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Messages - Tony Raven

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Show Us Your Washburn / Re: 1979 Sunburst Bass - Help Needed
« on: June 13, 2018, 09:23:22 PM »
Oh, right!! I forgot about the Vultures.

The G3H site says the early (1978-1979) version had "brass (cilinder shaped) saddles," the trussrod & control-cavity covers were plastic, & a top-mounted jack, while the "B" version (1979-1981) had "brass (normal shaped) saddles," wood covers, & side-mount jack.

The only problem is that the tobacco sunburst was with the first model, & G3H seems to say the second model was only available in transparent brown. Other than that, I'd say what we're seeing is a Model B.

Why is it that you are replacing the hardware? Are you intending to upgrade somehow?

IME, most LP clones use very standard hardware, though not the same as an actual Gibson.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: 1979 Sunburst Bass - Help Needed
« on: June 11, 2018, 09:16:06 PM »
There was a guy from Belgium here back around 2008 (before I signed up) with the handle G3H. He loved the Wing models, & created a website dedicated to them --

The Scavenger was the bass sub-line of the Wing Series. It was shorter-lived. The G3H site has only one page, without photos, & mentions only the lower-end bolt-neck versions --

As I've regularly discussed, what it's "worth" depends on too many variables to give you a reliable number. Some Washburn models have achieved near-cult status, but most are undervalued on the market. Your bass is beautiful, & my poor guess is that the multi-piece neck marks it as both higher-end & made-in-Japan. If I owned it, I'd consider it worth $1,000... but to sell it, I'd consider myself fortunate to get half that, & likely after having it listed for a year or two.

Announcements & News / Re: production numbers for acoustic guitars
« on: June 09, 2018, 07:42:37 AM »
Yah, the sudden upsurge of one-post spambots is going from annoying to worrisome. How long until any personal info is compromised?  :(

I don't have my notes handy, but Blue Book says the last retail on the BT-2 (2002) was $340.

I'm fairly certain the early ones at least (1998) were Indonesia (probably Samick) but those serial numbers begin "I". Yours might be Red China.

My experience is that $1,700 is... optimistic. I've seen very few old Washburns go out for $1,000+, & those had interesting inlay work or gold decoration, like this one --
(Yes, $1,500 is far too high, considering the wear.)

I've championed the parlour since the first time I tried one in 1980. While it's nice to see the size finally getting recognition, this might also be a passing fad. But as a result, the market is saturated with some very good inexpensive guitars.

To compete, I'd recommend your Washburn should have all the bracing removed & reglued, & the neck reset, & probably ought to have a trussrod installed. But for moral support, you could contact this guy:

This one?
- dreadnought style, solid spruce top, round soundhole with several rings, select rosewood back and sides, natural hardwood purfling, mahogany neck, adjustable truss rod, 14/20-fret rosewood fingerboard with brass target inlays, three-per-side gold tuners, rosewood bridge, pickguard, Natural finish, mfg. early 1980s-mid 1980s.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the model. From "HG" I can only guess it's a Grand Auditorium size in the Heritage series.

I wonder if you've got the model number right. Washburn does mostly indicate value by the digits, but unless the one you're looking at shows a lot of detail (binding, inlays) or quality woods, I suspect it's more a "7.5" than a "75" (like the D100, which is a D10).

You say nothing about the price. It's difficult to set a value for a short-lived model, especially one that's fairly recent.

If you need an acoustic guitar, & you like it, & it sounds good & plays good, then you probably ought to consider buying it. Waving cash might be a good way to bargain the price down a little, especially if it's been hanging there for months with no interest.

Twenty years ago, I paid $250 for my plywood Alvarez. Still my main acoustic. So I'd have to say that if the HG is in the $250 range, then buy it. If it's in the $500 range, or if you're not excited about playing it, then you could walk away.

If your main intent is to sell it for a profit, then enjoy the gamble.

I used to pop in a 1/4"-to-1/8" headphone adapter that was sitting around. it stood out only 1/2" from the jack so wasn't in the way.

There was at least one guitar on the market with both jacks, & putting in the XLR pressed a tab that both disconnected the phone jack & activated the electronics. I've always been curious why Washburn didn't use the gimmick.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Washburn EA10N Festival series 1994
« on: May 27, 2018, 12:12:01 AM »
I think the EA10 was the low-end Festival. A great model, but I wouldn't buy one without playing it first, as I've seen some that were almost falling apart -- they were NOT intended to last forever or become "collectible."

And the Festivals aren't really meant to be played acoustically, rather run through the PA system. Most people shopping for an "acoustic/electric" want an electrified acoustic -- a Festival is more like an acoustified electric -- so will pass up an EA.

Looking at the recent marketplace, $150-$200 in Very Good condition, maybe more if it's got a fitted case.

Fjestad's Rule: few guitars will EVER get a value that's even 50% of MSRP (except by inflation). Most Washburns are undervalued, so even THAT can often be halved; in your example, that'd be 25% of $680, or $170.

A note of caution. The following is my experience, independently corroborated by some others.

The short version: an unplayed guitar will sound "new" for a long time.

With an acoustic guitar, & particularly a quality instrument with non-laminate components, the guitar NEEDS a "break-in" period. The glue is not 100% cured for quite come time after it leaves the bench, & regular play seems to let the adhesive "settle" properly as the wood vibrates. But after a few untouched years, the glue is entirely cured, & will not improve further.

As well, play "loosens up" the wood at a molecular level, shaking out dust of sap & minerals.

If a guitar has spent years hanging on the wall of a busy store, it's probably going to sound distinctly better than an identical model that's been cased.

Sometime back, I spoke with a guy (call him Ed) who'd launched an acoustic duo with his buddy. They both bought shiny new Martins, gigged around town a bit, then amicably parted ways when the friend went off to college, & Ed hit the road. A decade later, Ed was visiting his friend & asked about his guitar, which had been safely packed away in its case, untouched, while Ed's was battle-scarred, & Ed had the notion of replacement. He dropped that idea after a couple minutes of play: it sounded "stiff," harsh, overbright, while the tone of Ed's beat-up axe was full & rich. Instead, he bought the guitar, sold it to a "collector" for a hefty profit, & had his old guitar overhauled.

If I was doing regular gigs, & relying mainly on one acoustic, I might consider spending big on a new axe -- which I could have built to MY needs, rather than an off-the-shelf model. But the best-sounding guitars I've played have clearly had hundreds (if not thousands) of hours of play.

Guitar Care, Repair, Modification & Lutherie / Re: Sanding a WM100
« on: May 26, 2018, 11:19:18 PM »
There wasn't the whole "nitro fetish" thing going back in the '90s. The point of putting a finish on a guitar -- particularly a solidbody -- was to keep it looking pretty. I assume the final finish is a catalyzed polyester.

It could probably benefit from a light buff-out -- a polish, actually, unless there's scratches deep enough to feel, & you want to remove them. Properly, that means an orbital, pad, & polishing compound. Of course, you'll first have to remove EVERY last bit of hardware, which will take longer than the polishing.

Forum Tests / Re: Curiosity about this Bass
« on: May 15, 2018, 11:42:39 PM »
Welcome aboard! Sorry you won't hang around long, but we'll help out as best possible.

Firstly, put ALL notions out of your head that you've struck it rich -- a common delusion held by people who have never before owned a Washburn (or, often, a guitar). For instance, a prototype or one-off WOULD NOT have a series decal much less an engraved trussrod plate. It's from Red China, so fairly recent, as confirmed by the serial number (middle-2008, likely).

The "Aon" series seems to have been a short-lived experiment, though I have no idea what its purpose was; the only other model I can find in my notes was the AX3Q guitar (marked both as X Series & as AON) & that was only able to get $100.

The upper horn (ripping off Warwick) & the neck joint marks the AT16 as a Taurus variant. That tells me the "A" is a prefix attached before the prefix of another series.

Both appear to have been of decent quality, with some nice appointments, so possibly made up for some large retailer &/or for the months-long Xmas season, therefore never appearing in a Washburn catalogue or pricelist. Certainly not in the 2008 or 2009 catalogues.

Many Washburn models 1978-2018 have been short-lived, so that does very little to raise value; it's not uncommon that a fairly successful Washburn line had smaller production than the "limited editions" from other companies.

The AT16 will probably not be worth as much as a new T25 ($549) which has a thru-body neck AND active pickup system.

The problem with six-string basses is that most players who want a six-string bass tend to already have all they need. Main demand is for four-string, with a surprising minority graduating to five; most players find a six-string to simply be too heavy/bulky for regular stage use, therefore unnecessary expense. Overall, there's not a whole lot of demand, & those who want to try out a 6 can get a new Ibanez for as little as $300.

Still, you've got a very good instrument, apparently at a very good price. I hope you have many happy hours playing it. :)

Nope, not done yet with my fandom. 8)

Though presently asking $325, this is somewhat tempting. Oh, heck, I'll describe it first: a pre-Maverick "Billy T" (with BOTH series markings, yet) that looks a whole lot like a BT-2, & was Korea-made, & has original Grovers (unlike some of the pre-Mavs)

...but with gold hardware AND minibuckers.

The seller says its s/n begins with a 4, guessing it at 1994; he seems to know a little something about the model at least.

But what has me swaying is that the fretboard (which seller does say he oiled) sure looks a bit like ebony...  :o

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