeping it?


Dugly 8)

Thanks a lot Dugly for that info.

Just wondering on a acoustic/electric such as WCG18CEN is it possible that adjusting the  truss rod could affect the intonation of the guitar as I go up the neck?

I have to say that Washburn make good guitars at a good price, this is my second one now, so I am well pleased.

Thanks again.

As I understand it the intonation is established by the offsets on the saddle. While I suppose you might be able to put a good bow into the neck by adjusting the truss rod, I doubt that the guitar would be playable. Before you start adjusting the neck measure the guitar's scale (the distance between the nut and the saddle) and check it after your adjustments. If your scale is not at spec, as long as you bought it from an authorized dealer Washburn should repair or replace the guitar.

I doubt that you could put enough bow into a neck that it would substantially alter the scale...I'd think you'd start popping strings first.


Dugly 8)

Thanks guys for the replies and sorry about taking some time to reply.

I do notice that the ssaddle itself looks pretty high in size  in above the bridge saddle slot, whereas with any other guitars  whereI had action adjusted by a luthier, the saddles themselves are well sanded down and didn't protrude a great deal above the bridge.


Joe, one of the signs that a guitar needs work is when the strings'  "break angle" over the bridge is lowered because of neck issues. If the break angle is too high because the underneath of the saddle is sanded down too much, the volume of the guitar can be significantly reduced due to that issue.

Generally high action around the 12th fret can usually be addressed by a truss-rod adjustment, while lowering the overall action is addressed by sanding down the underside of the saddle...but a neck that requires excessive adjustment to the height of the saddle can signal the onset of a condition that can only be corrected by a "neck reset"...often times at greater expense than the value of the guitar.

It sounds like, from your description, that your saddle sits high enough that it presents a good break angle and therefore sanding down the saddle in small increments will not present an issue.


Dugly 8)

I had a bridge lift on an Epiphone guitar...IIRC it was very inexpensive to have reset, like $35.00.

Congratulations on having made a GREAT choice!!!

Speaking of saddles and bridges, one of the most effective upgrades for guitars with solid wood soundboards is to have the factory plastic saddle replaced with one made of bone. The more dense bone transmits the vibrations more effectively than plastic. I mention this because the replacement saddle is cheap and the labor is not unreasonable. I would expect it could be added for about $20-$30 over the cost of the bridge reset.

It is the only upgrade I could see being advisable...and there will be no better time to get it done than while it is already on the bench...BTW, when the tech does the bridge/saddle work, he should also do a "setup", which includes adjusting the "action". Your son should be there for that operation, so that the action can be set to his preference. A setup every year is a good idea for someone who plays a lot...and I expect your son will play that 42S a LOT!

My first Washburn was a WD32S...a grade lower than your 42S. I gifted it to a promising young musician, sure wish I had it back! It had a gutsy growl that none of my other Washburns can approach. Your 42S should be even better!
Cheers to you, nurse Shelly!!

Dugly 8)

He is of adult size and should be able to use any of them.

If you just MUST have all of the bells and whistles, the WLD10SCE would have them...but the low model number identifies it as an entry level guitar. Most of us guitarists have both acoustic and electric, so if he's getting an electric for his BD he'll be all set with his current electronics.

If I had to bet a paycheck (and I'm NOT a betting man) I'd wager he'll find the WD42S to be quite the pleasure, and if he's interested in performing in public with his amps it would be of good enough construction that installing an electric pickup would not be cost-prohibitive. That 42S is a quality guitar and with good care it will serve him well for a lifetime!

That's great news about his shows that he is ready for steel strings and that is a good status! He'll adapt to all 3 of your choices easily. I'll search the forum for information related to the WD42S and if there is much I'll return and edit this post.

Cheers and appears you have a budding musician in your family and you have a great grasp on what he'd like! I'd say his size would make the OS model inadvisable.

Dugly 8)

How large of a 13 year old is he?

I ask because the Oscar Schmidt offering has received great reviews from one of our most prominent members. He used the OG2ce for all of the kids in his families.

The other two are "dreadnought" designs...very large guitars that were developed as the era of the "orchestra" was dying out...the smaller parlor guitars of the day just did not have adequate volume to project over the din of the orchestra, but the Dreadnought did!

If you think he'd like playing the guitar and would make a long-term effort at learning to play, I'd say it would be hard to beat the WD42S, even if it is perhaps a bit too large for him right now...he'll most likely grow into it. That may not be enough, though...if the guitar is too large right now it may be difficult to play and he'll likely lose interest. My suggestion would be to take him to a guitar shop and let him handle the acoustic guitars to see which size feels best in his hands...and which are too large.

Do you think he'll be playing onstage and need to have electronics built into the guitar so he can plug into an amplifier or a PA system? If so, the WD-42S is not for electronics. When the last two letters of the model designation are "CE" the guitars are equipped with a "cutaway body design" and come factory fitted with Electronics for public performances.

Here's a unique idea...why not consider both the WD42S as well as the OG2CE? You would not be in too deep compared to the cost of just one WLD10SCE and he'd have not only the OG2CE at a time when it would be right for him size-wise while he is learning the basics, so hopefully by the time he's grown a bit he'll be ready for the larger size of the WD-42S.

Most of us guitarists develop "licks" as we grow more proficient on the guitar. It is the job of the soundboard to translate the vibrations of the soundboard into an auditory event and the construction can certainly have an impact on how difficult it is to develop those individual playing preferences. One of the most common methods of gaining a bit of accuracy and a tendency for the guitars to improve tone-wise from the ageing process (which is a different topic altogether) is to make sure the guitar has a soundboard that is made of solid wood. Any Washburn that has a solid wood soundboard will have a "S" in the model designation. Of the two you are considering the only one that does not have that advantageous construction technique is the has a "laminate" (a fine grade of plywood) soundboard and those do not develop the improved tonal characteristics with age.

Like most, I suspect you expected a simple answer...sorry, it's not so easy until the guitarist develops knowledge and preferences regarding at this age and size there are LOTS of options, but he will soon outgrow many of them.

I'd like the WD42S if I were has a solid wood soundboard and having been produced in 2003 the soundboard is (hopefully) showing the benefit of the ageing process with increased tone...not to mention that the 42S is one of the mid-line guitars and not one of the entry level offerings such as the others (the higher the number in the model designation, the better the guitar's build quality from the factory).

Just curious...have you considered a classical guitar? They are fairly small bodied and they do not have the steel strings that can create sore fingers...they use line that looks like clear fishing line and it is not sharp like steel strings, as well as having a wider fingerboard so that the learning process is easier (as long as his fingers are long enough for that size fingerboard...see how important size is?). A case for the WD42S would cost less than $100 and would be good "insurance"...we parents know how careless our teenagers can be.

My sincere apologies if I have confused you...all this depends on his level of interest and his size.

Please feel free to ask for clarification, and I'd definitely be interested in hearing what choice you made.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: D44SW Golden Harvest
« on: September 06, 2017, 02:14:54 PM »
Any recommendations for strings?

I use exclusively (for my steel string guitars) Dean Markley Alchemy GoldBronze strings in the light gauge (.011-.052). I like them for 3 reasons:

1.) They hold their tune for a long time! I seldom need to retune the guitar and even when I do it is always a minute amount. I would suspect your guitar has 18:1 Grover tuners, those would be perfect for these strings!

2.) They hold their tone for a long time! There are times when I bring an old "friend" out of its case and I am always amazed at how good the strings still tones!!!.

3.) These strings ARE expensive (close to $20/set for the last pack I bought) but they just, plain last a LONG time, so that evens it out compared to someone who needs to change strings every couple of weeks. I have never had them show any signs of corrosion (but, then, my fingers do not sweat much, so that would be expected).

That is a great looking guitar, BTW!!! (and IMHO a real STEAL for $250!!!)


Dugly 8)

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