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21
Guitar Care, Repair, Modification & Lutherie / Re: Bridge Ground on WM100
« Last post by Tony Raven on November 11, 2017, 06:25:08 PM »
Hmm. Well, first thought: there's a rather large different between "feedback" & "noise." The latter is usually used to describe mains hum (50 Hz or 60 Hz, depending on your region's electric service).

Sometimes feedback is caused by microphoning, one or more components witin the pickup vibrating too freely. However, this is NOT stopped by damping the strings; a microphoning pickup would squeal even with the strings removed.

Therefore, it's simple: you've got the amp set waaaay too loud for your circumstances. ::) Try stepping away from the speaker. Then, adjust your EQ to reduce the problematic tonal range. It's also possible that the room your in has a natural resonance at that tone, & I'm guessing you've got hard walls.

It's possible that you are getting mains hum, & the room resonates at about that frequency, AND so does the speaker cone & the guitar, & this "perfect wave" is your problem.

If you can't figure it out, spend $100 on a Behringer Shark, which can knock out up to eight feedback points.
________________

As for the ground... wow, you ARE new to this stuff. :o Set your VOM to continuity (or, failing that, to a low-ohmage resistance test). Touch one lead to a string, the other to the mounting nut of the output jack. If the needle moves, they are connected.

I have no idea what your bridge/tailpiece config is. However, I've seen every imaginable way to wire a ground. A two-screw vibrato had the ground wire in the hole of one of the mounting studs, apparently reasoning that there wouldn't be enough height adjustments to break the wire. The ground bus wire may be soldered on, or wrapped around a screw, or simply set under metal hardware before it's bolted down.

22
Idol Series / What did I get?!?
« Last post by sopwith99 on November 11, 2017, 04:34:51 PM »
I bought a WI14 guitar today, at least thats what it says on the truss rod cover.  All the images I found on the internet show a hard tail bridge but this one has a tremolo.  It has a transparent finish that shows some nice grain.  The serial starts with 0309xxxx so I guess it was made in 2003.  If anyone knows some details about this model I'd love to know more.

Thanks
23
General Discussion / Re: mandolin ms3 circa 88 with fancy inlay on neck
« Last post by bigcity2 on November 10, 2017, 07:54:25 PM »
Not made in the USA.....most likely made in Japan.  Fancy inlays on the neck were added later....not by the builder of the instrument, as all M-3s, from the 1987-89 time period,  had dot position markers.  Post a picture of your instrument along with a closeup of the sticker.

To my knowledge, no production model Washburn mandolins, manufactured after the 2nd WW, were built in the USA.

From the 1987 Washburn Acoustic product catalog:



24
General Discussion / Re: WG26 variations
« Last post by YerDugliness on November 10, 2017, 03:26:29 PM »
Yeah...I liked my WG26S so much I ordered a second one today.

I'll get my Epiphone Masterbilt back over Thanksgiving vacation and will then be able to compare the sound of the two. I thought my AJ500RC sounded good, but this WG26S may give it a real run for its money!

Cheers!

Doug
25
General Discussion / mandolin ms3 circa 88 with fancy inlay on neck
« Last post by Clive Honeyman on November 10, 2017, 02:24:12 AM »
does any one have more information on my F Style mandolin it is an 88 with fancy inlays on the neck, the sticker inside it says made in the US. The model is M3SB 88,
26
Guitar Care, Repair, Modification & Lutherie / Bridge Ground on WM100
« Last post by MattSA on November 09, 2017, 05:11:17 PM »
I have just rewired this guitar. Unfortunately I think the bridge ground is no longer attached within the body of the guitar. I have a multimeter, but do not know of a test to determine whether the wire is grounded within the body. Is there one? If there is not can someone tell me where this ground is attached? I have seen videos on the Internet where people have used a piece of pvc and a bolt to "raise" the bushing out of the body. On this particular guitar there are four posts used for the bridge. I would rather not have to do this, but currently the amount of feedback coming from the guitar when I touch the strings is unacceptable.

This whole process may not be what is needed to reduce the noise. When I plug in one of my other electrics to the amp there is minimal noise. When I plug in the Washburn it creates horrendous feedback. If I clamp my hand over the strings there is no noise. When I fret the high strings (G, B, E) it sounds exactly the way it's suppose to. When I release the strings it goes right back to producing the problem sounds. Any thoughts?

Matt
27
I have a friend interested in buying this D49 special edition that Washburn made. I can't remember what our church paid for it but it's got to go. But for how much?
It's in really good shape and playable.
28
Nice guitar the D44SW. I had one and also the D42SW which I still have. These are Washburn's best Korean builts.
29
Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Re: 1982 Washburn SB-40EQ.
« Last post by Musicman112 on November 07, 2017, 02:11:05 PM »
Hi Tony Raven---Uber SOldat does indeed have an SB-40EQ. They were made ONLY in 1982. They were the follow-on to the 1981 SB-40. The 3 pot/1 toggle/1 mini-switch circuitry started in the Wing Series SB-40 in 1981, into the Wing Series SB-40EQ in 1982 and followed into the now-Force-series B40EQ/EQW and Force 40 basses until 1984. The original WING  B-40's had the Vulture II circuitry of 4 pot/1 toggle.

There are no differences in the circuitry between ALL of those basses. I personally own two 1981 SB-40's, a 1982 SB-40EQ,  a 1983 Force 40 and a 1984 Force 40 BBR and have a copy of the original B-40EQ schematic. Had an electrical engineer, Pete Wickham (who also does guitars) physically check it all out (and replaced a pot on my SB-40EQ) and he confirmed the electronics.

Interestingly enough, the only difference between the SB-40 and SB-40EQ is on the 40 the cavity covers are plain brushed aluminum and on the SB-40EQ the cavity covers are blackened aluminum.

I'm on the lookout for an electric bass but doesn't wan't to spend a fortune to get a decent bass. I have the chance to buy a 1981 B-40 pretty cheap and just wonder if they are any good? I have a Washburn HB35 guitar from 83 and that one is great. I think they would match each other really nice.

Kind Regards Emil
30
there are lots of builders ( handbuilts ) who spray on the inside of their guitars so no big deal really
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