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Messages - Tony Raven

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General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« on: May 27, 2017, 11:34:02 AM »
Be sure to tell us what theinside wood looks like! ;D

I have to admit, it's certainly a pretty axe. The abalone (purfling & rosette) is a nice touch, but you had me at "cedar top" -- currently I own neither a Grand nor a cedar, so this is tempting... but I got to pass, even at a mere $240 all-in.

(Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but does that include a gig bag at least?)

Signature Series / Re: Washburn Dime 3 diamond plate
« on: May 26, 2017, 01:19:30 PM »
The diamond-plate version doesn't appear very often. I saw one listed with some paint cracking & corner dings, & it sold for $5,000 within two weeks.

As there's demand for this model, I warn buyers to beware of buying them. They're easy to counterfeit, & you might be handing over thousands of dollars for a China guitar (stamped MADE IN U.S.A., of course) that's not worth $200.

If you are a serious buyer, then go to a serious music store, with at least $3,000 in-hand. Ask THEM to find you one, & to guarantee it's the real thing AND there's nothing wrong with it AND it's not stolen. They'll likely demand a down-payment on the spot (some of it non-refundable should you change your mind).

What do you mean by "ST models"? The 3ST is worth double the STPRO, which is worth double the 2ST.

X Series / Re: Fretboard Radius
« on: May 26, 2017, 01:04:29 PM » says the RX-10 has a 12" fretboard radius.

However, with Washburn's more popular low-end guitars, specs like that can change readily, as they tweak them mid-run, or shift production between factories or even to another country.

IMO, there's really no "X Series" except maybe the offset fretboard dots (X-10 through X-22). The X-30 & X-33 are somewhat similar, there's TWO versions of X-40, a dozen or more variants of X-50, & the Donais models. The only unifying factors are the vaguely JEM-style slimmed-Strat body shapes, 25.5" fretboard, & six-in-line tuners. Specs like radius likely vary from model to model.

There's little basis to draw parallels between series. To me, it looked like the better X models were supposed to be replaced by RX, & the cheaper end by XM, but the new owners of the company lost sight of this & set the two lines competing against each other for the whole range.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: D-15 Washburn. I purchased in 1984
« on: May 26, 2017, 12:18:05 PM »
As I recall, a good (maybe even VERY good) acoustic, but not great or legendary or anything. Perhaps "unusual" but I wouldn't say "rare." Given the era, might be a Yairi. Probably laminate back/sides.

If you're primarily an acoustic player, & the top has mellowed so nicely, then IMO you probably won't easily find a similar tone for less than $1,000.

Then again, street value seems to be ~$500. If it's excess inventory for you, then I'd say to take the grand.

I'm an admirer, not a hands-on fan, but I can give you some basics.

That's a model number, not a serial number. The WE333SC means it's a "Dimebolt" 333 (1995-2003), in Snow Camo paint. The standard 333 was available in BlackJack, DimeSlime (green), or DimeBolt graphic. It's import (probably Korea).

The 333 model has some low-end variants of questionable quality, particularly early models that retailed <$1,000. Former owners mention the Rebel Flag or Polka Dot finishes as memorably bad.

There were MANY short-run variants of the 333 -- well, a couple dozen, anyway -- to shops such as Funky Munky or Boogie Street; these are generally the best versions of the 333. I heard the Snow Camo was built just for Funky Munky, but that's all I know; actually, I've used SCs selling online from Music-Go-Round, Guitar Center, & Reverb.

Some of the custom work was done in the Illinois shop, but unless there's something indicating this, you'd have to contact Customer Service -- with the ACTUAL serial number -- to possibly determine this.

Demand for a 333 is often determined largely from its hardware. Though I think the Schaller version of the Rose bridge is overrated (Gotoh is better), that's desirable. So too would be pickups from EMG (or maybe Lawrence or Duncan).

The 333 seems to trade for about $400-$700 (with case). Mostly, they're traded amongst Dime fans, flippers, hoarders, & "collectors" rather than players. Since the quality USA-made Dime 3 can sometimes be found for $1,500 or less, this depresses the 333's value.

Yep, available 1993-1994, & probably before the move MII/MIC so probably Korea.

Some say that would be "month of year," & that's more likely to be correct with longer serial numbers, but I've yet to see this confirmed by the company. In any case, its likely that your guitar was #7 of that run, & (considering the brevity of the line) maybe #7, period.

Have you compared the thickness of the two fretboards?

There's the possibility that glue-down wasn't clamped adequately &/or that a more pliable glue has been used.

Hollowbody & Jazz Series / Re: HB35 weight balance
« on: May 18, 2017, 09:56:26 AM »
True enough -- on a 335, the "wings" have very little structural intent. This is fine for players who mostly sit or stand still. Actually, unless you're already endangering your guitar, it'd likely do fine with a well-installed wood screw, but I do understand your concern.

Two options come to mind. The easiest is to overdrill the hole (like 1/4" or more), & put in some sort of toggle anchor. Not a big fan of this one, I'll admit.

That leaves (as you guessed) going inside. If I needed to do THAT much work, I'd drill the screw-size hole clean through & use fishline, pulling the screw through from inside. The little piece of wood would be carved to roughly fit -- short of taking the top off, or much painstaking work with a bore cam, I doubt exactness is possible -- & get a thin layer of black rubber foam where it'd mee the inside of the horn. Instead of a screw I'd use a hexhead, carve a snug hex recess into the wood, & use a tiny dot of cyanocrylate on the screw to to pull it into place; this would likely take a few tries to get the screw length correct. Put on the strap button & a nut (maybe with Loctite).

Is there a model of Cube that's able to meet the specification separate inputs for a microphone and for a single instrument? Though I'm a Roland fan, I've lost track of their amp models.

Is the Fender combo going to work with a microphone AND a guitar? I had an old guitar amp that'd do that, but then again it was MADE with the intent of running two inputs; most "two input" amps are A-or-B, period, no AND.

Besides, the setup was always at the ragged edge of squeal; guitar amps aren't optimized for microphone input, & a lo-Z (low impedange) mic would need an inline transformer.

Hollowbody & Jazz Series / Re: HB35 weight balance
« on: May 14, 2017, 01:05:58 PM »
IME, it's a recurring problem with any 335-style guitar.

You could reduce the headstock weight, or add weight to the butt-end (or that end of your strap), or relocate a strap button. In this case, moving the button from the neck heel to the tip of the horn will give a little more stability. You'll probably need a longer screw than presently used.

From the Classic series (later Tour), 1987-1991. Well-regarded guitars, with the WP-100 being top-line. Original MSRP $1,299. Only belatedly developed interest from players, as they realized it's not some mere LP clone.

The whole "where was it made" thing is largely irrelevant. Anyone who knows nothing of Washburn in general (let alone this model) will look only at the "MIJ" or "USA" part... & lowball you. Someone who recognizes how good the WP is will know what it's worth.

Fjestad's Rule is that very few guitars will ever be worth 50% of their MSRP. This is one of the exceptions, & in 95% shape could be worth $650+.

Totally awesome, dude.  :o Thanks for pulling this stuff together!!

Some expansions/additions to assist with other FAQs:
  • anyone who wants "to find out about my Washburn" ought to do some of the legwork. I apologize for sometimes getting terse about this, but I also charge $40 & more to do this for people for insurance & estate purposes, so expecting me to do it for free is like demanding that I send you forty bucks. If it's an easy one, or an interesting puzzle, or I feel that many others here will benefit from it, then I might take it up. You can check the 1989-2000 price lists at the Community section ( & some catalogs (, or contact Customer Support (
  • if you plug washburn guitars into your favourite search-engine, the second hit will probably be for the Wikipedia article: I pulled together all sorts of scattered bits -- not least from the wonderful people who've been on these Forums over the years -- & am quite proud of it though it's still evolving. This now contains a whole BUNCH of actual corporate history, as well as some details about the suffix letters, & tabular data on the various models (which you can list by name or date or prefix or whatever).
  • speaking of history: there is no connection whatever between modern Washburn & pre-1940s Washburn. The present-day company didn't inherit any paperwork AT ALL. (Matter of fact, there was at least one big fire more than a century ago that pretty much wiped out the files to that point.) If you want to know more, you MUST bring the actual instrument to an actual expert who will likely charge you actual money. You can do some of the work by shelling out at least $50 for a book, Washburn Prewar Instrument Styles by Hubert Pleijsier.
  • ...but I can save you some effort: your "vintage" Washburn is probably NOT worth as much as you believe. Most of those old guitars, in Excellent condition, are pretty common in the <$500 range -- hey, there were literally millions of 'em. The exceptions have much inlay, which some call "presentation" models, meant moreto be given as a gift or memento than for performance. If you put $500 into restoring an old Washburn, you'll probably have a pretty good $500 guitar. ;D
  • the K in the suffix stands for "kit". This could mean anything from a cheap vinyl gigbag up to a very nice fitted case. This might also point up a "beginner" guitar that arrived with the usual confetti -- dozen picks, spare string set, stand, "How To Play Guitar" DVD, etc.
  • this can be significant because the Blue Book (more about that in a moment) clearly says a guitar that was sold with a case needs to have that same case or its equivalent, or the market value goes down. Since we're talking Washburn here, this generally isn't a major downer for value, unlike (say) a '50s Strat... but if you're thinking about buying a Washburn, make sure you get ALL the stuff, or at least pay a few bucks less. There's one minor dealer that has been known to sell a new "K" guitar without its case (no discount, of course), then put the case out as a separate $100 item!!
  • the best ready source of info is Fjestad's Blue Book, -- while you have to buy the book/CD or pay online to see the current valuations (in USD), post-1978 Washburn is one of their best-researched brands. There is a LOT of data there. I'd say it's about 95% complete, & 98% accurate.
  • the Beckmens owned the Washburn brand 1974-1977. These have the "W" prefix, & were buit in Japan by Yamaki. These were mostly meant to be good cheap guitars, but the well-decorated W-500 & W-600 were built for less than a year, & have a following.
  • the modern Washburn was owned by Rudy Schlacher 1977-2009. Many successful models were ended in 2010; some of what remained were sourced to cheaper factories &/or had features reduced (like Grover tuners or select-grade woods).
  • Jim Smith Sr. is (was?) a legendary Washburn collector, with "over 500" guitars stashed in two warehouses, so I take him at his word. Among other things, he says the better acoustics 1974 to about 1982 were built by Sadao & Hiroshi Yairi. Smith rates most import Washburn acoustics 1974-1996 as "of very good to excellent quality".
  • Smith also says that "probably 60%" of Washburn models had a single production run of 200 units, & were never reordered if sales were slow. So, there's some quality Washies out there that are MUCH rarer than most "limited edition"models.
  • mostly, we have no idea about build numbers. You'll have to contact Customer Service, who don't show up here as much as they used to.
  • serial numbers are only mostly reliable for determining manufacture date --  check Blue Book & apply common sense. If a model was sold 1992-2001, & the s/n begins "89-" then it's more likely a 1998 than some super-rare 1989.
  • as detailed elsewhere, a four-digit s/n IS NOT reliable for magical date-coding. If the first digit is year, that leaves only three numbers, meaning only 1,000 guitars could be built that year; steal the first TWO for date, & there'd only be numbers for 100.  :o Same thing goes for stealing two digits for month & four for placement: asimple task with an eight-digit s/n, but unlikely with shorter numbers.
  • mostly, we have no idea where most models were built. Sometimes we get lucky & the s/n has a factory-code prefix or an old press release says where it was built or someone's got one with the "made in" paper tag still attached.

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