Username: Password:

Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
Show Us Your Washburn / Re: My Washburn
« Last post by gusto on January 26, 2018, 02:29:33 PM »
It turns out I was reading it wrong.  The model number on my Washburn is actually SS40-B.  Any help on this guitar, particularly it's value, would be very much apprecaited.  Thanks, Gusto-
There are some VERY good prices now on Washburn's series of "ELITE" instruments.

Here is what I've heard about the "ELITE" series, of which I am aware of 2 models:

Washburn WSJ60SKELITE Solid Cedar Top Southern Jumbo Acoustic Guitar with case

Washburn WSJ50SKELITE Solid Spruce Top Southern Jumbo Acoustic Guitar with case.

The 60 model has a solid cedar soundboard and laminate "Cocobolo" sides and back.

The 50 model has a solid spruce soundboard with laminate Koa sides and back.

Both models appear to be "Southern Jumbo" models...essentially "slope shouldered" dread-sized instruments.

There isn't much really known about how the ELITE series originated, but after having some conversations with the owner of the online company from which I order, here is what little I have heard (I have no idea how accurate it is).

The ELITE line was developed to be sold only in certain music stores, which were going to be designated as "ELITE" dealers by Washburn. This was reported to have been a project that was going to involve stores not only in the U.S., but also in Europe. Somehow, the "ELITE" dealerships didn't seem to get off the ground, but Washburn had a stock of "ELITE" labeled guitars already made, so one of the online instrument dealers (which IS an authorized Washburn dealer) apparently bought the entire stock and is offering great deals on these ELITE instruments.

One issue which is usually of particular importance (to me) is the quality of lutherie and the nature of the materials used. In this case, the instrument gets a B...the dreaded "ivoroid" cream colored bindings on the body and neck are notably absent and in their place is high quality maple. That gives the instrument a much more "professional" look. The Rosette is MOP/Abalone, but the purfling is not. The fretboard is bound, as is the head plate. The neck is surprisingly "thick" (I like a V-neck, so a thick neck suits me just fine). The only reason I give it a B rather than an A is that I also own a WG26S (Grand Auditorium body style) and the bindings along that guitar's fretboard/headplate  and around the body are much more "deluxe" than the ones on the ELITE. I would have expected that to be reversed for an instrument that Washburn was developing as it's premier line.

I have yet to see or hear the other ELITE offering from's spruce soundboard should offer brighter tones and tolerate much more vigorous strumming, and the koa will give a warmth to the sound.


Dugly 8)

General Discussion / Re: Does Washburn "B stock" carry the factory warranty?
« Last post by YerDugliness on January 26, 2018, 09:50:42 AM »
Hi,'s a cool feature regarding the ELITE series. The guitars come with a very heavy case that has a covering resembling alligator skin. On the butt of the case is a decal identifying the case as being paired with the guitar using the serial number of the guitar. We've all heard about how having all of the original equipment that came with a guitar can improve its value...perhaps this sticker on the butt of the guitar's case was designed to do just that.

I think there's more to the "ELITE" series than what we've talked about here, so I think I'll start a new thread in the Acoustic forum regarding the series.

Just as an afterthought, though...if you're looking for eye candy, it would be hard to beat the WSJ60SKELITE, which has a cedar soundboard and cocobolo secondary tonewoods (laminate in nature). I researched cocobolo and found out that it is a hard species of rosewood, so you'll get that great gutsy rosewood tone with the ELITE. Mine is not as spectacularly banded as most of the cocobolo guitars I've seen, but it has very attractive dark coffee coloration mixed in with the cappuccino colored bands.

If you're looking for a great looking AND sounding guitar, consider the WG26S, it is clearly superior to the WSJ60SELITE in volume and tone and as well has much more "deluxe" lutherie. I would have thought that Washburn would have prioritized lutherie for the ELITE series...but the WG26S clearly outshines the ELITE model in that area, too.


Dugly 8)
Announcements & News / New Washburn Instruments for 2018
« Last post by WEBgUy on January 26, 2018, 09:41:19 AM »
Head over to the News section of our Website to see all the new instruments we're introducing at NAMM this week!
Or view them all here:
135th Anniversary RSD135D
The Timeless Collection
Revival Series RSG100SWVESK
Comfort Series WCG700SWEK
Apprentice Series G-Mini AGM5K
Michael Sweet Signature Parallaxe V PXV-MS2FR
General Discussion / Modify Silvertone transistor radio into a guitar amplifier
« Last post by lingyueqing on January 25, 2018, 02:43:23 AM »
I have an early 1960 Silvertone transistor radio that I'm trying to convert to a guitar amplifier for a cigar box guitar, aka a CBG. (CBG's are typically built with primitive equipment and the inherent distortions and defects are considered part of their charm.)

The old radio works fine, I put 6 D-cells into it and I can pick up AM stations just fine.

Instructions for conversion are all over the web but basically consist of this:

Ground one wire from the guitar cord to ground on the radio.
Find the volume pot.
Attach the other lead from the guitar random posts on the volume pot and strum until you hear your guitar through the speaker.
We're not talking rocket science here.

Now my radio has 2 concentric pots, one for volume and one for tone. I've been able to identify the volume pot by hooking up my Ohm-meter and turning the volume knob.

Now the problem is, when I attach the leads from the guitar I don't hear the string from the radio's speaker.

Here's the back of the volume pot:

Tap 1 has 9v when the volume control is clicked on, 0v when off. Tap 2 has 9v all the time. So it's clearly the power switch.

Underneath we find 3 more posts:

Taps A, B and C also have 0v when the volume is off, and 9v when the volume is on.

I pull the batteries and measure resistance (and yeah, I know, the pot is in the circuit so it isn't accurate but I'm just trying to find the "input" lead.

A always reads 4k Ohms, B varies from 2k to 4k, C is at 2k no matter what I do with the volume knob.

1 in always at 2k Ohms, 2 is 0 Ohms when off, 2k when on (which makes sense since it is connected directly to the battery)

So it seems to me that I should be hooking into tap B. So when I hook the rod-piezo to B and to ground I still hear the static of the radio and when I pluck the string, I do not hear the note out the speakers. One member of the cigar box forums said that the rod piezo pickup might not put out enough power, so I tried a wound magnetic pick and got the same results.

And here's the schematic of the radio:

All the online tutorials make this look easy, but I'm baffled at this point. And go easy on me, my degree does have an EE in it, but it also has a CS in it and I do CS stuff for a living, that EE was really a long time ago..I want to putt an op amp buffer in series with CBG and AC-couple the output into the pot later.

Question: I'd love to know why this works, it seems to me that I'm mixing the guitar signal with the radio signal but all the web instructions just say that you don't hear the radio.

Question #2: Just how would I find and cut out the radio section? I'm guess that once I find the right place to tap into I just cut there to remove the radio from the circuit, is it really just that easy?
Guitar Care, Repair, Modification & Lutherie / Re: Sanding a WM100
« Last post by colorado54 on January 24, 2018, 11:59:43 PM »
Thanks for great infor!
General Discussion / Re: Does Washburn "B stock" carry the factory warranty?
« Last post by philpm on January 24, 2018, 07:30:44 PM »
Good to hear Dug.  I was also wondering if anyone had any experience with the WSJ60.  I've been eyeing that for a while and might have to take the plunge on it.
General Discussion / RW-300
« Last post by bigcity2 on January 24, 2018, 03:44:50 PM »
Buyers beware.....this is not an RW-300.... it's a Washburn RR-300, with the wrong truss rod cover.

The guitar has been modified.  No headstock inlay (pig),  no signature inlay at the 12 fret....and no supporting paperwork...

Here's an interesting read from Washburn about both models...
Show Us Your Washburn / Re: Family photo w/ Details
« Last post by ship of fools on January 24, 2018, 02:30:21 PM »
nice family picture
General Discussion / Re: Does Washburn "B stock" carry the factory warranty?
« Last post by YerDugliness on January 24, 2018, 11:33:25 AM »
Issue is the response by WMS:

"These guitar were listed as B stock by us and not the as far as they are concerned they are covered by their warranty."

As we suspected...but it was interesting to hear that the "B stock" designation was assigned by WMS. I have purchased two different Washburn models recently and neither of them were designated as "B stock". I do notice that the models I have recently purchased (one WSJ60SKELITE "Southern Jumbo" acoustic guitar and two of the WG26S model) aren't in the current Washburn catalog. When I called WMS about the issue they told me that they bought all Washburn stock on these two models, as they were being discontinued.

What a shame...the WG26S (which is a "Grand Auditorium" model) is my "go-to" guitar for almost everything acoustic and the only reason that the Elite model isn't close to the top is that the body is quite similar to a dreadnought (but it has much better tonal balance than any of my dreads!).

I bought the WSJ60SKELITE to use as a road/camping's TOO GOOD to use for that purpose, so I'm back to one of my two WMJ21S models for a road/camping guitar. I could tolerate losing one of those to an accident or clumsy campers, but not the WSJ60SKELITE!!!


Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]