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Messages - Tony Raven

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16
Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Re: Force 8 Bass
« on: January 06, 2019, 04:38:38 PM »
Well, since the TROLL has seen fit to resurrect this zombie thread, I might as well comment.

I disagree about the year supposedly indicated in the s/n. Generally, ten-digit numbers use the first two digits for year & the next two for month, but I have seen two impossibilities, so grain-of-salt. Eight-digit numbers usually have a two-digit year, though I have seen the one-digit year.

Shorter numbers run out of room to be useful as serial numbers. If a six-digit s/n gave up its first four spaces for year/month, that would leave only TWO to count, so they'd only have been able to make 100 Washburns in that month, which seems unlikely. So, the first digit indicates year, & there may be no month counter.

Plenty of MIJ models used a four-digit s/n. I have no confidence in this as a year indicator; in one instance, the owner had a receipt showing that the s/n (taken literally) indicated it was built two years AFTER he bought it. :o Even if it appears acccurate, that means the vendor could only have counted 1,000 Washburns in the entire YEAR before repeating numbers.

The value of Force basses is all over the place. Like so many great Washburn models, they're mostly forgotten, so there's no demand, so prices collapse. A striking BBR Force 8 has been sitting on Reverb.com for 2+ years at $650; a Force 5 ABT can't catch $275.

FWIW, I've heard most Force are Daion/Yamaki; though I'm not yet fully convinced, I have to admit they've got some familiar design quirks.

17
D10 Series / Re: Where was my D10 made?
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:59:17 PM »
I'm uncertain. 1988 is rather late for Japan builds. As well, a ten-digit s/n is unusual for Japan vendors.

18
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: washburn d60sw timber ridge...
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:42:47 PM »
With a six-digit serial, it's more likely the first indicates year, so I'd guess 1988.

19
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn W400 ....where?
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:35:02 PM »
It's a Beckmen Music model. Beckmen owned the brand name 1974-1977.

20
Vintage and Rare Washburns / Re: Washburn D-68sw
« on: January 06, 2019, 03:30:57 PM »
Did you ever get that quote? Around here, $10/fret is considered a bargain.

The good news is that very few guitars need to have ALL the frets replaced. Pull three or five of the worst, level the rest, replace the bad ones with lower-crown fretwire, & finish up with a crown & polish.

21
Having used nothing analogous :) my first guess is impedance mismatch, which might explain the overload.

However, I have to ask: Why are you recording a perfectly good acoustic guitar using a piezo pickup?

Piezos are good for ONLY one thing -- avoiding feedback onstage. In return for this sole benefit, piezos impose their own tonal curve AND do odd things to the dynamic range. Really, you'd likely get a better sound by plugging a $10 mic into your interface.

22
Well, the "value" question can be difficult -- see http://forums.washburn.com/index.php/topic,26499.msg157631.html#msg157631 for details.

If I were to go just by the Blue Book, I'd say a D-15M has a value of about $200. Given the age & provenance, you might get up to $300 selling one-to-one.

Since it hasn't been played much, the tone might come across as "stiff" to an experienced player, & this is more significant in a laminate-top guitar like yours. Given the guitar's age, that stiffness is likely permanent. Fortunately, there are younger players who seem to like that sound, having grown up being inundated by the stiffness characteristic of piezo pickups.

23
General Discussion / Re: The Eternal Question
« on: January 06, 2019, 02:16:40 PM »
Another bump.

24
Five bucks on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/YMC-Bridge-String-Winder-Acoustic/dp/B019R4ROU8/ref=asc_df_B019R4ROU8/

Less than a buck on eBay. [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Bridge-Pins-saddle-bridge-saddle-Bone-for-Acoustic-Guitar-black-color-E-Ec/113303487551?hash=item1a616a043f:g:BoIAAOSwNm5Zp-nd:rk:13:pf:0[/url

25
If I was going to start someone out right, I'd find a good used D-10S, preferably well-played. Get something that is a literal "kick around" guitar, where you don't have to worry about it getting knocked over (dogs, cats, children, drunken roommates, clumsy girlfriend...) and can keep it handy. If it's already got its share of scratches & gouges, you'll be more likely to PLAY it rather than being concerned about maintaining its value.

Find one with Grover tuners. They last almost forever; when they don't, Grover says they'll replace 'em for free. (I got a new set six years ago. All it cost was postage to send them the old set.)

People make a big thing about building fingertip callouses. That's largely nonsense. If a beginner's fingers hurt significantly, it's almost always due to three factors --
  • the strings are too high, & a setup should be done
  • the strings are much too thin, in the mistaken notion that "lighter strings are easier to play" (see #1) when actually they're much harder to keep in tune & to not sharp by fretting too hard (see #3); on my electrics, I prefer .010 or .011 sets, which many acoustic owners would consider too heavy!
  • the player is clutching the neck as though attempting to strangle it, with resultant strain to fingers, wrist, elbow, shoulder, & back; lay off the barre chords awhile & work instead on playing simple single-note exercises & melodies

26
Well, overlooking that this post is mostly an underhanded way of sneaking your ad in... ::)

Yes, Washburns tend to be among the most reliable inexpensive guitars on the market. Their quality control can be irregular but is generally good. I often use the word workmanlike.

If you absolutely must have a new guitar, it's likely to need initial adjustment (nut, neck, bridge), which ought to be done by a skilled repair tech if you've never done it yourself.

Used guitars are often a much better value. The instrument has already been "broken in," nothing is falling off, and some adjustment has likely been done. Basic Washburn acoustics with "solid wood" tops (D-10S, D-11S, D-12S, etc.) are so common that prices are low, often significantly less than a new guitar, and years later can be resold for what you paid if you decide to move along or upgrade.


27
General Discussion / Re: When did the Yairi factory burn down?
« on: January 06, 2019, 01:16:57 PM »
I am not aware that either Yairi company has ever suffered a catastrophic fire.

The Matsumoku factory burned in 1988. The company had gone bankrupt in 1987.

28
General Discussion / Re: The End of Nature and Guitar Woods‏
« on: January 06, 2019, 01:11:01 PM »
Seeing as the TROLL has dredged this back up, I wish to examine the notion.

I am a wild-eyed radical, and have had my tree-hugger phases. However, this is kinda silly.

Very few guitars use wood from the Amazon rainforest. The few that do are generally very expensive. And in the past couple of years (since the original post), wood species that are endangered, or whose harvest clearly damages the local ecosystem, have become very tightly controlled.

Almost all commercial guitars are built exclusively from fast-growing and relatively light woods, the majority plantation grown (farmed).

While animals intake oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, plants do the reverse. Every harvested piece of lumber is an effective method of taking carbon atoms out of the air and binding them. Each finished guitar represents pollutants taken from the air and safely locked up.

29
General Discussion / ATTENTION, SITE ADMINS -- job application!!
« on: January 06, 2019, 12:54:00 PM »
Hi, my screen name (obviously) is Tony Raven. I have been around here for a few years.

Due largely to corporate indifference, constructive activity on this site continues to dwindle. A recent phenomenon has accelerated that decline: apparent humans who show up here under orders to "pretend to blend in" but salting their posts with "clickbait." While one or two seem to actually have some idea they're on a guitar-oriented site, almost all of them are clueless morons whose only purpose here is to collect a few pennies from blathering mindlessly and getting in the way of the few remaining guitar-loving adults.

I am applying for basic Moderator privileges, with the right to ban any account as I see fit, and to remove all posts that are irrelevant to the discussion or the site.

Thank you for your consideration.

30
Actually, the troll ios correct. :)

A darned good $200 axe, and maybe needing $100 in maintenance. Once again: if you are buying to PLAY, ya done good. If you hope to get rich... well... no.

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