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Messages - RW James

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1
quote:
Originally posted by psiho18

I tried raising the G-string saddle, still buzzed, it turned out to be the nut. Thanks anyway for your replies, they've been useful.



One end or the other... makes sense.

Glad you found the solution.

2
First: Switch tips and strap pins are cheap and easy to replace.  Even if the whole switch is broken, it's not that big of deal to replace.

I play Crates and I like them - but they do have a life expectancy, so not knowing how old this amp is or how much it's been played - it's kind of hard to tell if it's worth it.  But it seems like a reasonable price.

I've never played a Zoom, but I've heard good things about them.

If you can play and/or hear the setup, and everything seems to work properly, this might be a good deal.

3
Are you talking about the WI14?

Anyway, bridge pickups are typically wound hotter than neck pickups.  This is due the decreased string travel in the bridge position.

Having said that, some people have successfully put bridge pickups in the neck position - but all else being equal it will be louder than the bridge pickup.  Some things that can be done to compensate for that would be to lower the pickup, or even better just turn the neck volume down.

4
quote:
Originally posted by Wayno

...If you buy new ones then the Tone'Pot probably should be an audio taper model .
                   ......the Volume Pot ,I will assume to belinear tapermodal .


I've always read just the opposite - Vol should be audio taper and Tone might be linear - but I did notice that Washburn put a linear taper on my Idol's Vol.

Personally, I use audio taper for both and that works fine for me.

As for the depth of the cavity - Stew Mac http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Potentiometers_and_push-pull_pots/3/Potentiometers_and_Push-Pull_Pots.html says you need at least 1-1/8 body cavity depth.

Hope that helps

5
quote:
Originally posted by psiho18

So that's how they should be? And if I raise the saddle on the G string, should I raise the saddles on the other strings too, or should I leave them the way they are now?


Well, you can and should adjust each saddle to get the best sound and action for every string.  For instance, I have raised one string slightly to eliminate a fret buzz - without adjusting the other saddles.  But generally, yeah, as a rule they should follow the radius of the neck.


6
quote:
Originally posted by psiho18

I did some setup/intonation stuff, I'm pretty satisfied with it, but I have another question: should all saddles be at the same height, or should they be at different heights? Right now the middle of the bridge is higher, and the two sides are a bit lower (something like this, but barely visible: ^ )

They do that to match the radius of the fretboard - check it out.

7
From what I've read, and from my personal experience - the quality of caps in the volume kit is insignificant.  But when used with the tone control, quality makes a big difference.  I use Orange Drops in my tone (good balance of quality and price).  Radio Shack is fine for the volume kit.

8
Silent,
Thanks for the schematic.  If I read it right, at one end of the pot's travel the coils are parallel and at the other end they are in series - as mrmudcat said.  That makes it a lot clearer.  Probably an improvement over the spin-a-split or just a coil tap in that both coils are working.  The only question would be is you really need the variance between the extremes - and are you gaining enough to offset the loss of a tone control?

And Drefen, I've used that volume kit from Acme and I love it.  I intend to use it on all future mods.

9
General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / SHWEET Looking X-50
« on: June 19, 2007, 12:00:13 PM »
quote:
Originally posted by bigoldron

quote:
Oh yeah, and stop telling everyone of these. how am I supposed to get a good deal when everyone knows?


Sorry, Chaos, didn't mean to crimp your style. I do a lot of window shopping on Ebay and when I see a good deal, I like to share with you guys. If I can't get it, I'd rather some of the Washburn gang get it.

But, if you insist... [;)]


I for one enjoy the heads up.  I'll probably never buy one (I don't like e-bay) but I always enjoy window shopping.  Keep 'em coming

10
quote:
Originally posted by jaysongc

...The volume pots were linear pots not audio taper...

When I rewired my WI14 I was kind of surprised that the volume pots were linear.  I assumed it was because it was a cheap guitar and/or somebody grabbed the wrong parts out of the bin.  

Now I'm wondering... is this a standard for Idols?  Kind of odd.

11
mrmudcat,

I suspect Welby is referring to me as the self-proclaimed expert (though I never said I was).  I presented the spin-a-split schematic from the Seymour Duncan site as a possible explanation of what VCC does - which enables you to dial from full humbucker to single coil (that is only one coil engaged) - which seemed to match the description Washburn offers.  I hadn't considered the series-to-parallel concept that you described.

I apologize if I have misled anyone.  But in all honesty, no one from Washburn has ever come here and explained what VCC does and Welby really didn't offer any further information other than to point out that I was wrong.

12
When I rewired my Idol I bought a kit from Acme Guitar Works
http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/ELECTRONIC_PARTS_C1.cfm
I am very pleased with their products and service.

13
General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Electric question
« on: June 14, 2007, 08:57:05 AM »
A lot depends on how much work you want to put into it.

First, if the neck and body are in good shape, EVERYTHING ELSE can be replaced.

Second, if the tuning keys and bridge look good and work smoothly, then you may want to change the electronics down the road.

Most likely the pots and switch will have to be replaced someday.  The pickups could be all right - but you can't tell that until you plug it in and play it.

The strings should definitely be replaced.

Finally, I'm not a fan of name brands, especially these days, a lot of good cheap guitars are being made (a lot of junk is being made as well).  My feeling is, if the neck feels good, and there are no cracks or warps in any of the wood, it can be made to play well.

Let us know what you find out.

And take a digital camera with you.

14
Glad to hear it all worked out for you.

Your tech's assessments of Gibson Gretch are spot on it seems.  A friend of mine just bought a Gretch White Falcon - a beautiful guitar and sounds as good as it looks.  But he has several thousand in it.  Great if you can afford it.  I would be afraid to take it out of the house.


15
General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Vinci strings
« on: June 13, 2007, 09:00:36 AM »
ARISE FROM THE DEAD - THREAD OF OLD!

I started this thread over a year ago... wow!

Thanks for the tip Chaos Rex... but I no longer have that bridge - I replaced it several months ago with a roller bridge.

However, as I recall, the notches were all the same size - and I have seen several TOM bridges with the saddles split 3+3 - I think it's very common (generally you want the lower strings further back than the higher strings).  As for which way the screws go, it's a matter of convenience, but most agree they should go toward the back.

The roller bridge is really a dream and takes care of all the problems.

I still don't like Vinci strings - but I guess it's okay if other people love 'em.

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