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Messages - YerDugliness

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I don't want to spam up your forum board with a duplicate post, so please visit my original post on the Acoustic Guitar board, and if you can offer advice I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks, folks! Here's the thread link:,26819.0.html

Cheers!...and thanks in advance for any help you can provide, I really am clueless (as you'll realize once you read the thread!).

Dugly 8)

OK, guys 'n' gals, I have decided that I have enough juiced acoustic guitars that I really do need to get an amp.

I have "chatted" with the technical support department of a few online music equipment retailers and they have all told me that what I want just doesn't here is what I was hoping for (doesn't sound too unreasonable to me, but what do I know...obviously NOTHING, that's why I am asking for advice):

I would like a single small amp so that I won't need a trailer to do solo gigs.

I would like for the amp to have separate inputs for a microphone and for a single instrument (one of my juiced acoustic guitars or my Epiphone ES335 copy, called a "Dot")

I really prefer the sound of Class A (Tube amps) over Solid State, so I'd like for the amp to be a tube type.

I don't need a large speaker, so a small speaker (6.5"-8" would be fine, I think) seems advisable. I am not going to be playing large venues, just small bars, that sort of thing. The larger bars have a PA system into which I can and do already plug in.

You'd think I had asked for the moon and the stars to hear the advice I got from online retailers.

What do you all use? I can't imagine I'd ever want to use distortion or pedals or any of that stuff...just make my guitar and my voice loud enough to be heard over the din.

So...what are you using, folks?

Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can offer!


Dugly 8)

Washburn Dealers Section / Re: Mint Cherry HB50 for sale UK based
« on: April 20, 2017, 07:22:27 PM »
Take a look on the "General Discussion" the "stickies" at the top you will find a thread authored by our member "t.y."

I would like to see the photos...not sure I am a buyer considering you are in the U.K.


Dugly 8)

Festival Series / Re: Cleaning and care advice
« on: April 07, 2017, 02:07:50 PM »
If your Festival uses that type of pins, then yes, you would insert the ball end of the string through the hole in the bridge and then insert the pins, making sure that the string remains in the groove on the pin, until they feel like they "bottom out". Then you'd pull on the string gently to snug the ball end up against the bridge plate on the underside of the soundboard...but be careful because they can get hung up on the end of the pin as you try to tune them up. I always bend the ball end of the string a little bit so it will slip past the end of the pin that has been inserted into the bridge.

Yeah...I did misunderstand. Yours is a very common way to install the just have to do it for twice as many.

Just curious, did your 12 string Festival come with a case? A lot of Washburn 12-string guitars have heads that are so long that it is hard to find a case into which the head will fit. If yours has a case, you're very lucky!

Glad to hear it's going to work out. Evenkeel has done a lot of instrument care and you can certainly follow his advice.

One mentioned a chicklet saddle? Be careful to look carefully and remember the orientation and location of each of the chicklets...get them reversed or out of order and the intonation will be all messed up.

If you're looking for a bone strap button, you couldn't do better than going through Bob Colosi at

He can make you end pins, too...and match your bone strap button to your current endpins if you already have some you like. I use his "West African Hard Ivory" products almost exclusively, but they are expensive and of course you don't dare to take the guitar out of the U.S. or you may not get it through customs on the way back. Things may be a bit different over on your side of the pond, though.


Dugly 8)


Festival Series / Re: Cleaning and care advice
« on: April 06, 2017, 11:23:28 PM »
Nice guitar, beautiful wood!

Yeah...that strap button looks like it is in a very unlikeable location...on the underside of the "heel" of the neck would seem to be better.

As for stringing the guitar, we would need to see a photo of the bridge. Most acoustics just have the strings installed through the bridge, but some solid body ellectrics use "through body" string locations. The one photo that we need to answer your question was not in your group of photos.

Having said that...the Festival series is very "thin', which would make it very difficult to get your hand inside the body to bring them up through the "front" (the soundboard of the guitar) and through the underside of the bridge. If I were a betting man I'd put my money on bringing them through holes in the bridge on the side nearest the butt end of the guitar, over the saddle and on over the nut at the top of the neck on their way to the tuning pegs on the I understanding your question correctly?


Dugly 8)

Duplicate post...erased, my apologies!!

Dugly 8)

I did a google image search for the D-11 and agree, the V-head, the rosette, and the grain pattern (it looks very much like the wood is ash) all resembled a D-11/AN (the AN probably stands for "ash/natural finish"... the D-11 was made in a large number of finishes).

I do not facebook and so I could not see the facebook link you provided very well (it would only display for a second or two and then some sort of Facebook ad would obscure the image), but ash is a very distinctively grained wood and I'd bet a paycheck I'm right after looking at the google images.

Good luck with your search...I would speculate most of us who have played for any amount of time at all have had guitars stolen (I have had two stolen) and we know how much it sucks...I hope yours turns up and you get it back intact!

Dugly 8)

Yaaaay!!! It worked!!

It is a very nicely preserved old parlor guitar...a couple of our historians who specialized in parlors have recently "retired" or otherwise ceased posting here, but we do still have a couple of knowledgable members, so let's hope they will join in with more info than I have.

It certainly looks like Brazillian Rosewood and some of the older parlors were built with Braz...and despite a few dings and gouges it definitely looks original, right down to the machine heads. Definitely a nice find!!

Glad you got the photos up...thanks. I have never seen (or even heard of) a Conservatory model, so it may be a rare piece. Let's see what others have to say.


Dugly 8)

Nope...https codes don't seem to work. All I get is a three lobed figure with a spinning marker inside...I let it spin for 5 minutes before i exited the thread, never did build any photos.

Does Shutterfly provide an IMG code? Those seem to work every time.

Cheers...and good luck!

Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Just Beautiful... in my opinion anyway...
« on: April 02, 2017, 02:57:56 PM »
SiR POPaTOP, you can take whatever Tony says to the bank, he's one of our most knowledgable members!

Just a quick note about terminology...the bridge is the piece of wood that is glued to the top of the guitar and through which the strings go...the piece of white material that fits into the slot in the bridge and on top which the strings course is called the saddle...that piece of paper is between the e-string and the saddle. The reason I mention it is that a guitar on which the bridge needs to be raised is probably in need of some serious work, for the reasons I mentioned. If, however, Tony is right about the problem being a saddle that has been sanded down too much in an effort to get the "action" lower, well, that is a much less involved process. I have replaced the factory plastic saddles on all of my guitars with either bone or West African Hard Ivory and the cost to do that is quite reasonable...around $50 or so for just the part and labor. The issue of whether your top is bowed or your saddle was shaved too much is one which can easily be determined by a luthier or a GOOD shop technician...and the best result you can hope for is that the saddle is the culprit. For probably less than $100 you can have a good shop tech replace your (most likely) plastic saddle with a bone saddle, install new strings and do a set-up. If, however, your top is bowed (and just my guess, I doubt it because your soundboard is laminate and therefore less likely to bow than a solid wood top) you will need a much more involved repair and one that (again, just my opinion) should be handled by a luthier and will likely cost significantly more.

Having it evaluated by a shop tech should be either free or cost very little, so I say have the evaluation done so you know which is the real problem and then come back to this thread and let us know what you found out. If it just needs a new saddle it won't be too expensive and a bone saddle replacement is probably the most suggested way of improving the tone of your guitar. If the top is bowed in the repair may well be expensive enough that it might be better to sell it as a "distressed" guitar and look for a different one. Only you can make that decision, based on how much you paid for it and how much the repair costs versus the value of the guitar.

Tony is quite correct...Washburn guitars do not hold their value like Gibsons or Martins...sad, but true.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Just Beautiful... in my opinion anyway...
« on: April 02, 2017, 12:34:05 PM »
No...HSC is guitarspeak for "Hard-Shell Case", which it looks like (from the photos you posted) you do have. When Washburn includes a hard-shell case the model number usually caries a "K" designation at the end...the label inside the body of my C124SWK does. I tried to enlarge the photo on which your label was visible, but it was too blurry to read. Just curious...does yours have the model designatd as "D49SPK" on the label?

[EDIT-take a look at your Certificate of Authenticity, you will see that the model designation is "D49SPK", so that is what the label inside your guitar will say, too...and, as well, it indicates the case shown in your pics is the OHSC...the "O" stands for "Original".]

I have never seen a certificate of authenticity like that before...number 18 is quite early in the production run and establishes the guitar without question as part of a limited production run. If you ever sell the guitar make sure you include that will probably help you get a decent price. I do not think the small tear on the certificate would have any negative impact on the price. my humble opinion you have a very beautiful and desirable guitar!

You did say that you think it needs to have the bridge lifted. Guitars are quite sensitive to humidity (although the laminate guitars are less so than the all solid wood guitars) and bowing of the top can be a sign it needs humidifying. I suggest you get a soundhole humidifier, tune it down half a step, and humidify it inside its HSC for a few days...that might get rid of the problem. If it does not, I suggest you send it to Washburn for repair (it will not have a warranty unless you purchased it new from an authorized Washburn dealer)...or you could have it repaired by a luthier. It is possible one of the braces under the bridge of the guitar has popped loose, allowing the tension of the strings to bow the top. It is such a nice piece that I would not trust just any ol' shop tech with it.


Dugly 8)

Your picture stream does not work...take a look in the "stickies" at the top of the General Discussion the bottom of the stickies is a tutorial authored by our member t.y. on how to include photos in your posts.

Washburn made some fine parlor guitars...and still does. If yours has Braz rosewood it may be of significant value..or not. We do have some members with significant knowledge of the older parlors.

Cheers...and good luck getting the info you requested. One question...have you used the search function? Your answer may already be available.

Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Just Beautiful... in my opinion anyway...
« on: March 30, 2017, 07:50:52 PM »
You are welcome!

All that gorgeous figuring in the grain of the wood is caused by a fungus that invades the maple tree. In the process the fungus weakens the wood, too. That is why you will probably never see spalted maple on anything other than a laminated product, as your instrument is...anything other than a laminated instrument would self-destruct due to the weakened nature of spalted maple.

I have GAS'ed for a spalted maple instrument since the first time I saw one...but despite the fact that the guitars are all laminate pieces, they are quite expensive, due no doubt to the scarcity of spalted maple. Washburn produces a CE spalted maple model, which I think is what I will eventually end up with...that is IF I ever buy another dread-size guitar...I srongly prefer my smaller bodied guitars, particularly my WMJ (Washburn Mini Jumbo???) models.

Now if Washburn would make a MJ, a GO (Grand Orchestra) or a GA (Grand Auditorium) spalted maple guitar I'd write the check so fast it would make your head spin...and I readily admit I already own TOO MANY guitars.

Lucky YOU!



The links to your photos aren't building...probably the wrong photo "code"

Here is a tutorial from our General Discussion board that explains how to get the photos to appear in your posts:,21807.0.html

The only way is to use a photo hosting website, as I understand it.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Just Beautiful... in my opinion anyway...
« on: March 29, 2017, 04:20:16 PM »
It's spalted maple...absolutely gorgeous!


Dugly 8)

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