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Messages - YerDugliness

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Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-34s ??
« on: August 23, 2017, 06:38:25 PM »
 I just got a Washburn SJ, Ship...nice play, for sure. Wish mine were a slot-headed 12-fretter...but, that pretty well describes my Epi AJ500RC...different tonewoods, but definitely similar construction.

Ship is a treasurehouse of Washburn info, 59 TX Proud...I'd say you've stumbled on a keeper  ;D


Dugly 8)


Third... Dugly, you mean well, but (again) I've fixed some of those repairs. ;) Beginners generally rock the saddle from side to side (unintentionally) causing a rounded surface. They also don't have much patience, & press down unevenly, resulting in one end getting more cut than the other.

I've figured out how to keep the saddle square and avoid rocking...I use the body of a combination square to establish a 90* "base" against which to hold the saddle as it is rubbed against the sandpaper. It maintains a 90* orientation so the saddle cannot rock back and forth. The bottom of the saddle ends up flat. I put a piece of tape on the face of the surface against which I hold the saddle to enhance it's ability to works, as long as one is careful to make sure that the face of the saddle stays flat against the face of the square.

I know this is a bit advanced for beginners....but if they use this process it should turn out right.


Dugly 8)

It is important that the bottom of the saddle be perfectly flat so that it will exert equal pressure on all parts of the pickup trandsucer, which sits into the sadde's "slot" under the saddle, itself.

You COULD send your current saddle to Bob Colosi @, but he always ships his saddles slightly oversize so they can be custom fitted to the guitar...which requires sanding, so why not try sanding down the saddle that came in the guitar? It isn't that hard.

You'll need a piece of glass from a glass will have a VERY flat surface. Tape the edges with masking tape or duct tape to keep from cutting yourself, then tape a piece of fine grit sandpaper to the glass and carefully remove your current saddle from your guitar (if the transducer in the slot lifts, carefully push it down in the saddle needs to lay flat in that slot). The next part requires hold your current saddle perpindicular to the surface of the glass and rub it back and forth, carefully exerting even pressure om both ends. Trial fit it to the saddle slot and repeat the sanding process until you are satisfied with the careful that the bottom of the saddle is flat so it presses evenly on the entire length and width of the transducer.

One issue arises...if your guitar was built with a bone saddle (or equivalent product), you're good to go, but if it was produced with a plastic saddle...well, replacing a plastic saddle with bone is one of the most effective upgrades undertaken...I mention this so that you might consider sourcing a bone saddle to begin with.

Of course, a GOOD shop tech or a luthier can do the work for you. I supplied my own bone blank and for $20 the luthier sanded it down for me, polished it and shaped it (maintains correct intonation up and down the neck), installed the newly worked saddle and installed my new strings. can do it for yourself, but once you've sanded it down TOO MUCH, it'll be useless (shims have been used to correct that with variable results).

That's about it...your factory saddle is already intonation compensated, so obviously you should try working it yourself...just beware of how far you go. If you ruin your saddle you'll need to source a new one (my new WG26S came from the factory with a replacement saddle and an extra bridge pin..check to see if yours did)... it's not unusual for DIY work to need to be redone so kudos to Washburn for providing replacement parts with their new guitars!!

Hope this helps. Check your current saddle by poking it with a red-hot pin...if it melts it's way into the material of the saddle, it's plastic; if not, you have bone or a synthetic equivalent.


Dugly 8)

Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-34s ??
« on: August 22, 2017, 01:19:13 PM »
The "Slot-Headed 12-fretter" is my favorite body style...easy to tune, hold, and play.

Washburn may have used the "D-34S" model identifier multiple times...they have a way of recycling model numbers, so perhaps some more descriptive information would help. Can you post a few photos? Photobucket use to be our go-to place for photos, but recently they got "greedy" and wiped out all of our photos unless we paid them something like $400.  Not many of us have paid it, but others have found websites that do not charge for photo-hosting.  If your photo-hosting website offers "IMG" codes to go with their photos, those are the ones that work on this website. Photos of things like the rosette (sometimes the difference between two models is nothing more than how many rings the rosette contains), the head, and front, side and back photos of the body. If the neck or head have any inlays or decorations, they might be of assistance in determining the precise "model".

At any rate, photos would help, and serial number may help identify the year of production and MAYBE the place it was made (chances are good it won't be made in the USA). Washburn has produced some custom shop acoustics (not any longer) and some custom shop electrics (these are continuing to be made in their custom shop, IIRC).

The slope-shoulder version you have is very attractive, BTW!


Dugly 8)

Another option might be to search online for a set of "Bluegrass strings".

Bluegrass flatpickers really punish their strings, so some of the manufacturers have started packaging sets of strings with heavier than usual wound strings in the set. Those wound strings stand up to the punishment of flatpicking much better, and in the act the tonal balance of the guitar will become more bass-heavy compared to the standard gauge string sets. This might help balance out the sound with those "overactive" trebbles.


Dugly 8)

Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Re: D26S year?
« on: August 17, 2017, 10:15:19 AM »
Maybe...Washburn's serial numbers are sometimes revealing, sometimes not. Tony does a very good job of explaining that in the first of the two threads referenced below. That 4 digit serial number is rather unusual, though.

The second thread below is mine...and it addresses more than just serial numbers, but there is some info in there about serial numbers.

I hope these are helpful!,26561.0.html,26844.0.html



General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« on: August 15, 2017, 06:32:27 PM »
OK, folks, the WG26S is here. I can't comment on the musical performance yet because as I was trying to tune it up the e string broke. While that was inconvenient, it was not a big issue, but the new strings are still stretching in.

I can comment on appearance, build quality, etc. In that respect this guitar is a real winner. The soundboard's purfling and rosette ring are all abalone shell, which adds an element of bling, but of greater importance to me is the fact that the body, neck and head are bound not with ivoroid, but with actual wood...looks like maple to me. This presents a much more professional-looking appearance and that is welcomed! The factory in CC (would that be Cort, China??) also did a great job with the finish...again, it is flawless. On my WSJ60SELITE  it is possible to see where the bindings "butted together" at the heel of the neck as well at the butt of the guitar...on this WG26S it appears as if the entire guitar's top were bound in its entirety with a single piece of the maple binding that joins up with the sides of the neck of the guitar. It's hard to even see the joint. This is a well appointed guitar!! The serial number starts with "SC", which stands for Samick, China, so a different factory. That may or may not be an issue  ;D

The case was even more of a pleasant surprise...not only is it provided with the guitar, it has an arch top!!! WAY TO GO, Washburn!!! However (!) it is obvious that the case is not fitted to the guitar as there is considerable clearance between the guitar and the case at the waist of the guitar. That is a bit dissapointing, but there was no charge for this well-made case, so I'm happy enough.  :D

Now onto the wood...the graining inside the body is definitely rosewood and the inside graining and outer graining do not match, so the laminate nature of the secondary tonewoods is obvious...although the appearance of the interior woods are obviously a laminate layer, it is an attractive look because of the rosewood used.

The new strings have stretched in pretty well and I must say I agree with Rick's comments. I am almost universally disappointed in how the "G" string sounds on most of my guitars, it is rather "muted" compared to the other strings. Washburn did something right on this model...I'm not sure if it is the small waist on the body or the tonewoods or....well, there could be many reasons, but the balance across the fretboard definitely seems better on this guitar than on my recently acquired WSJ60SELITE, and I thought that one was very good! This is the first steel string guitar that I hear the A/D/G/B strings as having equal "brightness". That is very impressive!

The lutherie/workmanship is exemplary! The guitar came with an extra bridge pin and an extra saddle, so I may do some experimenting with string height by sanding down the extra saddle, but I am NOT unhappy with what I have already, so it won't be much.

I really like the neck. I need a rather thick neck due to an industrial accident I suffered in the 1970s, requiring a bone graft on my left thumb...which might explain why my Epiphone AJ500RC is my favorite guitar...the instrument has a "V-neck" profile and that really feels good in my hand. This guitar has a neck that is wide enough for me, and although it is not as "thick" as the V-neck I like so much, I would give it an A-/B+ for playability because of the width of the neck.

It is a very attractive instrument, with all the rosewood, but the top is not the light "reddish" color that I expect from cedar, it appears lighter like spruce. I have no doubt it IS cedar, just sounds and plays right, and with all the MOP it's very attractive, to boot! It's definitely a keeper!!!

BTW, Rick...the neck on mine has the scarf joint between the first and second fret, too...but the serial number starts with 10, so it must be a 2010 model. Now that I think about it, the WSJ60SELITE is a 2013 model, so these have been sitting around for a while.


Dugly 8)

Well, it's quickly becoming clear that there are a few guitars that won't get much playtime for a while. Now that the strings are stretched in the guitar tunes "  buttah!" I spend very little time tuning, so the tuners are getting my respect. I'm also digging on how easily the guitar plays, and I credit the neck for that nice surprise. It is surprising how easy it is to throw in some vibrato, and hammer-ons, liftoffs and slides are solid, too, thanks to the great fretwork and cedar top.
Yeah, I'm kicking my own behind for waiting so long! An added bonus...b/c of the fairly exaggerated waist on this model it rests OH! SO WELL on my leg (I play in the classical position) need to "contain" the guit on my leg frees up the right arm and allows it to be held away from the guitar, which results in notably improved tone.

Get ya one of these while they are still available...I would get myself a second one if I didn't have so many guits already.  :-\

Cheers for Washburn this time  :D

Dugly 8)

Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-94LTD
« on: August 15, 2017, 07:18:02 AM »
Washburn has fairly consistently followed a system of model designation over the years...if the model number has no letters following the model designation it is an all-laminate instrument. According to this system, your D94LTD is an all-laminate guitar...maybe!!!

I say "maybe" because the LTD designation usually indicates some special construction techniques. For example, Washburn produced a very highly regarded model (D10S) and a very special model of the D10S line called the D10SLTD. THE "LTD" model had enhanced lutherie, such as wood bindings rather than the white "ivoroid" bindings.

So...yours is an "LTD" model and that usually means something special...we do have a number of historically knowledgable forum members, perhaps they will chime in with more information about this unusual model. Stay tumed!!



Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Re: Sup!
« on: August 12, 2017, 06:00:43 PM »
I was just at Pearl at the first of this month. It was the 20th Anniversary and the Texas state banjo championship competition.

Lots of changing faces, but you should see J. P...21 years old and married.

It's always a good time, but these competitions cut down on the jam groups so most of the activity is in the auditorium.

Yeah, still buying Washburns...two this summer alone.

Cheers, amigo!!

Dugly 8)

General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« on: August 11, 2017, 09:41:10 AM »
(Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but does that include a gig bag at least?)

Well, Tony, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the guitar comes in one of Washburn's "pro" grade cases. If it is anything like the case in which the ELITE was delivered, it's a winner! If you take a look at the images on the WMS display you can see, gator-skin texture.

I get the idea that this is a sell-off of inventory, so if you're interested...$240 for guitar and Washburn branded hard-shell case (not plastic) is pretty righteous. FedEx says Tuesday delivery and if my experience is any predictor they will use every day. Check back early next week and hopefully I will have received the package by then.


Dugly 8)

General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« on: August 10, 2017, 12:41:24 PM »
I just today got around to ordering my'll be a HNGD for me either Thursday or Friday, or so they say!

As for my WSJ60S...I learned a valuable lesson. Strings DO make a difference. Once I had swapped out the factory strings for my faves, this guitar WOKE UP! I was not overly impressed with the tone of it at first, now it's one of the few I search out every day. I have had a chance to take more time really looking at the lutherie...folks, this is about as good as I've seen for a factory produced guitar. All of the bindings look like maple or spruce...and almost everything is bound. The joints are tight and the bookmarking of not only the top/back pieces, bit also the side pieces, is a welcome touch. It will be both a looker and a player, I am sure! The cocobolo graining is very attractive and mine has lighter cappucino colored streaks in it, as well as the expected rosewood darker grain patterning.

From all I have found out about the WG26S, I think I'll like it. It has the "magical" tonewood combination I like in a body size I know I already like, so it's already heads above the rest. The only thing that could dampen my enthusiasm would be nut width or build quality issues, and there do not seem to be many complaints about that issue here on the forums. The "bling" factor played a part in this purchase...lots of MOP/abalone!!!

Cheers, all!!!

Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: washburn d30 s first or second
« on: August 05, 2017, 07:28:13 PM »
Hi just bought a Washburn D30 S
how will i no if its a first edition or second .
...the back of the headstock got a funny v part.
i don't receive the guitar till monday ,will hopefully but some pics up.
just wondered if any one can help.

The comment about the front of the headstock being different from the rear has me wondering...could that "funny V" part be a volute where the back of the neck blends into the headstock? Other than that, I agree...they are (mostly) finely made guitars and IIRC the first edition had the 3-piece back and the newer has the 2-piece back (and no volute???)...but our historians will have the skinny on it, so hang around!


Dugly 8)

Acoustic Guitar Players Post Comments & Questions / Re: WA90CE
« on: July 28, 2017, 08:03:06 AM »
If Washburn has followed its routine for model designation, this guitar is of all laminate construction.


Dugly 8)

Show Us Your Washburn / Re: D47-SCE
« on: July 26, 2017, 10:34:41 AM »
Can someone please explain the process to upload a photo to the post? I've tried inserting the pic info, with copy/paste, and from the img icon...and the pix don't show on the post, or the previews...not sure how this works on this forum...I have 3 pix I can post of my guitar...

Most of us were using Photobucket, which had been free up until a short while ago when Photobucket decided they needed to charge $400 (one time only? recurring?) to host photos for downloading.

The forum needs an "IMG" code to display photos, so if you aren't going to pay the excessive amount required by Photobucket, you'll need to search around for a photo hosting site that provides an "IMG" based link to the images.


Dugly 8)

Try the General Discussion board, a thread titled "Serial Nunbers for Beginners". We have a lot of requests for the same type of info...most serial numbers start with a couple of letters, which denote the city and country of origin ( for example, a serial number starting with SC indicates that guitar was constructed in Samick, China).

If you do not find the info you need there (or through a Google search), perhaps one of our members can help. Apparently Epiphone has some sort of document that lists corresponding "abbreviations" for the various locations of factories. The chances are pretty good that your instrument was made by a different company than Washburn under contract. Some of the older Japanese guitars are quite decent. Yours seems to have been manufactured in 2003.


Dugly 8)

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