Username: Password:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Tony Raven

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 50
That's about consonant with Blue Book valuation if it has a decent case, so you're not getting "ripped off." Then again, you're not going to make money by flipping it, but you wouldn't lose either.

Whether it's worth buying is a matter of how well it's aged & mellowed. If it's a dream to play & sounds great, & doesn't soon need a neck reset or reglued ribs, & you appreciate that stuff, then it's a deal.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Help Identify My Washburn!
« on: June 18, 2017, 07:21:27 PM »
Not a whole lot of info to be had about that particular model. Seems less common than its line mates FV-2V, FV-10V, FV-20V.

If it's got the tapered 3-3 headstock, it's probably Japan, Matsumoku in fact. But I think the FVs reappeared later with a hockey-stick head, which is likely Korea.

General Discussion / Re: Oscar Schmidt/ Washburn
« on: June 18, 2017, 07:10:25 PM »
I cannot vouch that Oscar Schmidt numbers follow (or have followed) Washburn conventions.

The numbering system has changed repeatedly over the years. Sitting next to me is a Washburn BT-3, s/n I81xxxxx. The line existed 1995-2002. Therefore, it's more likely a 1998 than some uber-rare 1981.

Based on that, I'd guess that your OG-5 is more likely 1999, particularly as it's from Korea.

The OG-5 hasn't been made in years, in any case.

The model number is easy to decode: the "G" stands for Grand or fullsize... but that's iffy, because various OG models are dreadnought, mini-dread, concert, auditorium, jumbo-ish, slope-shoulder, & others.

Anyway, yours is Wine Red.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: UNKNOWN MODEL
« on: June 10, 2017, 01:10:23 PM »
Absoutely agree with the ~$200 valuation.

As with so many Washburn models, it's a very good guitar, with a sever lack of popularity -- those who WANT them generally already HAVE them, & aren't in the market for another, & everyone else remains blissfully unaware of what they're missing out on.

This lack of demand pushes down resale value, which does suck for sellers, but is GREAT for any buyers.

That said, the current online market is swamped with the round-horn EA15 going out for ~$200 used; personally, I prefer the looks of the sharp horn. The color also stands out from the now-common pinkish Natural. And yours also has that spiffy "butterfly" bridgeplate, discontinued years ago.

If Washburn's model numbers hold true, the EA4000 is a short-run version of the EA40, which is more difficult to find than the EA20 (past or present). Given that, I'd tend to give parity between a used EA40 & a new EA20 (common at $299), & bump that up considering the fit-&-finish details no longer available in a Festival.

If you're going to sell it, & aren't in a huge hurry, I'd say to ask at least $350, & wait for an appreciative buyer.

Announcements & News / Re: Chicago Custom Shop -- HELP ME
« on: June 10, 2017, 12:25:31 PM »
I'm still helping to clear up Wikipedia articles relevant to Washburn.

Someone asked me whether Washburn still has "made in USA" models. Clearly, there ARE -- presentlythe seven USA Custom Series electrics.

But seeing as the Mundelein facility was shuttered 2012, I am at a loss as to WHERE these guitars are being built. Is there a luthiery at Buffalo Grove?

Signature Series / Re: Value of a Dime 2ST?
« on: May 31, 2017, 08:54:45 PM »
FWIW, I'd rather have a 2ST than any of the (seemingly endless!!) slew of Dean "beginner" guitars. While not one of the greatest examples of Washburn, at least the 2ST was issued while Darrell was still around.

Now that I think of it, Dean Zelinsky sold the "Dean" brand in like 1986, & all Darrell's Dean guitars were built previous to that. Darrell might have had a fresh prototype in his collection, but I have yet to see convincing proof he ever approved any of the low-end models that capitalized on his death.

Well, anyway. In the long run, the Washburn will hold its value much better than the Deans. If you're still playing,consider upgrading the hardware, especially if you can find good used stuff.

General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« on: May 27, 2017, 11:34:02 AM »
Be sure to tell us what theinside wood looks like! ;D

I have to admit, it's certainly a pretty axe. The abalone (purfling & rosette) is a nice touch, but you had me at "cedar top" -- currently I own neither a Grand nor a cedar, so this is tempting... but I got to pass, even at a mere $240 all-in.

(Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but does that include a gig bag at least?)

Signature Series / Re: Washburn Dime 3 diamond plate
« on: May 26, 2017, 01:19:30 PM »
The diamond-plate version doesn't appear very often. I saw one listed with some paint cracking & corner dings, & it sold for $5,000 within two weeks.

As there's demand for this model, I warn buyers to beware of buying them. They're easy to counterfeit, & you might be handing over thousands of dollars for a China guitar (stamped MADE IN U.S.A., of course) that's not worth $200.

If you are a serious buyer, then go to a serious music store, with at least $3,000 in-hand. Ask THEM to find you one, & to guarantee it's the real thing AND there's nothing wrong with it AND it's not stolen. They'll likely demand a down-payment on the spot (some of it non-refundable should you change your mind).

What do you mean by "ST models"? The 3ST is worth double the STPRO, which is worth double the 2ST.

X Series / Re: Fretboard Radius
« on: May 26, 2017, 01:04:29 PM » says the RX-10 has a 12" fretboard radius.

However, with Washburn's more popular low-end guitars, specs like that can change readily, as they tweak them mid-run, or shift production between factories or even to another country.

IMO, there's really no "X Series" except maybe the offset fretboard dots (X-10 through X-22). The X-30 & X-33 are somewhat similar, there's TWO versions of X-40, a dozen or more variants of X-50, & the Donais models. The only unifying factors are the vaguely JEM-style slimmed-Strat body shapes, 25.5" fretboard, & six-in-line tuners. Specs like radius likely vary from model to model.

There's little basis to draw parallels between series. To me, it looked like the better X models were supposed to be replaced by RX, & the cheaper end by XM, but the new owners of the company lost sight of this & set the two lines competing against each other for the whole range.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: D-15 Washburn. I purchased in 1984
« on: May 26, 2017, 12:18:05 PM »
As I recall, a good (maybe even VERY good) acoustic, but not great or legendary or anything. Perhaps "unusual" but I wouldn't say "rare." Given the era, might be a Yairi. Probably laminate back/sides.

If you're primarily an acoustic player, & the top has mellowed so nicely, then IMO you probably won't easily find a similar tone for less than $1,000.

Then again, street value seems to be ~$500. If it's excess inventory for you, then I'd say to take the grand.

I'm an admirer, not a hands-on fan, but I can give you some basics.

That's a model number, not a serial number. The WE333SC means it's a "Dimebolt" 333 (1995-2003), in Snow Camo paint. The standard 333 was available in BlackJack, DimeSlime (green), or DimeBolt graphic. It's import (probably Korea).

The 333 model has some low-end variants of questionable quality, particularly early models that retailed <$1,000. Former owners mention the Rebel Flag or Polka Dot finishes as memorably bad.

There were MANY short-run variants of the 333 -- well, a couple dozen, anyway -- to shops such as Funky Munky or Boogie Street; these are generally the best versions of the 333. I heard the Snow Camo was built just for Funky Munky, but that's all I know; actually, I've used SCs selling online from Music-Go-Round, Guitar Center, & Reverb.

Some of the custom work was done in the Illinois shop, but unless there's something indicating this, you'd have to contact Customer Service -- with the ACTUAL serial number -- to possibly determine this.

Demand for a 333 is often determined largely from its hardware. Though I think the Schaller version of the Rose bridge is overrated (Gotoh is better), that's desirable. So too would be pickups from EMG (or maybe Lawrence or Duncan).

The 333 seems to trade for about $400-$700 (with case). Mostly, they're traded amongst Dime fans, flippers, hoarders, & "collectors" rather than players. Since the quality USA-made Dime 3 can sometimes be found for $1,500 or less, this depresses the 333's value.

Yep, available 1993-1994, & probably before the move MII/MIC so probably Korea.

Some say that would be "month of year," & that's more likely to be correct with longer serial numbers, but I've yet to see this confirmed by the company. In any case, its likely that your guitar was #7 of that run, & (considering the brevity of the line) maybe #7, period.

Have you compared the thickness of the two fretboards?

There's the possibility that glue-down wasn't clamped adequately &/or that a more pliable glue has been used.

Hollowbody & Jazz Series / Re: HB35 weight balance
« on: May 18, 2017, 09:56:26 AM »
True enough -- on a 335, the "wings" have very little structural intent. This is fine for players who mostly sit or stand still. Actually, unless you're already endangering your guitar, it'd likely do fine with a well-installed wood screw, but I do understand your concern.

Two options come to mind. The easiest is to overdrill the hole (like 1/4" or more), & put in some sort of toggle anchor. Not a big fan of this one, I'll admit.

That leaves (as you guessed) going inside. If I needed to do THAT much work, I'd drill the screw-size hole clean through & use fishline, pulling the screw through from inside. The little piece of wood would be carved to roughly fit -- short of taking the top off, or much painstaking work with a bore cam, I doubt exactness is possible -- & get a thin layer of black rubber foam where it'd mee the inside of the horn. Instead of a screw I'd use a hexhead, carve a snug hex recess into the wood, & use a tiny dot of cyanocrylate on the screw to to pull it into place; this would likely take a few tries to get the screw length correct. Put on the strap button & a nut (maybe with Loctite).

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 50