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Messages - Tony Raven

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You asked a question, an answer was offered, you disagreed, you answered the question yourself to your satisfaction.

Kinda "case closed" there. ;)

Aside from that, it's clearthat there's less than a half-dozen of us around here who scan most/all of the forums. The rest are very specialized (like Nuno fans). Once we lose interest, it can't help but go dim.

Such things don't move too quickly around here. In particular, much of the board is geared for curent-production models -- & by "current" I mean "ten years ago." ???

Suggestion: go to the ELectric Guitars forum & start a thread or more. Get at least 15 owner/players to contribute regularly. (In business, we call that "proof of concept.) THEN ask about creating another subforum.

Well... nah. ;) The video still maintains all sorts of myth. For instance, the usual "140-year tradition" nonsense, even though there were ZERO "Washburn" instruments made between ~1942 & 1974 or thereabouts. It even skims right past the founding partnership: Lyon was the business side, Healy the instrument side; it was only after the former retired that the latter expanded L&H significantly.

And there were TWO fires, one being that which gutted downtown Chicago.

The modern Washburn Guitars can barely keep up with ITS OWN build records from RECENT years. :o SInce Schlacher left, some have noted a distinct decline in Customer Service depth; they might be happy to read off the "140 years" propaganda, but I doubt anyone's been schooled in the actual history... or could even be bothered to check Wikipedia.

Vintage and Rare Washburns / spotted: Beckmen "Washburn"
« on: October 21, 2017, 03:01:09 PM »
I'm not saying that the Beckmen inports are particularly great guitars, especially the lower-number models... BUT you don't see many on the market, & they're of interest to serious fans of Washburn Guitars.

This seems to be a 260. It's up to $52, s/h will be ~$50, there's a bit more than three days left for bids.

Hollowbody & Jazz Series / Re: HB35 very dark sounding
« on: October 16, 2017, 10:33:55 PM »
So, any updates on the Great Capacitor Miracle? ;)

Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Re: D10F-SB
« on: October 16, 2017, 09:57:01 PM »
The "F" is a new one on me. Lacking photos, I found a secondary source that says it signifies a flame-maple veneer (which seems to like up with Washburn's use of "Q" for quilt maple).

Hollowbody & Jazz Series / Re: New J6 owner
« on: October 15, 2017, 12:26:14 PM »
A truly great model, IMO worth far more than the $600 (+/- $150) they sell for.

It's one of the longest-lived Washburn models, running 1989-2004. I can't remember which tailpiece came first, but my (increasingly foggy ;)) memory says the "W" is most recent. Possibly it's an '89, but mostly I think you're right with '92.

Stereo output? Yah, maybe, though I'd guess it was for recording work, with one pickup right to the board & the other to a monitor amp or phones. (If I had to run a stereo output cross-stage, it'd be with a single stereo cord.) Even atthat, I'd still consider putting a low-Z pickup in for recording, but to each his own.

But don't fall for gear hype. There's all sorts of superstitious claptrap about Magical Capacitors -- Orange Drops, Bumblebees, Tropical Fish, gevalt!! -- & it's entirely BS. For 40+ years, I've replaced the common brown ceramic disks because it's not unusual for the darned things to shatter; my replacements have been green Mylars, because they're common & cheap & reliable. Anyone who pays an upcharge for a part worth less than a dollar is a fool who maybe SHOULD be parted from his money. 8)

To date, I have yet to meet a player who can tell by ear whether a pickup is a Lover-spec PAF or a new Artec, or detect any sonic difference between Alnico V & Alnico II. They are far less likely to tell the difference between capacitors... & the fact is that 98% of players don't fiddle with the guitar's Tone knob anyway. (IMO, most players would do better to remove the control entirely: less noise AND clearer sound.)

I've been told by "oldschool" jazz players that a proper jazzbox ought to be strung with .012 flatwounds. In any case, stuffing in the same boring usual overpriced overhyped pickups would be nuts, as those units are almost always designed to be stuck in a solid slab of wood ~1.75" thick. A "hot" pickup is only going to make a jazzbox sound boomy, & that's why players go online to fripe about how the guitar sucks ::) because of course it can't be THEIR fault for being clueless.

N Series (Nuno Bettencourt) / Re: Early N2 serial number.please help.
« on: October 14, 2017, 10:58:04 AM »
I've never seen a seven-digit serial number on a Washburn instrument. Six or eight, sure. If the first two digits are indeed "10-" I would be more inclined to guess it at 2010.

It's highly unlikely that ANY modern Washburn instrument had 1,170 units made in a single year. Any such would likely be low-end guitars -- in other words, maybe for an N1, but probably not for an N2.

And the hardcore Nuno fans can correct me on this one, but my experience is that electric guitars from early in the run tend to have many more little problems than those from a few years down the road. If you're going to actually PLAY the N2 rather than being yet another get-rich-quick "collector," I can't say I'd recommend an early version, especially if you're going to be paying anything near (or above) Blue Book.

Oh, yeh: value. Per the Book, it might be as much as $650 in near-perfect condition (not a single swirl mark much less a scratch) & original case (also near-perfect). HOWEVER, the reality is that 99.99% of players who want an N2 already own an N2, & are happy that way, & therefore there's not much of a resale market. The "naked natural" ones can readily be found at $400 & less.

it may be necessary for a change to the wikki entry
Already done; I take my job seriously. 8)

{Ugh -- the stuff that happens when my browser locks up during a reply... :-[ Let's go again:}

the Yairi connection to Washburn was likely a quote from the inaccurate article that was published in Premier Guitar.
Yah, though I don't have my notes handy, that is likely where I got the notion. Corrections will be made.

That photo is highly instructive!! I never would have thought that a factory would install the frets in a neck that's already been bound. :o (As much as I like the look & the feel of a bound neck, they are sometimes a total PITA to refret.)

Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Re: D-30S dating help
« on: October 14, 2017, 02:36:20 AM »
O heavens, thank you so much, MBC_Jon!!! And please pass along my thanks to the estimable Mr Smith, upon whose wisdom I often rely, not least for steering the Wikipedia article.

Many people seem to believe that Washburn serial numbers are like those of the electrics from Gibson (stamped on at manufacture) or Fender (decal under clearcoat at manufacture). As Mr Smith has previously said, many Washie models do not last beyond their initial order of 200 units; if sales are slow, a given guitar might be stamped a year or even two past its actual date of manufacture.

Then there's the model number. I work in a plant that makes transit buses. It's not rare that (say) a critical engine part winds up languishing amongst various brake-assembly components because a number was poorly printed & the stock people diligently went with what it looked like.

So, my suspicion was that your D36 might have had a messed-up "0" in there, whether when printed or mis-read by whoever printed the label.

In any case, a truly lovely guitar, & I hope it sounds at least as good. :) I'm a fan of ebony fretboards, but own only one, a bass -- make sure it gets some lemon oil. ;) (Ebony has a bad habit of splitting.)

Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Help identifying
« on: October 11, 2017, 09:33:35 PM »
Just a wild guess, but it sounds like an oldie. Offhand, I can't think of any 1978+ Washburn acoustics that have an unbranded headstock.

P.S. -- know how they did that abalone logo? It's a trick used by Austin about the same time. They carve a shallow slot in the headstock face, glue down the "inlay" material, then silkscreen the logo over the top of it. The result looks much like inlay, but takes very little work.

It's possible that it was a one-off upgrade from the Custom Shop, for someone who wanted a bolt-neck rather than a set-neck (WM). But I've never seen a trussrod cover like that.

The abalone is over-the-top. I seriously doubt someone would "upgrade" the logo like that!!

What leads me to believe it's the Real Thing? Count the frets. :o

Is it worth gazillions of $$$? Oh, HECK no. :P It's still a BT, albeit a rather cool one. Maybe $500, tops.

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