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Messages - Tony Raven

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X Series / Re: need info
« on: Today at 01:13:57 AM »
Umm...  :( well...

If you don't know enough about guitars to differentiate a lefty from a righty, you should NOT be dealing in guitars.  ::)

From the model number alone, you have a left-handed X-20.

What a guitar is "worth" is what you can get for it, in a reasonable time, with reasonable effort. If it is in PERFECT condition (98%+), maybe $200, which means maybe $100 from your friendly local Guitar Center.

Festival Series / Re: Buzz Feiten
« on: April 14, 2018, 12:23:30 PM »
That "Captcha"-type stuff is supposed to go away after a few posts. It's intended to reduce having the board overwhelmed when a spambot figures out how to get past the signup process.

Wow, how the heck did I overlook this --
Mmmm... nope.  8)

The JB models were offered 2000-2004.

The Mavericks were around 1995-2002.

Announcements & News / Re: Shut It Down
« on: April 08, 2018, 03:55:32 PM »
Actually, I'd forgotten I posted an assessment more than a year ago --
Oxymorons rule, & right up there with "miltary intelligence" is "corporate wisdom." The new owners, rather than capitalizing on the sunk costs of the models they inherited, decided to clean house. Like, they stopped most of the Idols, & came up with "the New Idol" WIN Series which is nothing but a cheap MIC LP clone -- a cost-cutting blunder that's greatly damaged brands like ESP's LTD & PRS's SE series, further diluting value of once-great names. The short-lived "Original Idol" (a.k.a. "Classic Idol") WIDLXWISTD series was a cynical attempt to cash in on the fading Idol cachet without actually committing, using cheaper materials & generic hardware. "Cynical"? Here's an listing:
The Idol has been in the Washburn lineup since the '90s a testiment to its staying power, desirability and status amongst players of all levels. With its bold single cutaway style and dual humbucker layout, the Original Idol provides a stylish alternative to the cookie cutter guitars that litter the musical landscape. When you choose an Original Idol you make a statement that you're not just an ordinary guitar player and you've got something to say.
Another from Sweetwater --
Since the 1990s, Washburn's Idol lineup has been tearing up stages around the world. With the WIDLXSPLTD Original Idol, Washburn gives you a chance to own their first-gen-style solidbody electric guitar in all of its glory. If you're the kind of guitar player who's looking to break the cookie-cutter mold of passe solidbody designs, then it's time to call your Sweetwater Sales Engineer...
Can you imagine Fender deciding to end production of the Strat or Tele or Precision or Jazz? Will Gibson maybe end the LP or SG or 335? Yet time & again some new gaggle of non-guitarists buys the Washburn offices & kills off bankable success in favor of making a quick buck before pawning the brand off on someone else even more clueless.

Look how far traffic has declined on this site in the past five years alone. Seems like half the "members" to sign on since 2011 only hang around long enough to learn they haven't bought some super-valuable axe for $100. ::) Washburn is being forgotten except among the hardcores, & the day when catalogues featured dozens of big-name endorsers seem long past.

Oh, there's an upside: why should I even think about buying a NEW Washburn electric when there's so many great used ones drifting past, their asking price generally depressed by the brand's protracted suicide? The Idol series managed to provide just about anything from a good beginner guitar to some serious limited-run glory, & should have been a long-lived gem for the brand.

In another thread, I added to that --
Not everyone wants to looks like just another speed-metal teenager.  ::)

Instead of one Parallaxe after another, I'd hoped the new owners of Washburn would've gone back & cherrypicked a few models from (say) MG, BT, X, & WI, & gone seeking after endorsements & media exposure -- wow, remember the catalogues from the '90s & all the celebrity endorsers they used to have??  :o

IMO, the BT series was poorly marketed, & the X series was dragged down by the glut of X-10. At their peak, the Idols offered a nice range, IMO competing nicely with Epiphone LPs & SGs yet possessing unique touches, & the Tele-style WI-36 was an ingenious twist -- if they'd also done an s-s-s, it could've been an "evergreen" line.

When the spalt-top Idols appeared, I hoped this was a sign they were about to reinvigorate the "original Idol" line, but... alas.

Announcements & News / Re: Shut It Down
« on: April 08, 2018, 03:20:47 PM »
I think y'all mean moderator:) But, yah, I know what you mean.

I signed up six years back, & even though the place was a-hopping compared to NOW, even then I could see where it was a ghost of its former self.

Some people date the decline from when Rudy rolled Washburn into USMC (late 2002). I can see the point, & that IS when the excellent Maverick (BT) line was discontinued. :(

But I place it at the day Rudy sold USMC to JAM, officially August 24, 2009. The effects weren't fully felt until 2010, demonstrated by the cancellation of most guitar lines: Tabu, WV, Dan Donegan, Scott Ian, Nick Catanese, X Series, original Idol (WI), & most acoustics (D-, F-, J-, WB-).

Then in 2012 the Mundelein offices were closed, including the Custom Shop, & customer service went down the sewer. Someone told me there was a skeleton crew that tried to field calls as best they were able, but often knew little about the company or its products, & JAM really didn't give a damn about legacy stuff.

This site qualifies as legacy stuff. Feels as though it's being left to starve until it's empty enough to easily advocate pulling the plug.

I'm combing through & archiving some of the bits I've posted here, parts of which may find their way into Vintage Guitar & the Blue Book & Wikipedia & places like that.

As for "value," it's a good beginner instrument. Yours appears to be in good condition, & the MIJ doesn't hurt, but the fact is that very few modern instruments will be worth their original Suggested Retail Price in less than a century -- most, in fact, will never reach 40% of MSRP.

For country/folk instruments, those that hold good value tend to be the models with higher levels of decoration -- distinctive inlays, fancy binding, rarer wood -- or higher-quality hardware.

And unlike solid-body electric guitars & basses, acoustic instruments are highly subjective & can vary widely even between "identical" instruments.

Let me look to the market. At the moment, a new "beginner" tenor can be had for about USD $250. However, those are open-back, & yours has a resonator -- those are in the $500-$600 (street price, not MSRP) range. Once the repair/replace warranty expires, used value will be roughly $200-$300.

Once again to your B-10T. All in all, for insurance purposes a replacement value of USD $250 is not unreasonable. However, if by "value" you mean "what can I get for this on Kijiji," $250 is possible, but it will probably have to be a good-sounding instrument & have been properly adjusted by someone who knows a lot about banjos.

Washburn Parallaxe Series / Re: Grover locking tuners on PXL10EC
« on: March 29, 2018, 01:16:41 AM »
Guitarists are pretty much gullible. Many believe that there is silver content in their "nickel silver" frets. ::) Of course, they probably also believe they can get lead poisoning from getting poked with a pencil... :(

The problem is that the term "locking tuners" has two meanings. Nowadays, people think of some sort of mechanism in the string peg that locks the string in place, preventing slippage.

But the term is much older, & I think originated with Grover. What THEY are referring to is an "anti-backlash" design of the gears, which greatly reduced the slippage of the basic worm-&-gear design. Per Wikipedia --
...if the lead angle is small, the gear's teeth may simply lock against the worm's teeth, because the force component circumferential to the worm is not sufficient to overcome friction. ... Worm-and-gear sets that do lock are called self locking, which can be used to advantage, as when it is desired to set the position of a mechanism by turning the worm and then have the mechanism hold that position. An example is the machine head found on some types of stringed instruments.

All Rotomatics are of this improved design, therefore all Rotomatics are rightly called "locking."

FWIW, the "Washburn PRO" engraved-style plate is what I have on the Bantam BT-3 & BT-6 next to me, so in use at least ~1996-2000. The previous plates were that "cast look" style. The Bantams came after the Mercurys, with the remaining Mercury line cancelled 1996.

In any case, still very unlikely that anyone sane is going to counterfeit a mid-range 1990s import.

General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Re: A20 w/Wonderbar
« on: March 29, 2018, 12:23:52 AM »
I'm trying to find out if this was routed out for a trem style bridge or if it's solid and replaceable with an original hardtail.
I think the answer might be "neither." :o

The Wonderbar was a top-mount device, so not needing the rear spring cavity.

If the Wonderbar was original equipment, fitting a hardtail bridge to it is possible, but maybe not a simple"drop in"replacement.

Festival Series / Re: EA26 help
« on: March 11, 2018, 12:31:42 PM »
Actually, that looks like a dreadnought case. The Festival is not a dreadnought. The guitar must bounce around a lot in there. :o

#2 -- two similar-looking guitars from the same brand will likely never have identical numbers. Nowadays, most s/n use half their digits to indicate approximate manufacture date, which will take a century or more to repeat. It's possible that two entirely different models (but same brand) from different factories would have the same number, but one or both would have a prefix (one or two letters) to differentiate.

#1, part 1 -- there's never been anything particularly wrong with non-US guitars. Arai (Aria) in the 1950s found that acoustic guitars built in Japan, even if top-quality, would split & warp after a few months in the United States. Arai learned how to properly cure tonewood for long-term stability, a lesson quickly picked up by Japanese manufacturers in general. Converseley, there's plenty of low-end mass-production USA garbage (Harmony, Kay, Valco, etc.).

#1, part 2 -- new factories have "teething pains" as they work the "bugs" out of supply, construction, assembly, finish, & shipping. I consider Mexico Fenders to be as good as their USA twins, but early MIM Fenders are often worse than current $300 Squiers. Early Korea guitars & early Red China guitars, much the same. The sole exception might be Indonesia, & that mostly because MII guitars are almost certainly Cort, who opened a huge factory there in the '90s.

Korea Washburn electrics ~1996-2010 are generally great guitars, & their market value seems to creep up daily.

Overall, an early-run guitar might beat the jinx & still be an incredible instrument, so it's not damning... but anyone who buys blind (without actually playing the guitar first) & pays "collectible" prices is foolish.

In reality, YOU ripped the wires out from cranking insanely on a knob that most players rarely touch, which was so loose it would've fallen into the guitar if the knob had let go.  ::)

You say there are two wires "out of place"... you fail to mention what is each one still attached to?

In many standard three-pickup electric guitars (except the Strat), the pickups run to a switch, the switch runs to the potentiometers, the potentiometers run to the output jack. In almost all other cases, it's pickup --> pots --> switch --> jack. There are diagrammes all over the Internet. As you get no sound at all, you likely either broke the connection to the jack or the switch.

If you tore a wire out of a pickup, it may be beyond your abilities to repair.

First, check the solder lugs on the Tone pot & the switch & maybe output jack to see where there's solder that looks a little ripped up or shiny.

Are you familiar with the term "pig in a poke"? :o

If you can't afford to gamble, then DON'T GAMBLE.

If you can't tell me how it feels when you play it, then I cannot hope to tell you "whether it's worth it."

It's good guitar. That's a reasonable price... barring a twisted neck or messed-up wiring or significantly worn frets.

It might need a full setup, ~$50 USD. Maybe a new nut.

No, you're NOT going to get rich flipping it. You might be able to resell it for that price.

Washburn Dealers Section / Re: Washburn WM100 value!!?
« on: February 23, 2018, 11:42:16 PM »
The Eternal Question...  ::)

The Eternal Answer: it's worth whatever you can get for it... in the timeframe you want... with what effort you'll exert.

FWIW, it's NOT "Custom Shop." It was a small USA production run. There's a difference..

Realistically, I've seen these sell for $500-$600, IF the original hard case is included.

The WM-100/WM-STD retailed at $1,699. Looking at Blue Book, I'd put "value" (for insurance purposes) at $700-$800. But there's no market demand for it, & the Maverick line never had any significant endorsers.

If you market it actively for a few years, you might get that $700. If you want to sell it in the foreseeable future, you can expect $350-$450.

General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Re: LT-92 for sale
« on: February 19, 2018, 11:47:27 AM »
I suppose it's possibly the real thing, though at closest it'd be a Mundelein-modded LT-92.

But the credibility of the seller is... oh, hell, he is a total moron. ;D
Sought after Grover neck
In the photos, I can't even verify I'm seeing Grover tuners.

A dual-rail Duncan in the bridge, but I wouldn't take at face value that the others are also SD.

The serial number bothers me. Was Washburn using a Gibson-type presser in the Custom Shop?

Probably a decent guitar (Jackson-era, right?) but IMO overpriced at $650 unless in at least +95% condition (no dings at all!!), with original branded HSC, & provenance paper (at least a sales slip).

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