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Messages - Tony Raven

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1
Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Re: Force 8 Bass
« on: January 09, 2019, 02:41:50 AM »
And let me guess. The one you talk about when it comes to the reciept was a Hohner or Lotus build by Moridaira?
Umm... hi? ???

This is a site concerned with Washburn guitars.

You might note from my signature that I own multiple Washburn guitars. The rest of my collection isn't listed, for what I hope is a glaringly obvious reason.

It wouldn't be too much of a leap to assume that I am specifically here speaking about Washburn guitars (though my 2005 Lyon has an eight-digit s/n, fwiw).

Point of comparison: Fender (including Squier) has apparently never had a "month digit," & didn't even indicate year until 1976. Epiphone's vendors have been shown to have used one- AND two-digit years (same year, same factory), & at least one doesn't use ANY month code.

To repeat myself, there is no good reason to believe that there is some "secret code" built into EVERY serial number -- it's NOT like a VIN.

2
Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Re: Force 8 Bass
« on: January 09, 2019, 02:13:52 AM »
If a six-digit serial number were to give up its first two digits to indicate year, that would indeed leave four digits -- 10,000 units -- for the entire year.

Note, however: there is no indicator of month, so claiming "500 a month" is impossible to substantiate & therefore imaginary.

If (as widely believed) there are two "year digits" followed by two "month digits," that leaves two serial digits, meaning that only 100 units -- yymm00 through yymm99 -- could be produced without repeating numbers.

If there is a single-digit year, then it has never been established whether the following TWO digits indicate month, or the following ONE digit indicates month somehow, though I have in the past pointed out that a very few industrial manufacturers were comfortable with a ten-"month" year).

Please specify which of these scenarios you are attempting to substantiate, & then stick with it.

3
The "S-" prefix indicates Samick, probably Korea.

The next two digits say 2010.

The "WIN" versions are worth substantially less than the comparable "WI." The WINSTD & WINDLX had bound tops; the WIN14F was only available in trans red.

That conclusively leaves the WIN14, comparable to the earlier WI-14, the bottom rung of the Idols, though with a balsa body.

"single cutaway basswood body, bolt-on maple neck, 22-fret rosewood fingerboard with pearl dot inlays, black headstock overlay with pearl logo and design inlay, three-per-side tuners, tune-o-matic bridge, stop tailpiece, two exposed humbucker pickups, four knobs (two v, two tone), three-way pickup switch, chrome hardware, available in Black, Walnut Satin, or White finish, 24.75 in. scale"

4
The best I can suggest is to contact Sweetwater or World Music Supply, and see if there is even a mechanism for them to order a left-handed version.

5
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: D-30-SN (cedar/bird's eye maple)
« on: January 06, 2019, 05:00:45 PM »
(Damned software ate my post...)

I have a couple of electrics from the same era, & their numbers are typed on small strips of white tape, affixed to the back of the headstock. Not unusual that these fell off or were removed at some point.

Any numbers written on wood are control numbers for the component (neck or body assembly) & say nothing about the finished instrument.

6
Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Re: Force 8 Bass
« on: January 06, 2019, 04:38:38 PM »
Well, since the TROLL has seen fit to resurrect this zombie thread, I might as well comment.

I disagree about the year supposedly indicated in the s/n. Generally, ten-digit numbers use the first two digits for year & the next two for month, but I have seen two impossibilities, so grain-of-salt. Eight-digit numbers usually have a two-digit year, though I have seen the one-digit year.

Shorter numbers run out of room to be useful as serial numbers. If a six-digit s/n gave up its first four spaces for year/month, that would leave only TWO to count, so they'd only have been able to make 100 Washburns in that month, which seems unlikely. So, the first digit indicates year, & there may be no month counter.

Plenty of MIJ models used a four-digit s/n. I have no confidence in this as a year indicator; in one instance, the owner had a receipt showing that the s/n (taken literally) indicated it was built two years AFTER he bought it. :o Even if it appears acccurate, that means the vendor could only have counted 1,000 Washburns in the entire YEAR before repeating numbers.

The value of Force basses is all over the place. Like so many great Washburn models, they're mostly forgotten, so there's no demand, so prices collapse. A striking BBR Force 8 has been sitting on Reverb.com for 2+ years at $650; a Force 5 ABT can't catch $275.

FWIW, I've heard most Force are Daion/Yamaki; though I'm not yet fully convinced, I have to admit they've got some familiar design quirks.

7
D10 Series / Re: Where was my D10 made?
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:59:17 PM »
I'm uncertain. 1988 is rather late for Japan builds. As well, a ten-digit s/n is unusual for Japan vendors.

8
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: washburn d60sw timber ridge...
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:42:47 PM »
With a six-digit serial, it's more likely the first indicates year, so I'd guess 1988.

9
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn W400 ....where?
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:35:02 PM »
It's a Beckmen Music model. Beckmen owned the brand name 1974-1977.

10
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-68sw
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:30:57 PM »
Did you ever get that quote? Around here, $10/fret is considered a bargain.

The good news is that very few guitars need to have ALL the frets replaced. Pull three or five of the worst, level the rest, replace the bad ones with lower-crown fretwire, & finish up with a crown & polish.

11
Having used nothing analogous :) my first guess is impedance mismatch, which might explain the overload.

However, I have to ask: Why are you recording a perfectly good acoustic guitar using a piezo pickup?

Piezos are good for ONLY one thing -- avoiding feedback onstage. In return for this sole benefit, piezos impose their own tonal curve AND do odd things to the dynamic range. Really, you'd likely get a better sound by plugging a $10 mic into your interface.

12
Well, the "value" question can be difficult -- see http://forums.washburn.com/index.php/topic,26499.msg157631.html#msg157631 for details.

If I were to go just by the Blue Book, I'd say a D-15M has a value of about $200. Given the age & provenance, you might get up to $300 selling one-to-one.

Since it hasn't been played much, the tone might come across as "stiff" to an experienced player, & this is more significant in a laminate-top guitar like yours. Given the guitar's age, that stiffness is likely permanent. Fortunately, there are younger players who seem to like that sound, having grown up being inundated by the stiffness characteristic of piezo pickups.

13
General Discussion / Re: The Eternal Question
« on: January 06, 2019, 02:16:40 PM »
Another bump.

14
Five bucks on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/YMC-Bridge-String-Winder-Acoustic/dp/B019R4ROU8/ref=asc_df_B019R4ROU8/

Less than a buck on eBay. [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Bridge-Pins-saddle-bridge-saddle-Bone-for-Acoustic-Guitar-black-color-E-Ec/113303487551?hash=item1a616a043f:g:BoIAAOSwNm5Zp-nd:rk:13:pf:0[/url

15
If I was going to start someone out right, I'd find a good used D-10S, preferably well-played. Get something that is a literal "kick around" guitar, where you don't have to worry about it getting knocked over (dogs, cats, children, drunken roommates, clumsy girlfriend...) and can keep it handy. If it's already got its share of scratches & gouges, you'll be more likely to PLAY it rather than being concerned about maintaining its value.

Find one with Grover tuners. They last almost forever; when they don't, Grover says they'll replace 'em for free. (I got a new set six years ago. All it cost was postage to send them the old set.)

People make a big thing about building fingertip callouses. That's largely nonsense. If a beginner's fingers hurt significantly, it's almost always due to three factors --
  • the strings are too high, & a setup should be done
  • the strings are much too thin, in the mistaken notion that "lighter strings are easier to play" (see #1) when actually they're much harder to keep in tune & to not sharp by fretting too hard (see #3); on my electrics, I prefer .010 or .011 sets, which many acoustic owners would consider too heavy!
  • the player is clutching the neck as though attempting to strangle it, with resultant strain to fingers, wrist, elbow, shoulder, & back; lay off the barre chords awhile & work instead on playing simple single-note exercises & melodies

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