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Messages - Tony Raven

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HM Series / Re: HM-20V for sale with original hard case
« on: August 14, 2018, 09:19:51 PM »
Last Active: December 26, 2014, 06:37:42 PM

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: MG-154
« on: August 12, 2018, 01:40:56 PM »
Always nice to see an actual cap rather than the usual "pretty pretty!" veneer.  ::)

I've been a fan of the "D" shape since '74 when I got my Univox High Flyer (still have it, too). It got pushed aside for years because of the "thinner is faster" nonsense.

General Discussion / Re: Trying to find out info. Help!
« on: August 05, 2018, 02:00:06 PM »
I can't find references to that model. Blue Book mentions only the D-6S (2010).

Washburn has for many years used the model number as an approximate indicator of value. The D-10 family has become a sort of industry standard for what a good inexpensive "beginner" acoustic ought to be; your D-6 is a couple of steps down, in terms of materials & components.

From curiosity: is your guitar some sort of "centennial" edition, or is it a cutaway with piezo pickup?

It's brought up once in awhile.

Now it's been resurrected, some points of clarification...

I believe with 2 different woods for the front face?
No. It's a cedar top.

Another thread says it's a parlor-size guitar. No, it isn't.

A run of 2,000 isn't particularly "limited," much less rare. As Jim Smith Jr has stated, many Washburn models (particularly acoustics) were ordered in runs of only 200 units, & it wasn't unusual that a first run was also the last.

By ordering a run of 2,000, Washburn bets it can get "collectors" (flippers, really) to snap 'em up in hopes of getting rich in a few years, thus greatly reducing Washburn's marketing costs & eliminating need for warehousing, so further increasing profit margin. The tactic was used annually in the '90s with the "LTD" series. This "hit & run" approach also means the models weren't in the annual catalogues, & almost never on published price lists. Therefore, few outsiders have retrospective access to any specs.

Good guitars? Certainly. But, IME, the only people who trumpet the "rarity" of these guitars are hoping to inflate the price they get

Travel Series including The Rover / Re: New Rovers!
« on: July 31, 2018, 04:31:31 PM »
Very few Washburns have ever been made that used sawn wood without putting the "S" or "SW" in the model number. Lacking that, bet on plywood -- "When you hear hoofbeats, assume horses, not zebras."

Spalt maple is wood that has been attacked by a fungus. Though it makes for some unique (often beautiful) marking, the cellular damage makes the wood structurally unsound -- I suppose it's possible to make a top from spalt wood, but this would be so labor-intensive as to be unsuitable for mass-produced instruments, & certainly much more expensive than the Rovers.

Solid-body guitars have less structural need, but the only production guitar I'm aware of with a spalt-maple slab top (rather thick, too) was the Kona KE55.

Thanks for a heads-up on the article -- I'll check it out.

As for logins, my experience is to AVOID the login box at the upper-right. Though I've been here for years, it sometimes tries to make me do the verification thing, AND is likely to log me out while I'm writing a response (often losing what I wrote). Instead, use the Login tag on the command bar right above the Topic area -- it's rock-stable.

Any "best strings" suggestion depends on lots of factors.
  • Foremost, has it been properly set up? Unless the trussrod is properly set, the intonation accurate, the frets in good shape, & the string height proper, the guitar might be difficult to play properly.
  • How do you pick? Do you primarily flatpick or fingerpick or maybe use bare fingers? If a manufactured pick, how heavy?
  • Are you primarily a soloist or chorder? Open strings or barre?
  • What's your main musical genre?
  • Where will you be playing? Mostly at home for your own enjoyment, or regular club gigs, or something between?
For example, some players like their strings as "bright" as possible, while others prefer to play new strings awhile to "break them in" a little & not be so rich in the upper registers.

General Discussion / Re: used Washburns on the market
« on: July 15, 2018, 01:35:33 PM »
To the handful of people (as opposed to adbots & scammers ::)) who still read this site, my apologies for not keeping up with this thread. I'll eventually clear out the dead links.

A WI64M3, $200. An unusual variant, nice red "crackle" finish.

If you'd like to add a great Tele clone to your arsenal, the WI-36 is unique: basically a Gibson-scale Tele with a mahogany body. On this one, the butterscotch blonde finish is quite nice, as is the $150 tag.

A nice red hss Shadow Series WS-6 (with, naturally, Grover Rotomatics), a mere $70.

As I've often said, "the market" is populated with fools. There are all sorts of Mavericks littering the landscape, prices continue to slide, yet people will pay more for a beat-up Fender Affinity than for a sweet Maverick.

Don't see many of these, especially at this price: a BT-3 in cherry sunburst, $80 (+$60 s/h). Sometimes the "clown paint" CSB looks pretty good.

If you don't mind black, you can get a BT-3 for twenty bucks less.

I'm being responsible, paying down my credit cards. Naturally, highly desirable Washies appear at bargain prices. A month back, I pointed up an eBay listing for a two-HB BillyT. The pre-Mavericks often had generic diamond-can tuners & other corner-cuts. However, this BillyT (basically an early BT-2) had some unique attributes:
  • gold hardware
  • Grovers
  • mini-humbuckers (metal cans like the old Firebirds)
Well, save me from myself -- here's another, $130 + $55.

A few others catch my eye. While it's $281, that's not bad for Washburn's short-lived RS-10V, a PRS clone but with Rose bridge. Even the series prefix is begging for a lawsuit, but it gives you the Standard 24 config AND the discontinued classic short neck heel AND higher build quality (& significantly lower price) than the SEs AND a vibrato too.

Finally, the one I hate walking away from: D-46SCE. I am proud to own a D-46CESPK, but I've always wondered how much better the spruce-top version would be. Making it tough is the recent price drop to... $180. :o

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: My Washburn lyon series WE2
« on: July 15, 2018, 12:37:26 PM »

IME, not quite so good as the subsequent Shadow Series models (which have Grovers), but still a higher-quality guitar. I think the Lyon Series was actually spun off as "Lyon by Washburn," intended to get the parent brand out into large retailers (particularly Canada). My guess is that these clones were short-lived because cheaper (& lower quality) clones swamped them. (The Shadows were soon dropped in favor of the unique Mavericks.)

General Discussion / Re: is this worth $100 (stupid question)
« on: July 07, 2018, 11:42:20 AM »
Like "Special Edition," "Pro" is nothing but a marketing gimmick. Moreso when it's stamped on a neckplate that's easily removed & maybe could be placed on a non-Pro model to jack up the price. :o

The BT-3 is interesting, being essentially a Strat with a shorter Gibson-length scale. In four decades, Washburn has produced very few s-s-s models at all (fewer than 20).

Aside from the CSB, it was available in black, Ivory (white), red, & Tiffany Blue. The BT-3 was offered 1997 ($333.90) & 1998 ($349.90); the blue & CSB were only available 1998. I see more black than anything; very few red, only a handful of blue.

Festival Series / Re: model J30SCEB
« on: June 30, 2018, 07:02:16 PM »
That is unusual enough that I would have to boot it up to someone with far more knowledge than me.

If you don't have a great guitar shop nearby -- a place that deald primarily in quality acoustics -- there are a few online options. My first recommendation would be Elderly Instruments; they charge $50, & will send you an actual written appraisal, the sort of thing that'd hold up in court. ;)

Even better might be Gruhn Guitars, though they charge $75.

But if you want to know what it might actually sell for, rather than just what it's "worth" (in a perfect world, under ideal circumstances), you can check with actual auction houses. I've been treated well by Heritage Auctions, who regularly have guitar auctions, & are in the business to make money so will be blunt about what you might realistically get for it.

Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-14-AB???
« on: June 30, 2018, 06:45:40 PM »
These pop up once in a while --

With a low model number, it probably started life as a "beginner" guitar; Blue Book says retail price was $350 its last year (1992).

The last two letters are probably for color; I'd guess Amber Brown.

Unless there's an "-S-" after the model number, it's very unlikely to have a solid-wood top.

The D15S was sold 1998-2000. Blue Book puts final retail at $599, & value at maybe $500 in perfect condition, or about $350 in Excellent.

The D-14 was pretty much replaced by the D-10; a D-10S (spruce top) retailed for $350l, & the current WLD10S has a street price of $299 new.

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: The Washburn LS-103 and LS-93
« on: June 30, 2018, 06:26:48 PM »
Oh, wow.  :o

Isn't that one of the rarer Washburns? I've seen the catalogue, but that's the very first time I've seen one "in the wild."

As you say, it's a D-10N, a basic dreadnought in natural finish. The top is laminate (plywood) unless the model number contains "S" or "SW."

Well, the downer is that nobody here has access to production numbers, & in any case for a standard model the company's records won't have much detail either. Yours probably left the factory April 1998. Since then, quality of entry-level instruments has risen even as prices have dropped, so there's not so much demand for a used D-10, even two decades old.

What exactly do you mean by "how much"? If you want to buy one, I can point you to listings $100-$150. For most individual looking to sell a guitar, they're fortunate to get 40%-60% of current market price, so at best you could maybe get like $90.

The one style of guitar I do not own is the LP, though I have other guitars (like the Lyon LPT-24) with the TOM bridge, & really ought to upgrade, as the biggest problem is too little room for intonation adjustment, & I usually wind up with one E imperfect.

Have you measured the post-to-post widths (on centers)? Standard Gibson spacing is supposed to be 2-29/32". The problem usually occurs on stud size: Gibson used M5 studs, but most copies use M8. So long as it's the same on center, you might have to pull the bushings & press in new ones to fit the studs.

If I was going to upgrade a good guitar, my first try would be Schaller.

I liked their Nashville as soon as I saw it, a straight-up improvement on the now-classic TOM.

Schaller also makes a roller-saddle version. These have the added advantage of adjustable side-to-side string spacing (like older Gretsch).

The Schaller I've been wanting to try is their Signum. The design looks to possibly improve tonal curve & sustain.

You might also consider the GraphTech NW2 ResoMax or the Gibson TP-6.

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