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General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« Last post by YerDugliness on November 17, 2017, 10:24:51 AM »
The second WG26S has arrived and I notice a few differences between the two I own. First of all, one serial number starts with "CC", followed by the serial number, whereas the newer one has just one "C" followed by the serial number.  This leads me to believe that perhaps the two guitars were made in different factories. "CC" would (if my memory is correct) be Cort, China...but both paper stickers inside the guitar are clearly marked "Made in China" at the very bottom, so I guess it might be possible that both were made in Cort, with the expectation that the second "C" might be redundant since the paper label is so clear about the guitar having been "Made in China"? Other differences between the stickers relate to the model number designation (The "CC" version says "WG26S" followed by "Natural" whereas the "C" version simply says "WG26S".)

There are other differences in construction, minor as they may be. For example, the maple binding around the body at the soundboard is "wider" on the "CC" model than it is on the "C" model...but both are exactly the same model, so how is that happening unless they are made in different factories?

This newer "C" model seems to be much louder than the "CC" model. Both have exemplary consistency across the strings. This model is the best I have ever heard regarding what I think is a very common "muting" of the is quite obvious on some of my Washburns and quite notably absent on both of the WG26S guitars...but the "C" model just seems to enjoy about a 3dB advantage in volume for some reason.

One thing I think is a bit unusual...the braces under the soundboard, which are tapered, are rather poorly "shaved" looks like somebody did the tapering with a kitchen knife. Most of my Washburns have much more "professional" looking work in that it was shaved by a machine. It probably has nothing to do with the splendid sound of this model, it was just something I noticed as I was looking at the guitar.

Already one of my friends wants to buy one of my WG26S guits...I may well sell him one and use the $$$ to buy a 3rd might be a nice opportunity to choose the best two, or the two that match the best in appearance.

This Washburn sounds as good as my Epiphone AJ500RC Masterbilt, which I just had "juiced" and will get back (hopefully) this coming Friday.

Cheers! I'll come back again and update this thread as I get more acquainted with these fine instruments.

Dugly 8)
Thanks a lot. I don't have any mail. Did you send it? Thank you very much for that.I'm begging you.
General Discussion / Forum Posting "issues"...anyone else have this problem?
« Last post by YerDugliness on November 17, 2017, 08:52:08 AM »
I notice more and more that when I am trying to post a response to a thread the forum software refuses to post it and I get a banner notice something to the effect of "We are unable to post your response. Try again and if it continues to fail contact an administrator".

It's sporadic, but prevalent enough that it tends to be a bit of a problem, particularly if the response was lengthy...the forum just deletes the draft response in quick order if it won't post it.

Has anyone else had this issue? It usually happens to me if I'm trying to post during the evening, if that has anything to do with it...but it could have nothing to do with it, too. could be related to using an iPhone to post replies (my desktop at home is on the fritz!).

I'm sure hoping this can be fixed!


Dugly 8)

Washburn Parallaxe Series / Re: Using the buzz feiten system
« Last post by Tony Raven on November 17, 2017, 12:52:13 AM »
Washburn Parallaxe Series / Re: Using the buzz feiten system
« Last post by Tony Raven on November 17, 2017, 12:29:45 AM »
I have a bunch of (potentially relevant) thoughts.

Over the years, I've played a  range of guitars -- & by "range" I mean that I'm a gear addict. ::) Anyway, a very common problem, IME, is that the nut is worn, ever so slightly, & particularly under the wound strings; if an electric guitar has seen lots of vibrato use, this wear can extend all across. As a result, it's impossible to properly tune such a guitar relying on the open-string tone: to do so would make all fretted notes sharp, however slightly, & adjusting the bridge based on the open note would screw up ALL fretted notes.

When I adjust a bridge, I put a capo at Fret #1 (though, as I'll get to, maybe #3 would be better). And when I tune a guitar, I tend to adjust for where I'm playing, so an acoustic will be tuned to sound best on first-position chords, a rhythm guitar for accuracy around frets 5-7, & an electric for soloing work around fret 10.

Though I have been critical of the Buzz Feiten Tuning System, I should make clear that it is an excellent fix for an inherent problem of the guitar, namely the "break angle" over the nut. See, in a mechanically ideal system, the edge of the nut ought to be as close as possible to the exact center of the string. Instead, not only do strings vary in diameter, but some of them have further wraps that push the string up from its proper break point (not unlike the mounting end of strings in an autoharp or piano). As a result, when fretting the thicker strings, pressing down stretches the string, raising its pitch. The BFTS is a very simple & smart way of compensating for this.

However, this is NOT some miraculous cure-all. Feiten's own literature states that this compensation is intended to make up for problems in the first two or three frets. Anything higher on the fretboard is probably imaginary.
This eliminates sharp notes at the first three frets.

Ultimately, though, it's a game of "close enough for jazz" (or whatever). It is impossible to tune ANY guitar perfectly, because even temperament is a compromise... but that's another discussion for another day. 8)
Post your thoughts on Banjos & Mandolins / Re: B11 or B-12 what's the difference?
« Last post by Tony Raven on November 16, 2017, 10:46:34 PM »
Far as I know, for modern banjos, the necks are pretty much interchangeable, maybe with slight modifications. But I'm a guitar guy, & hope for a more hands-on opinion from someone.
Post your thoughts on Banjos & Mandolins / B11 or B-12 what's the difference?
« Last post by Caspah on November 15, 2017, 03:02:42 PM »
I have a B-12 with a damaged neck. Can I replace the neck with a neck from a different model, a B-11 for instance?
Contact Bob Colosi at

Bob is the one who usually answers the phone...he's a hands-on sort of guy!

He offers bone saddles, nuts, strap buttons, bridge pins and end pins...but can also craft those items from other materials, such as fossilized walrus tusk and (my favorite) West African Hard Ivory.

While it might be easy to think Bob could just make one from scratch, he'll likely need to have your current nut in hand, so I'd recommend sending him your current plastic nut to "replicate". I say "replicate" because he'll always provide the new bone "blank" slightly oversize (this allows a tech or luthier to custom fit it to the neck) so it will need to be shaved to size and have string slots appropriate for the string gauges you use added.  The regular routine is that the customer takes the guitar to a shop tech or a luthier for those services.

His prices are reasonable.  Good luck!


Dugly 8)

I think I have what your looking for.I will send you an email
General Discussion / Guitar neck
« Last post by andy sales on November 14, 2017, 07:51:37 AM »
Hi all, i dont suppose anyone has a washburn guitar neck for sale? Preferably an ss model but a kc/n2/ g series will do the job. Not bothered about tuners or locking nut, just the neck. UK only please. Cheers
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