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Messages - Le Basseur

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Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / just another old new guy
« on: November 29, 2008, 02:53:30 PM »
Welcome to the forum,ol' man! [:)]
Good luck in finding what you're looking for (thus being either THE music,a good bass teacher in your area,etc,etc).
If you think you'd might get some useful hints as related to bass playing (others than those offered by your instructor) or as related to some strictly tech aspects of the instrument,don't hesitate to ask for help.Sometimes Internet really works for you...[:D]
Best regards,

Just in case you'd want a more comprehensible lecture:

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Force 5 Controls
« on: November 04, 2008, 01:53:24 AM »
Volume/PU Blend/Bass/Treble
(these are the pots' functions but I'm not sure about the pots' sequence,though)

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Help with bass
« on: September 04, 2008, 06:20:21 AM »
Read here:
Obviously,your bass needs a neck adjustment job.The link from above contains all the notions and actions to be taken.
Remember,though:if you decide to do it yourself (instead of going to an experienced tech),do it IN SMALL STEPS and never apply too much physical force.

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Bass knobs
« on: June 06, 2008, 01:05:31 AM »
If your potentiometers look like this:
(look at the shaft's shape,not at the pot's body)
,you'll just have to widen a little the shaft's gap with a flat screwdriver.I mean,just A LITTLE! (...or else,you might widen it too much and the knob won't fit OR,much worse,if too many force is applied,you'll broke one of the shaft's wings...take care.)
If you're not sure what,how and how much,ask your friendly neighbour/tech to do it for you.

Originally posted by mikejones62

 Looking at the circuit it is an op amp based simple circuit.

Originally posted by mikejones62

Unfortunately the markings have been scratched off the chip

Standard procedure for many manufacturers...but don't worry,AFAIK 15 years ago Washburn didn't use some exotic/hard to find IC's in their onboard preamps but,rather,some more common types.This means that you'll just have to identify the pinout (relatively easy) and,by wish,find a modern opamp with better qualities (faster/quieter/).
Originally posted by mikejones62

I'll try replacing the capacitors first as I know from experience they can be problematic.

If the preamp is completely dead (no hiss,parasitic noises,whatever coming from it) I'd let the caps alone for the eventual 2nd half of the party and go for an opamp replacement first.Most often,this is what to begin with (caps are not so prone to destruction in such preamps since the implied voltages are small-to-moderate).
Also,before any PCB work,please pay a close inspection of your battery contacts and output jack's wirings/contacts' integrity.
Don't want to patronize you but a faulty battery/jack contact are often neglected issues.[:D]

Hi Mike,
Sorry to hear about your onboard preamp's problems.
Unfortunately,I'm not aware of any available schematic of your pre (never saw a Status' innards) but,if it's an open PCB (as opposed to those modern,epoxy-sealed units)and the parts can be accessed,it might be perfectly doable from a experienced tech's point of view.There's no rocket sience here:most commonly,it's only a J-FET or opamp-based tonestack that could be easily reverse-engineered and fixed.
If you cannot find a qualified person for a repair job or a tech's costs seem too high/unjustifiable for your budget,I'd reccomend the replacement of the entire preamp.You said that 145-something (Euros?US Dollars?UK Pounds? browser didn't show correctly the letter) can't justify.I'd say,get serious and do a correct evaluation of what you have.The Status 1000 is a HELLUVA great bass in terms of wood AND construction.Just take a look on the vas majority of newer axes and you'll see what I'm talking about.Also,an 18-years old instrument is a stabilised one,as opposed to most newer basses whose CNC-ed,fast-dried necks should play havoc for years to come.
Also,the idea of ripping the dead preamp out and leaving the Status 1000 passive is an option,but such an instrument would benefit more of an active config,as opposed to,say,a Fender JazzBass.
Bottom line:if I were you,I'd try to repair the original preamp,or I'd go for a major electronics' upgrade (including PU's,maybe?).
No matter the prices' range and/or the Internet rumours and gossips,please DON'T look at some cheap Aguilar or similar,but look at this:
They have some distributers in Germany so it shouldn't be any problem.
The quality of Noll preamps is the very best your money can buy (clever configurations,audiophile-grade components).

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / XB-120 push/pull pot?
« on: February 12, 2008, 05:12:27 AM »
Originally posted by Jaeger

Is the switch there just in case your battery dies, or am I missing something?

That's a tech reason.Always handy in case you forgot months ago to regularily check the battery.Aside of that,some players consider the onboard preamp as unecessary and prefer their PUs in passive mode.

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / bass crackles
« on: February 12, 2008, 01:41:14 AM »
Unsoldered/broken wires are a fairly common issue,amps,etc.
What do you mean by bare wire and covered it?
Please post a pic or two of the electronics' hole in your bass and we'll eventually be able to determin what happened and how can it be fixed (usually,re-soldering the free wire is the cure but we'll have to establish precisely WHERE that bare wire should be soldered...I suspect a PU's grounding problem but I have to be sure by seeing a photo).

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Vadis Amplifier
« on: February 06, 2008, 09:57:43 AM »
Is your amp similar to this?
Sorry for asking questions instead of giving answers but,frankly,I never heard of Vadis,except for a French brand with the same name wich makes Hi-Fi tube amps.
However....bass drivers for instrument amplification are a category of their own so I'll suggest to take a look at some Eminence specifications:
In another words,I'm not sure what drivers did you looked at but I hope that you'll not buy some automotive or Hi-Fi drivers for your guitar boxes.
Assuming that your Vadis is a GUITAR amp,then no matter the drivers' wattage,don't count that the amp will play very well above,say,20W or so,because of the smallish output transformer (OK for guitar BUT underrated for bass).Instead of pushing your luck,sell the Vadis and buy a dedicated bass head amp.

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / B20 FORCE ABT
« on: February 05, 2008, 03:46:14 PM »
Do a search in older posts in this forum's section,AFAIK I responded to a similar issue a while ago (I mean the DIPs).
For a bridge replacement,I suggest BadAss II,Gotoh or ABM,whatever suits your taste.
For the PU's,it's somewhat harder to give an advice,there are alot of good PUs out there...what kind of music do you play? some useful readings here,I'm sure you'll find your answers:
Alot of good infos!

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / Active Bass: Battery Heats up fast
« on: December 29, 2007, 03:14:42 PM »
It's a classic one...
Something's wrong with the wiring,altough you say you checked it...look at the entire wiring one more time,using a voltmeter or,wit the battery decoupled,an ohmmeter in search for a short of some kind.If nothing shows up at the first glance,then something hidden is incorrecly wired (wrong factory assembly) and you'd want to consult a more qualified person.

Discuss Basses and Bass Playing / WTB
« on: December 26, 2007, 02:39:33 PM »
Rondos are OK for what they cost.
All the best,

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