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Messages - Tony Raven

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General Discussion / Re: The Eternal Question
« on: January 06, 2019, 02:16:40 PM »
Another bump.

Five bucks on Amazon.

Less than a buck on eBay. [url][/url

If I was going to start someone out right, I'd find a good used D-10S, preferably well-played. Get something that is a literal "kick around" guitar, where you don't have to worry about it getting knocked over (dogs, cats, children, drunken roommates, clumsy girlfriend...) and can keep it handy. If it's already got its share of scratches & gouges, you'll be more likely to PLAY it rather than being concerned about maintaining its value.

Find one with Grover tuners. They last almost forever; when they don't, Grover says they'll replace 'em for free. (I got a new set six years ago. All it cost was postage to send them the old set.)

People make a big thing about building fingertip callouses. That's largely nonsense. If a beginner's fingers hurt significantly, it's almost always due to three factors --
  • the strings are too high, & a setup should be done
  • the strings are much too thin, in the mistaken notion that "lighter strings are easier to play" (see #1) when actually they're much harder to keep in tune & to not sharp by fretting too hard (see #3); on my electrics, I prefer .010 or .011 sets, which many acoustic owners would consider too heavy!
  • the player is clutching the neck as though attempting to strangle it, with resultant strain to fingers, wrist, elbow, shoulder, & back; lay off the barre chords awhile & work instead on playing simple single-note exercises & melodies

Well, overlooking that this post is mostly an underhanded way of sneaking your ad in... ::)

Yes, Washburns tend to be among the most reliable inexpensive guitars on the market. Their quality control can be irregular but is generally good. I often use the word workmanlike.

If you absolutely must have a new guitar, it's likely to need initial adjustment (nut, neck, bridge), which ought to be done by a skilled repair tech if you've never done it yourself.

Used guitars are often a much better value. The instrument has already been "broken in," nothing is falling off, and some adjustment has likely been done. Basic Washburn acoustics with "solid wood" tops (D-10S, D-11S, D-12S, etc.) are so common that prices are low, often significantly less than a new guitar, and years later can be resold for what you paid if you decide to move along or upgrade.

General Discussion / Re: When did the Yairi factory burn down?
« on: January 06, 2019, 01:16:57 PM »
I am not aware that either Yairi company has ever suffered a catastrophic fire.

The Matsumoku factory burned in 1988. The company had gone bankrupt in 1987.

General Discussion / Re: The End of Nature and Guitar Woods‏
« on: January 06, 2019, 01:11:01 PM »
Seeing as the TROLL has dredged this back up, I wish to examine the notion.

I am a wild-eyed radical, and have had my tree-hugger phases. However, this is kinda silly.

Very few guitars use wood from the Amazon rainforest. The few that do are generally very expensive. And in the past couple of years (since the original post), wood species that are endangered, or whose harvest clearly damages the local ecosystem, have become very tightly controlled.

Almost all commercial guitars are built exclusively from fast-growing and relatively light woods, the majority plantation grown (farmed).

While animals intake oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, plants do the reverse. Every harvested piece of lumber is an effective method of taking carbon atoms out of the air and binding them. Each finished guitar represents pollutants taken from the air and safely locked up.

General Discussion / ATTENTION, SITE ADMINS -- job application!!
« on: January 06, 2019, 12:54:00 PM »
Hi, my screen name (obviously) is Tony Raven. I have been around here for a few years.

Due largely to corporate indifference, constructive activity on this site continues to dwindle. A recent phenomenon has accelerated that decline: apparent humans who show up here under orders to "pretend to blend in" but salting their posts with "clickbait." While one or two seem to actually have some idea they're on a guitar-oriented site, almost all of them are clueless morons whose only purpose here is to collect a few pennies from blathering mindlessly and getting in the way of the few remaining guitar-loving adults.

I am applying for basic Moderator privileges, with the right to ban any account as I see fit, and to remove all posts that are irrelevant to the discussion or the site.

Thank you for your consideration.

Actually, the troll ios correct. :)

A darned good $200 axe, and maybe needing $100 in maintenance. Once again: if you are buying to PLAY, ya done good. If you hope to get rich... well... no.

Please ignore trolls. :P

If a trussrod is dead, you are not hosed... but fixing it can cost a couple hundred USD or require much effort from you. Though I am a qualified tech, I would have returned it if I had paid more than $50 (salvage value).

General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Re: HB35 serial number
« on: January 02, 2019, 11:44:09 PM »
Well, if you are not just being coy :)...

If a Washburn has less than seven digits in the serial number, I suspect Japan build. Is that num,ber on a paper tag? Help me out here, Team Washie, but would that not be a Gen One HB35?

Now, avoid overmuch excitement. :o Great guitars from Nippon, but not worth thousands of $$$ or anything. Buy to play.

Wow. Well, as much as I like the MGs, you could probably find yourself an X-40 or WI-64 for half that. The MGs are nice axes, buit are not gaining in value. (IMO, most Washburn should be bought to PLAY, not to make profit.)

Thank you, Dzigi.  :o I have been having computer problems, and am falling down badly at keeping up.  ::)

General Discussion on Washburn Electric Guitars / Re: Fake Washburn?
« on: November 25, 2018, 10:42:56 AM »
As the saying goes, "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses before zebras." :) Very few Washburn models are worth counterfeiting, & a fake would probably be MUCH flashier than that.

There's any number of reasons Washburn made one-off guitars, like a special order or a promo gift for a big store or distributor, or a "test bed" to see if a build would be suitable for manufacture, or to determine whether sales outlets would find it interesting. The BT-500 was part of an effort to "liquidate some parts and bodies we had left." (I wouldn't be surprised if Washburn let their employees build their own guitars at cost when they were off the clock.) There'd be no point in putting serial numbers on these.

Whether ANY electric guitar is "hand made" depends on how it's defined... & almost every time it's greatly exaggerated. Are power tools allowed? hand tools? Does using a CNC router to rough the body blank violate "hand made"? but what if the entire cavity shaping is done via CNC?

X Series / Re: guitar identification please!!
« on: November 24, 2018, 12:06:20 PM »
If you mean it's h-s-h, the only one I can think of offhand is the X-40.

X Series / Re: How many springs in a x-series Pro V 11
« on: November 24, 2018, 12:01:22 PM »
The claw screws are generally quite long. If you want to check, detune the strings completely & take one of the screws out.

You're on the right track, though. With a standard trem, more springs will stabilize the tuning, & you back the claw screws out to give the bridge some "float."

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